Redland Semi-Hydraulic Brakes

bikegangster
bikegangster Posts: 98
edited March 2017 in Road general
Has anyone has experiences of using these brakes before? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cable-Actuate ... 0975901992 Are they good or rubbish? They are manufactured from a company nobody's has heard about.

They're a lot cheaper than TRP semi's and Juin's as well. Problem is I messaged the seller on eBay some questions and he never answered. Things like does the brakes use mineral or DOT oil. Does the brakes come with an instruction manual that says how to install it and service it. Is it single or double piston? I'm sure nearly all hydraulic brakes are dual pistons but I just want to make sure.

My Giant Defy has TRP Spyres on them. And the braking power sucks. So I'm thinking about putting on some semi-hydraulics for more braking power. I can't afford TRP HY/RD nor the Juin Tech R1.

Comments

  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    I would try to sort out your Spyre, they are generally pretty good
    left the forum March 2023
  • johngti
    johngti Posts: 2,508
    Given how important braking is, I'd go with Ugo's advice and sort out the Spyres. And save up for something a bit more established (Juin get great reviews). £37 for a set of brakes seems like a false economy to me...
  • darkhairedlord
    darkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    if your brakes fail it can be catastophic, why risk it?
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    no brainer...
  • timothyw
    timothyw Posts: 2,482
    I did a brief post on my procedure for setting up Spyres here -
    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13073248#p20016834

    Still, part of me wants you to buy those ebay specials, to find out how catastrophically they go wrong or otherwise.

    The most obvious question that needs to be asked is surely what brake pads they take, as if it's some weird fitting that is impossible to find then they definitely aren't worth buying.

    If you do try them out, then swap just your rear brake first, and give it a good test run over a few hundred miles before you risk putting on the front brake also.
  • bendertherobot
    bendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    They look industrial and I'd not touch them.

    However, they do look very much like the Juin Tech and, on pads, those are XTR pad shapes.
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  • Cheers for the advice guys. When I get time I'll play with the Spyre settings. Then report back how it went.
  • vrsmatt
    vrsmatt Posts: 160
    Has anyone has experiences of using these brakes before? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cable-Actuate ... 0975901992 Are they good or rubbish? They are manufactured from a company nobody's has heard about.

    They're a lot cheaper than TRP semi's and Juin's as well. Problem is I messaged the seller on eBay some questions and he never answered. Things like does the brakes use mineral or DOT oil. Does the brakes come with an instruction manual that says how to install it and service it. Is it single or double piston? I'm sure nearly all hydraulic brakes are dual pistons but I just want to make sure.

    My Giant Defy has TRP Spyres on them. And the braking power sucks. So I'm thinking about putting on some semi-hydraulics for more braking power. I can't afford TRP HY/RD nor the Juin Tech R1.

    The Spyres are excellent when set up correctly. However I noticed that any contamination of the cable outers makes them feel a bit rough and theres more 'stiction in the lever movement.

    I have a 2015 Defy Advanced with Spyres and had a fall recently, damaging my shifter, i have replaced with RS-505 levers and 685 calipers, so full hydraulic. power is similar, lever feel is much nicer.

    I put up a workshop thread about the change as the rear brake outer run was a sod.
    Giant TCR Composite 1, Giant Defy Advanced 2, Boardman Comp, Santa Cruz Heckler, Raleigh M-Trax Ti, Strida LT, Giant Halfway
  • bendertherobot
    bendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    The Spyres are fine when working. There are flaws. Get some grit in the arm and that alters feel, ditto the outers as stated.

    But it's the pad mechanism that suffers most, that allen key bolt needs to be bigger to stop it rounding as the adjuster seizes easily in the wet.
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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  • Sorted it. Looked at Timothy's post for advice. And I've shortened the throw distance of the brake lever and braking is improved. I can nearly lock the rear wheel. ...Or if the brake pads has passed its bedding-in period. I don't know. I don't think I'll be needing hydraulic systems for now. Thanks.
  • ayjaycee
    ayjaycee Posts: 1,277
    I can nearly lock the rear wheel.
    Glad you are getting them sorted but I'm not sure that the ability to 'nearly lock the rear wheel' is a good reference point. That should be easy enough to achieve with any half decent brakes (including rim) but it's more about the modulation you get before they lock up. IMHO, you have made the right decision in not buying the those Redland things anyway. Not worth the risk.
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