Single speed tips

Greetings, All,
Having ridden road and cycle-cross bikes for a while I have just caved in to the n+1 rule and put a down payment on one of these:

While it's being imported from the USA, I thought I would swot up on the do's and dont's of single speed riding.
Here's where I am so far:
It's got a flip flop hub, but I will ride it as a single speed rather than a fixie as I don't fancy pedalling down the many hills around here.
It comes with flat and drop bars, but although the drops are sexier I will ride with the flat bars to give a more upright position so I can watch out for the multitude of deaf-blind pr!cks who dawdle all over the cycle lanes in this part of the world.
I will keep the flat pedals on to save unclipping.
Please feel free to share advice about riding single speeds, tips, information etc. I've already grown the hipster beard..
Cheers,
Steve
Having ridden road and cycle-cross bikes for a while I have just caved in to the n+1 rule and put a down payment on one of these:

While it's being imported from the USA, I thought I would swot up on the do's and dont's of single speed riding.
Here's where I am so far:
It's got a flip flop hub, but I will ride it as a single speed rather than a fixie as I don't fancy pedalling down the many hills around here.
It comes with flat and drop bars, but although the drops are sexier I will ride with the flat bars to give a more upright position so I can watch out for the multitude of deaf-blind pr!cks who dawdle all over the cycle lanes in this part of the world.
I will keep the flat pedals on to save unclipping.
Please feel free to share advice about riding single speeds, tips, information etc. I've already grown the hipster beard..
Cheers,
Steve
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It's soooo relaxing once you get into the flow - no need to worry about gears or owt, just get in a fluid pedalling motion and go.
More fun smashing geared bike heroes on a s/s.
Only a couple of mph cruising speed down on geared so just pedal faster.
I don't understand why if you ride a drop bike now you want to go to flats and normal pedals: s/s are just the same as a normal bike. Or am I missing something?
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
Likewise drops .... I use aero positions a lot more on my SS due to not being able to change gear to make life easier
Apart from that enjoy the simplicity and freedom .... my SS is my favourite of all my bikes
All that, and n+1, of course....
Planet X chain tugs are cheap and good (so far). Tad fiddle to fit but once on all tip top tasting.
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
Pardon my ignorance, but why might the back wheel slip forward?
I now have a Felt courier (light-ish Ali frame, carbon forks) but have dumped a couple of kilo through use of Chinese carbon seat and seat post, sales bin FSA full carbon stem and some carbon bars from somewhere. Also dumped front sprocket Gide, slammed the stem, a few other bits.
All easily done for under £80 and saves a ton of weight.
It's also got 4 spoke carbon Spinergy tubs but only because I had them lying around: Carbonzone carbon tubs at £150 would be lighter if you went that route. Make yourself a gorgeous retromod bike with that frame. Big fat carbon rims, tan walls ... Pwhooooaaarrrr.
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
Horizontal drop outs means that as you pedal forward the whole thing gets pulled forward. You tighten or loosen your chain by moving it forwards and backwards.
It's a nothing so long as you do your back wheel up properly - chain tugs also minmise this and keep chain tension. 14mm socket so it doesn't slip, do it up FT. Job jobbed.
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
The bike is a Fuji Feather - steel frame and fork, 46 tooth chainring with 16 tooth rear cog. I assume that will do for general pottering about. Claimed weight is about 10.3kg, but I don't know what size that is for - I'll be on a large frame.
If you can, track down one that comes with the Felt courier: one end spanner, one end bottle opener
Alternatively, cheap small ratchet with 14mm socket - smaller than equivalent spanner. Don't go opennded if you can as it'll slip. I presume there is an equivalent of B&Q or Halfords out your way: that sort of stuff is fine for occasional home mechanicing.
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
Thanks for the advice,
Steve
Then find something to smash with a hammer and chuck in next door's garden and jobs a fish.
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
Thanks, Matt. I had a look online and it seems pretty simple to tension the chain, but I don't want to be doing it every week so I think tugs will be fitted to save hassle.
Steve
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
This sounds very encouraging. I doubt I will be able to devote the time that you do but if it improves my pedalling and strength that will be great.
Thanks also, Matt, for the information and advice.
Please feel free to add anything else relevant, although I get the impression the beauty of the ss is its simplicity...
Cheers,
Steve
I hear you, but maybe make it part of a commute ? I realised that riding the bike 10-25 miles 5 days a week is better than one long sloggish ride once a weekend weather pending. I have also learnt about rest as I have got older. If I do 50 miles on a Tuesday on Wednesday I stay off the bike. You'll enjoy it for sure.
Cheers,
Steve
I quite fancy trying one as a winter bike but live in North Wales so hilly.
All the marketing for them seeems aimed @ urban hipster types, & they mostly seem low spec & have heavy wheelsets unless you pay alot.
Apart from the "ride fixed" and "go clipless" advice that seems like it wouldn't work for you I would recommend some big canvas straps for easy foot retention, even on SS it helps. The gear should be fine, you'll struggle at first on hills but get used to it quickly.
The best tug available is the Surly Tugnut. Two reasons: 1) It has bottle openers on it. 2) You tighten it with your fingers. Most of the tugs need a spanner or allen key to tighten it and if you have to fix a puncture it's an added pain. The Surly can just be unwound with your fingers and adds 30 seconds tops to the wheel change. And because it's done with your fingers it's much easier to operate with gloves on in the cold and wet.
Personally I would fit the drop bars. The levers are top levers so you can ride on the tops when people are about, then you can use the drops when out in the quiet/on the roads.
To me the beauty of riding fixed is that riding takes second place to the scenery/experience out on the road. On my geared bike I'm always looking for the next gear, wanting to push on and go quicker etc. On my fixed wheel I look around me and appreciate where I am. You almost forget about riding the bike because your legs just keep turning at a cadence to match the road and you brake naturally anyway like on a geared bike (I always run two brakes, even riding fixed). The silence of a fixed wheel drive train is magical as well. Nothing beats cruising along rolling country lanes with only the sound of the wind and the wildlife surrounding you.
I've ridden in North Wales a fair bit. For getting out and riding I would use either an 81" (48x16) or a 74" (47x17) gear depending where I was going. I did the 120km route of the first RiseAbove Sportive and the 165km route of the second RiseAbove Sportive on that gear. The only point I had to get off and push was on the bits of Penbarras that many were pushing on anyway. I rode it fixed, but some of the descents weren't much fun. Each time included the Horseshoe from Llangollen and lots of other ramps and steep stuff.
Unfortunately the cost is a little higher than road bikes. The units shifted are lower making manufacturing costs higher and yes, there is definitely a hipster scene that many brands are trying to milk. If you can get hold of a frame you are much better off building up a bike yourself. Bare in mind that the parts aren't really that much cheaper. A decent set of wheels will be similar to road bike wheels, as will a decent crank/pedals, but the drive chain is significantly cheaper. Even the frames are pretty much the same price as a road bike frame of a similar spec.
Get yourself on LFGSS forum. They are not limited to London and there are loads of good bikes on there for sale. If you want new stick up a thread with a budget.
I live in Devon and ride some hills with 48 x 16. The odd hill a bit of a gurn, but I use it to train for the geared bike. If you want to you can run 17,18 - what ever suits your terrain and strength based on inches.
I got mine from charlierthebikemonger. It will depend what your import laws are I guess but he's good at answering questions so worth an ask if you want one and are struggling.
I live in hilly South Wales and ride the stock 48 x 17 that came on my Langster (75" or so) and I'm no massive legged grinder. That's good for 28mph or so downhill and I get up a 5-10% mile long climb on my commute OK. Did a 100 mile audax in January on it, OK one of the flatter ones in the calendar, it's just a fun bike to be on.
Up to a point it doesn't really matter what ratio is on your bike, you've got to ride the hills whatever. I find myself choosing routes by gradient rather than destination.
To the OP - your use case sounds a bit different to mine (& everyone elses) I can't imagine riding on flats though, half the fun of the bike is hammering it up short sharp climbs and I wouldn't do that on flats. It's got drops too - you'll be standing up alot, I climb much better on the drops, though some here swear by bullhorn type bars.
I only went for P/X ones as they were the only ones I could find to fit Q/R - I'd trust HCC advice re Surley.
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
The Surly ones will fit a QR, they come with an insert. However with a QR I'd probably want to run two and then the Tuggnut becomes expensive and I might consider the P/X ones.
I'm a averagely fit 50yr old and find 48:18 is a good compromise for being able to get up hills and not spinning out too soon on the flat.
I use to ride fixed gear, but have changed to freewheel so that I can coast down hill.
It's not dramatically different from riding a geared bike... basically it boils down to having to spin very fast on occasions and very slow on others, whereas with gears you can adjust your cadence