RT3 Monarch

fil_b
fil_b Posts: 34
edited February 2017 in MTB general
Hi

I have a Nukeproof Mega Tr with the RT3 Monarch

I was looking into locking it off for when I go i canals but it doesn't really lock

Searching seems to be a common thing with them

Some say go up to the RP23. Is that still a good way to go or any other options?

Thanks

Phil

Comments

  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    only a few cheap end shocks actually lock out. you can get the shock retuned to give more pedal platform
  • JGTR
    JGTR Posts: 1,404
    If it's the same as my Monarch, it doesn't actually lock, just stiffens up.
  • Even most air forks don't really "lock", they just stiffen to the point where they're very hard to compress, but they still compress nevertheless under enough pressure.
    If you're concerned about pedalling efficiency, increasing the air pressure increases the effectiveness of the lockout. The obvious downside is having more pressure than what you want to have. Plus I've no idea how much effect it has on a rear shock.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Not sure what planet Garry is on, the 'lockout' is in the damper and not the spring so spring type isn't relevant, on Forks for example the damper and lockout is identical on the same family whether it's air or coil.

    On anything but cheap and nasty parts the 'lockout' isn't a lock at all, it just increases the damping significantly to provide a pedal platform, some have an adjustable platform such as Rockshox RLT/XLoc or Manitou SPV, others it's fixed on (most rear shocks) and in some applications could do with a retune to work as well as it could as the suspension manufacturer will only offer 2 or 3 options and the bike manufacturer will pick one they think is best (and may not always be, or at least not always be for a particular rider).

    Increasing the air pressure (Spring rate) will back up the damper but you have to add quite a bit to add significantly to a damping force that is typically 1 or 2 times the spring force (as pedal platform, not over lumps and bumps where it can be as much as 4-5 times)
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie wrote:
    Not sure what planet Garry is on, the 'lockout' is in the damper and not the spring so spring type isn't relevant, on Forks for example the damper and lockout is identical on the same family whether it's air or coil.

    What are you on about? Firstly, fork lockout not being in the spring - thanks for pointing that out but...where exactly in my post did i claim otherwise? I've actually been through damper problems a few days ago, it's in the Workshop subforum.
    On cheap coil forks, the lockout actually locks, preventing the fork from compressing beyond a certain point. The crap thing about that is that the forks can still actually go a little bit up, so it'll feel really weird. I had that on my old bike, that's why I said "most air forks", because I'm not keeping up with every single manufacturer out there and cannot be sure whether someone is or isn't implementing that into their air forks. I did so specifically to avoid being called out on that bit but guess what - there's someone who's gonna call me out on that anyways.
    Always nice to know there's people here who will correct you, even if you're not saying anything wrong.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Well as its nothing to do with the spring, no need to mention air forks. Air (v coil or elastomer) is irrelevant when it comes to lockouts and your post suggests coil forks may well have a mechanical lockout regardless of spring.

    Instead of air forks, 'better quality forks' would have worked perfectly? Plus using 'even' in front is misleading as the better forks aren't meant to 'lock' out while cheaper ones are.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    On the Mega TR you really need a very good shock to get the rather crude rear suspension working well. I hated the Monarch RT3 on my old Mega TR. It's really harsh over high frequency, small bumps.
    There is no shock of this quality or better with a lock out. However, there are more efficient pedalling shocks. The Cane Creek DB Inline (coil preferably) is an extremely good match for the Mega TR and helps it pedal a lot better. Cane Creek's pedal platform closes both the low speed rebound and compression damper circuits where other shocks only close the low speed compression. The Cane Creek Inline absolutely transforms the rear suspension and makes the bike work properly as a real hardcore short travel enduro bike.
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    I'm not really that impressed either with the RT3 shock on my mega tr but cant complain as got the frame for a bargain price. Have you tried putting more air into the shock or playing about with the rebound setting when your just doing canal rides. I cant say I've noticed much pedal bob even if I've forgot to put the shock into lock out.

    I've looked at crane creek and also rockshox monarch plus rc3 as replacements but really you would be best with a coil shock on the bike for better performance something like the db inline coil shock from cane creek is recommended.
  • fil_b
    fil_b Posts: 34
    ok

    i cant afford a new one but i will look if a used one will come up thats worth buying

    Thanks

    Phil
  • fil_b
    fil_b Posts: 34
    just found a Cane Creek DBAir Line - is this the air version of the coil?

    tar

    Phil