Very tight Swissstop pads

mitchgixer6

Hi all

Bought some Swissstop pads (Flash pro) to try out on the good bike for the new season. Just tried fitting them to my callipers (6800) and I've had to give up! So tight I can't get them in far enough to allow me to tighten the security bolt.

Anyone else found this and maybe have some advice to get them in? I'm going to be swapping them between bikes, but at this rate that's not going to be possible.

Thanks

sungod

assuming they're the right way around...

a bit of water on them may ease insertion

failing that, go for a gentle ride on quiet, level, road, apply brakes, it should ram them home

mercia_man

Clean the inside of the holders thoroughly, use something to lubricate the back and sides of the pad, such as spit, water, isopropyl alcohol or WD40, and push in with a screwdriver. Just a tiny smear of WD40 has worked for me. But don't use too much - for obvious reasons. I've also taken the holder off and used a vice to push in stiff pads.

mitchgixer6

Thanks for the tips. Sounds like I'll not be able to swap them out very easily though. Might just have to run with standard pads when using the wheels on the TT bike.

Will give those methods a bash tomorrow.

Matthewfalle

mitchgixer6 wrote:

Thanks for the tips. Sounds like I'll not be able to swap them out very easily though. Might just have to run with standard pads when using the wheels on the TT bike.

Will give those methods a bash tomorrow.

Any reason why you want to change just the pads between bikes and the not pad holders and pads?

mitchgixer6

Yes. On one bike I have standard holders all round, on the other bike I have a direct mount rear brake which has upside down holders, so would need to swap pads at least for the rear caliper.

964cup

Liquid handsoap is the answer; also for Campag pads and for recalcitrant tyres. The advantage of soap as a lubricant is that it works better than plain water, but washes off and won't contaminate pads or brake tracks.

Matthewfalle

mitchgixer6 wrote:

Yes. On one bike I have standard holders all round, on the other bike I have a direct mount rear brake which has upside down holders, so would need to swap pads at least for the rear caliper.

Ah - that makes sense.

I'm sure 964 is right but beware some soaps - they act as a glue when dry (as when using Fairy liquid to fit motorbike handlebar grips).

Tad of silicon lubricant may do the job as well - my gut feeling is that you don't want something drying off otherwise you won't be able to get the buggers out again.

mitchgixer6

Thanks again for the advice.

Will try again tomorrow to get them in properly. Think once I do get them in I'll just swap pads and holders round between bikes for the front, and just use standard pads in the rear on the direct mount caliper.

I've got some new wheels so was wanting to try the Swiss stop in order to limit rim wear as much as possible. The direct mount caliper is on my TT bike, so should get away with minimal use of the back brake on that while training!

svetty

You don't want to be doing much braking during TTs - not sure the marginal difference in braking warrants the hassle of swapping back and forth.

mitchgixer6

Managed to get them in much better today with a little bit of GT85 in behind the pads. They're not fully home but in enough to allow the tightening of the security bolt.

I'm not too fussed about the extra braking power from the Swissstops, was more really to try and limit the wear to the rims of my new wheels. I have carbon wheels for racing on my TT bike so need to swap pads about anyway when using standard rims for training. Usually when training on the TT bike I use 'normal' roads which round here are quite rolling, so decent braking is more of a requirement compared to race conditions.

964cup

I'd want to be very careful about using any kind of non-water-soluble lubricant when fitting pads. It's not as bad as getting oil or grease on discs and disc-brake pads, but you still want to avoid contaminating the pad or rim if you can. I don't think the "glue" property of soap is an issue with (rim-brake) pads as you don't slide them out - you lever them out.

mitchgixer6

Indeed. I only used a very small amount on the inside of the holder. That wouldn't penetrate the rubber on the pad would it?

ayjaycee

I've used the same Swisstops recently in Tektro, Tiagra, 105 5800 and Ultegra 6800 brakes and, yes, they can be a bit tight but nothing that a bit of force wouldn't sort out (and I am talking about using fingers to force them rather than tools!). Assuming the metal cartridges are clean inside, a slight smear of silicone grease on either the inside of the cartridge or back of the blocks would probably work wonders (and help getting them out when you need to as well). I say silicone grease as I do not believe that could do any harm to the rubber compound of the blocks. As mentioned elsewhere though, take care not to contaminate either the rim of front of the blocks.
964Cup - We all have different experiences but I have never, ever had to 'lever' a pad out of a cartridge - they have always slid out with a bit of pressure and IMHO levering them out seems a bit extreme.

Matthewfalle

Agree - the only time I've ever levered a pad out is when they are jazzed up, otherwise either finger pressure or big screwdriver and slide them out.

Mitch - the small bottles of silicon lube you get with Arai visors are perfect for this remember not to apply with paintbrush, just finger.

964cup

ayjaycee wrote:

964Cup - We all have different experiences but I have never, ever had to 'lever' a pad out of a cartridge - they have always slid out with a bit of pressure and IMHO levering them out seems a bit extreme.

Come round and try to push the pads out of my SR (or Chorus) pad holders, I dare you...it takes all the strength in my fingers *and* liquid soap to get the pads in, so it's vastly easier to put a screwdriver between pad and holder at the back and lever them out than it is to try to get purchase to push them out.

Shimano are much easier, sure.

mercia_man

Glad OP managed to get pads in eventually. A little bit of GT85/WD40 smeared on the inside of holder won't contaminate rim or pad braking surface. I agree with 964Cup - I lever old pads out with screwdriver.

sheffsimon

I wouldn't bother with the security screws. Braking forces the pads in and they're very unlikely to drop out as this thread illustrates. The screws are a pig to remove once corroded.

rnath

Just smear a dab of grease on the back of the pad. Obviously just a small amount, and keep well away from the business end of the pad.