Headset bearing races

Moonbiker
Moonbiker Posts: 1,706
edited February 2017 in Workshop
Hi I have this headset on my CX a ridley x bow (a pretty common bike) & there loads of play that won't tighten with the top cap screw so I could do with a new headset I think or new races/cups & bearingss

Its this heasdset

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/ ... t-z-41-cx/

For a 48 OD headtube

Trouble is can't find any for sale any more

Some one else already had the same issue:

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic ... earing-cup

Any idea or is a metal lathe the only way forwards?

Could you really lathe say the cups from this

http://fsa-4207.kxcdn.com/wp-content/up ... -CC-CX.pdf

to down to the right size to fit:

Comments

  • jermas
    jermas Posts: 484
    The press in cups are unlikely to be worn so I'd leave them in place. Buy a new headset with the same size bearings as the old one- then just replace the crown race and bearings.
    Before that I'd strip the existing headset and check the condition of the bearings and races. Also check that the bung (if it's a carbon steerer) is tight and is not being pulled up when adjusting the pre-load.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    You are loosening the stem clamp bolts before faffing with the topcap I assume?

    +1 ^ Being unable to remove play from a headset by tightening the topcap suggests that you don't have enough clearance between the underside of the topcap and the steerer tube. This more likely because the bung or star nut is moving up the steerer than the bearings disintegrating to the extent they are introducing play
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    Take it fully apart, clean and re-fit with a good quality grease. Even if the bearings are pitted you should be able to eliminate play by tightening the topcap - assuming the bung/starnut is placed correctly and the upper bearing cover isn't fouling on the top of the head-tube.
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • Moonbiker
    Moonbiker Posts: 1,706
    Buy a new headset with the same size bearings as the old one- then just replace the crown race and bearings.

    I did this and bearing cups were the wrong size. OD of cups was 0.5mm bigger than on the tech diagram for the headset.

    41.5mm not 41mm so they would not fit.

    Original headset:

    http://fsa-4207.kxcdn.com/wp-content/up ... .41-CX.pdf

    New one I bough to use cups from: (from CRC)

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobi ... prod139513
    http://fsa-4207.kxcdn.com/wp-content/up ... _CC-CX.pdf


    Theese are the bearings:

    http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/ ... -bearings/


    Anyone know what the different colour seals mean?


    So I have repacked grease in the original top bearing (water had got in) play has now gone, but it now feels abit rough when turning the bars, when before it felt smooth.

    Hoping it will get smoother with abit of use/milage?

    If not I might buy another bearing & hope its actaully the size quoted this time....
  • jermas
    jermas Posts: 484
    edited February 2017
    Yup, headset standards are a pain! Looking at the tech docs, the bearings should've fitted -they even have the same part number.
    Anyhow, the link you posted to the FSA bearings is correct 36x45 - 41x30.2x6.5. The colour of the seal indicates the quality/material (steel or stainless or ceramic) of the bearing, but I wouldn't worry about it.
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,217
    OP, this company supply headset bearings
    http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Produc ... index.html

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