Picking a power meter

pirnie

I know there are a bunch of threads out there already on this topic, but my current set of bikes has left me in an awkward position as to what the best power meter to pick is. I'd like to go dual sided as I feel like left only power has limitations (changing leg ratios at different powers etc). I have 2 bikes and would really like to be able to use the setup on both bikes. They are currently set up as:

Winter bike/turbo bike: Shimano 3 x 9spd and I can't put an 11spd cassette on the rear hub
Summer Bike: Campagnolo 2 x 11spd

Both using Look pedals.

As I see it the best choice is to go for a pedal based system, but there are drawbacks with both of them:

Garmin Vector 2:- There still seems to be some questions about consistency of readings after install. Also the 90kg weight limit is a concern since if I get lazy and get a bit above race weight I can easily slide into the 90s.

Powertap P1:- More expensive than the vectors in the UK, and cleat compatibility is a concern since as far as I can tell, you have to use the P1 speicific cleats, Look cleats don't work, which means I would need to change cleats on all my shoes and if I didn't want to use the P1 get a different set of pedals to use that would work with their cleats (I'm not keen on switching cleats since getting them in the wrong place gives me knee issues).

Alternatively, I could go crank based, but as far as I can tell the only way to do that would involve changing the groupset (and possibly the back hub) on the winter bike making it an expensive option, and switching the power meter between bikes would be harder.

These are the options I have come up with so far. At the moment I'm leaning towards the Vector 2 but I was wondering if anyone had any insight into what they'd pick in my situation? Or any options I haven't considered? Cheers in advance!

alex222

Will be worth looking at the DC Rainmaker website. In depth reviews on most of the power meters.
http://www.dcrainmaker.com

timothyw

What about an old school wheel based power meter?

If it has an 11 speed shimano freehub then you can use a shimano/sram cassette with your 2x11 campag bike, then swap to 9 speed shimano cassette with a spacer for the other bike.

Can be had pretty cheap eg ex rental stock here http://www.cyclepowermeters.com/sale.html - although I'm not sure those have 11 speed freehubs.

Other options than those you've already identified are rather limited because you have a triple chainset on your 3x9 - if you changed that for a double (or just upgraded to a 2x10/2x11 group on that bike) then it would open up quite a few other options for crank based powermeters that would work with both bikes.

Other option is the somewhat unconventional powerpod -
https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2016/03/pow ... eview.html

I have one, and I'm basically happy with it, but the big issue for me is that I find it hard to fit intervals or other power based training sessions into my commute - too busy dodging traffic and staying alive - and I have limited riding time outside that. Still, I've only had it for a few Winter months, during which most of my proper training has been on the turbo anyway (where pseudo power can basically suffice).

bigmat

I'm in a similar situation, looking for a power meter to use with my Campag bikes. Don't fancy hub based as I would like to be able to use it on TT bike, training bike, race bike therefore with a range of wheels. Crank based cheapest option is stages at £750 so I have been looking at pedal based. Best options seem to be Garmin Vector 2, but also the Favero Bepro get decent reviews and might fit your requirements?

redvision

pirnie wrote:

As I see it the best choice is to go for a pedal based system, but there are drawbacks with both of them:

Garmin Vector 2:- There still seems to be some questions about consistency of readings after install. Also the 90kg weight limit is a concern since if I get lazy and get a bit above race weight I can easily slide into the 90s.

Powertap P1:- More expensive than the vectors in the UK, and cleat compatibility is a concern since as far as I can tell, you have to use the P1 speicific cleats, Look cleats don't work, which means I would need to change cleats on all my shoes and if I didn't want to use the P1 get a different set of pedals to use that would work with their cleats (I'm not keen on switching cleats since getting them in the wrong place gives me knee issues).

Avoid the p1's.
I'm now on my 7th set. The build quality & bearings are complete and utter shite!

pirnie

Thanks for the replies. Already a fan of DCR's website, but thanks for the recommendation.

Hub based is an interesting idea I hadn't really considered. At the moment I don't run lots of wheelsets and changing a cassette isn't any harder than switching pedals over. Thanks for that!

The powerpod not working on the turbo is a bit of a limiter for me unfortunately, since I do a fair bit of indoor training and I'd rather have consistent data.

I had looked at the bepros, but to me the position of the pods looks awkward. It just looks like the shoes will catch on the pods (I run my cleats so my shoes are almost rubbing on my cranks already). Also the bespoke installation tools put me off slightly, at least a torque wrench for the vectors is a universal tool (and I already have one)

redvision wrote:

Avoid the p1's.
I'm now on my 7th set. The build quality & bearings are complete and utter shite!

Reports of this are one of the reasons for leaning towards garmin!

gethinceri

Don't write off the Bepros too quick, the fitting really os very simple once you "get it" and you can shim up your cleats to avoid them rubbing. Contact Bepro for advice on the shims in advance perhaps.

jheg

redvision wrote:

pirnie wrote:

As I see it the best choice is to go for a pedal based system, but there are drawbacks with both of them:

Garmin Vector 2:- There still seems to be some questions about consistency of readings after install. Also the 90kg weight limit is a concern since if I get lazy and get a bit above race weight I can easily slide into the 90s.

Powertap P1:- More expensive than the vectors in the UK, and cleat compatibility is a concern since as far as I can tell, you have to use the P1 speicific cleats, Look cleats don't work, which means I would need to change cleats on all my shoes and if I didn't want to use the P1 get a different set of pedals to use that would work with their cleats (I'm not keen on switching cleats since getting them in the wrong place gives me knee issues).

Avoid the p1's.
I'm now on my 7th set. The build quality & bearings are complete and utter shite!

+1 I got through 3 sets in 1.5 years

AK_jnr

I had the same issues so I went for a powertap G3. I know im stuck with the same wheel but I'm not bothered really. Hasnt missed a beat in 2 years so far.

cal_stewart

BigMat wrote:

I'm in a similar situation, looking for a power meter to use with my Campag bikes. Don't fancy hub based as I would like to be able to use it on TT bike, training bike, race bike therefore with a range of wheels. Crank based cheapest option is stages at £750 so I have been looking at pedal based. Best options seem to be Garmin Vector 2, but also the Favero Bepro get decent reviews and might fit your requirements?

I'm a campagnolo man with the same needs as yourself and went with a dzero.

cycleclinic

The garmin pedals simply work. Got two sets that work flawlessy and have done for a couple years. I use them daily all year round and they simply work.

SoSimple

Having Campag kind of limits you outside of pedal and hub powermeters.

I spent ages researching and planned to go for the Stages for Campag but they had huge issues getting consistent readings from the carbon crank arm. Given their well trailed issues anyway, I decided Incould be spending my life chasing a warranty.

To further complicate things, I made a decision last year to move over to speedplay and bought Speedplay specific Sidi shoes which further limited my choices.

In the end , I went with a Power2max PM, fortunately pre-Brexit when the exchange rate was better and picked up an old style crank arm - which I preferred anyway. Have to say it's been faultless and also looks great.

It hasn't solved my problems as my winter bike has Ultegra and I've just picked up a TT bike which has an FSA SLK carbon crankset......so, in hindsight, maybe Garmin vector pedals would have been the way to go!

cougie

OP what racing are they for? Road or TT? if you do s lot of training on the turbo you can use virtual power.

bigmitch41

I recon I'd be going for the Garmin Vector 2's, thing is do you go single pedal or all in for the double pedal setup at twice the price....

pirnie

cougie wrote:

OP what racing are they for? Road or TT? if you do s lot of training on the turbo you can use virtual power.

Road, rather than TT. I used to use virtual power on the turbo and have since got a smart trainer, but I'd like to be able use power on my outdoor rides as well and get consistent power data between the two

fenix

I'd prob go powertap wheel for the summer bike then - unless you do a lot of winter training outside.

Of course this is an option for an N+1 to harmonise your groupsets... It'll save you money in the long run....

philbar72

I've used:

Power2max
Stages
Pioneer
vectors

I would use again only the pioneer and power2 max. vectors (version 2) are utterly unreliable, and get loads of dropouts. stages are crazy for dropouts and physically they are not up to british weather.

thegreatdivide

thecycleclinic wrote:

The garmin pedals simply work. Got two sets that work flawlessy and have done for a couple years. I use them daily all year round and they simply work.

This. I've had no issues with Vectors in the 2+ years I've been running them. All my bikes are Campagnolo and I've been using Look pedals for a long, long time so it was a done deal.

jgsi

105 Stages - 5 months of daily winter commutes - no issues
Vectors - on race bike and used with Zwift - no issues

StillGoing

Power2max. Keep your Keo Look pedals, will work with either groupset, the BB compatibility between frames is the only question if you intend switching it between bikes. I use a Rotor 3D24 with power2max Type S that I can switch between frames just using a different BB if I choose to. Although its right side, it gives a pretty damn accurate measurement for the left side. It also needs no recalibration. I have to question though, why you need to prioritise L/R balance. What are you going to do if you're out by a few watts on one side and is it really worth bothering about? I'm regularly anywhere between 46/54 and 49/51, but I'm blowed if I'm altering anything for that.

stueys

My thoughts are that single sided made sense when PM's were pricey, the differential now isn't enough that single sided makes sense anymore. It's just another variable you don't need in the equation.

I was one of the early adopters into vector, purely because I had 3 bikes with different bb's etc and portability was key. I had real issues with firmware which meant the vectors weren't usable for about a year. Garmin swapped them twice, the pair I have now have been rock solid but it took a long while to get there. I also run a p2m which I love, it just works every time. Great piece of kit.

From the experiences I would probably go crank based and standardise group sets if possible. My plan b would be something like a power tap and finally I would go pedals once I had exhausted those options. Crank based (whether it's p2m, quarq, et al) seems to have the least issues and be least compromising on installation. But this is purely based on my experiences over 3-4 years of playing with power.

pastryboy

The Vector interest me but I'd be concerned about their durability - all my pedals are covered in scratches - can they take a hit?. Also, how long will the bearings last? I've always thought of pedals as consumables (though only bought low end models that aren't serviceable). Do they require a torch wrench to fit?

fishyweb

pirnie wrote:

The powerpod not working on the turbo is a bit of a limiter for me unfortunately, since I do a fair bit of indoor training and I'd rather have consistent data.

Who said it doesn't work on a turbo? If your turbo is on Powerpod's supported list (which really means if they have a speed/power curve for your model), then you can switch the Powerpod into Indoor Trainer mode, and it will provide power numbers based on your speed. You obviously do need a rear-wheel ANT+ speed sensor for this. Seems to work pretty well.

pirnie

fishyweb wrote:

pirnie wrote:

The powerpod not working on the turbo is a bit of a limiter for me unfortunately, since I do a fair bit of indoor training and I'd rather have consistent data.

Who said it doesn't work on a turbo? If your turbo is on Powerpod's supported list (which really means if they have a speed/power curve for your model), then you can switch the Powerpod into Indoor Trainer mode, and it will provide power numbers based on your speed. You obviously do need a rear-wheel ANT+ speed sensor for this. Seems to work pretty well.

I didn't know it had that functionality! Fair play, that's a big deal for them. However, it's the same issue as with virtual power from TrainerRoad which I already use, numbers between outdoors and indoors won't be consistent as they are coming from different measurement sources, which is something I'd like to avoid if possible.

Overall, it looks to me like Vectors are still the best option for me I think, switching groupsets and going crank based works out far more expensive. Thanks for all the input from everyone