Cleaning advice-scraping calipers

timbo_tim

Hi

Am fairly new to MTB and hydraulic brakes, but was out in some deep wet mud at the weekend so hosed down bike on my return. Now it's all dried etc when I spin both wheels the pads/calipers seem to be lightly scraping against each other. Could be debris between the two but could require some calliper alignment I guess. Thing is I only adjusted them before I went out so is it surprising (it is to me) that I need to do the "loosen the calliper and pump the brake" adjustment so soon? If it's debris can I just ride it out? I was pretty heavy handed with the hose getting the cr@p out!

Thanks

cooldad

Just ride. It should clear.

LimitedGarry

Unless you get something really oily on the brakes or rotors, it'll clean itself. If you get oil on there, degrease the rotor, wipe it paranoidly with kitchen towels and it should be as new (or at least as before contamination).
As for the pads, the convenient method is to grind them for a bit with sandpaper, or just against each other if you don't have appropriate sandpaper. I have seen someone somewhere suggest burning out the contamination with an open flame. I have yet to try this myself but it sounds plausible to my simple mind.

timbo_tim

Thanks all, might try and get a wet wipe in the gap to make sure, but sounds like it just needs to be ridden, perfect for peace of mind, thanks.

The Rookie

LimitedGarry wrote:

As for the pads, the convenient method is to grind them for a bit with sandpaper,

Sandpaper helps with glazed pads, as you would expect for an oily contamination absorbed into the pad material it's less useful than a chocolate teapot (you can at least eat a chocolate teapot).

I have had some success soaking them in a solvent for 24 hours and then baking in the oven on max for 30 minutes, at least makes them useable while the new ones are on their way!

apreading

When I clean mine, I always go for a quick spin around the block and pull the brakes to dry them out. I find sintered pads will form surface rust otherwise. Do the same with the car.

Just ride and stop a couple of times - it will clear.

Plodder82

cooldad wrote:

Just ride. It should clear.

This/\/\/\Don't forget,any crud on the disc gets pressed into the pads when you squeeze the lever,wet wipes won't work.

keef66

Do you ever take out the brake pads on a car after a particularly mucky drive or worry about the discs rusting? No, you just drive the thing and they are in effect self cleaning. I've always assumed disc brakes on a mountain bike would work the same way, just on a smaller scale.

LimitedGarry

The Rookie wrote:

LimitedGarry wrote:

As for the pads, the convenient method is to grind them for a bit with sandpaper,

Sandpaper helps with glazed pads, as you would expect for an oily contamination absorbed into the pad material it's less useful than a chocolate teapot (you can at least eat a chocolate teapot).

I have had some success soaking them in a solvent for 24 hours and then baking in the oven on max for 30 minutes, at least makes them useable while the new ones are on their way!

I'm not talking about soaked pads. Those are essentially effed (noted the baking method).
I'm talking of contamination introduced through the rotor or through some idiot using oil spray for chain lubrication.

The Rookie

Any contaminant soaks in, taking off a fraction of an mm with sandpaper is still less useful than the edible teapot.

LimitedGarry

The Rookie wrote:

Any contaminant soaks in, taking off a fraction of an mm with sandpaper is still less useful than the edible teapot.

Being an idiot who once sprayed oil like a madman (to my defence, it was windy outside and I was aiming for a rag), my experience says that brake pads can be grinded down and work like new even after contamination.

keef66

Sanded down or ground down, but not grinded down please!