Carbon bike torque specs
Hello all.
Due to pick up my first ever carbon road bike (Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc) on Saturday. I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas about how tight to torque things like the bottle cages and seat post etc? I've heard that you need to be careful with carbon.
I've been looking for some information and can't seem to find anything. I've read that the bottle cages need to be just tight enough so they don't move. Don't have any idea of how tight to get the seat post clamp though.
Also, do I need to invest in some carbon assembly paste too? New to this as I've only ever had aluminium bike frames before.
Thanks.
Due to pick up my first ever carbon road bike (Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc) on Saturday. I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas about how tight to torque things like the bottle cages and seat post etc? I've heard that you need to be careful with carbon.
I've been looking for some information and can't seem to find anything. I've read that the bottle cages need to be just tight enough so they don't move. Don't have any idea of how tight to get the seat post clamp though.
Also, do I need to invest in some carbon assembly paste too? New to this as I've only ever had aluminium bike frames before.
Thanks.
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Is it a new bike? often the torque settings are marked on the side of frame etc, usually 4-5nm for the small bolts. Its worth using a quality torque wrench capable of 0 - 15 nm should do it.Paracyclist
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BigMitch41 wrote:Is it a new bike? often the torque settings are marked on the side of frame etc, usually 4-5nm for the small bolts. Its worth using a quality torque wrench capable of 0 - 15 nm should do it.
Thanks.
Yes, brand new. I'll take a look when I pick it up.
I have a couple of torque wrenches at home. I'll see if I have a lower scale one.0 -
Bottle cage bolts - you don't need a torque number, you just need common sense. Seat clamp will probably be around 5nm, as will the stem and bar bolts. Something like a Ritchey Torque Key should take care of everything.0
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Thanks. I'll take a look at one of those torque keys.
I guess with bottle cages, tight enough to hold the cage and that's it.0 -
benws1 wrote:Thanks. I'll take a look at one of those torque keys.
I guess with bottle cages, tight enough to hold the cage and that's it.
Stem/steerer bolts and stem faceplate bolts will be marked, but range between 4Nm and 6Nm. Seatpost generally 5Nm, but go as low as possible without it slipping (assembly paste helps here).
Bottle cages - just nip them up.Ben
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benws1 wrote:Don't have any idea of how tight to get the seat post clamp though.
Also, do I need to invest in some carbon assembly paste too? New to this as I've only ever had aluminium bike frames before.
A seat clamp must be tightened so that the post doesn't slip.
Paste can help to prevent slipping an keep the torque low.0 -
Thanks Ben and Keezx.
I'm not light, so will need the paste.
One more quick question. The frame is carbon, but the seat post is metal (I'm guessing aluminium). Do you still use carbon paste for this?0 -
Carbon paste is a deffo, Ritchie torque key for 99% of all jobs.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Thanks.
Just ordered a 5nm Ritchey Torque Key.0 -
benws1 wrote:Thanks Ben and Keezx.
I'm not light, so will need the paste.
One more quick question. The frame is carbon, but the seat post is metal (I'm guessing aluminium). Do you still use carbon paste for this?
I have an alu frame with a carbon seatpost and a carbon frame with an alu seatpost and use carbon paste on both. Partly so I get no slipping and I don't have to tighten the clamp bolts too much, and partly to prevent corrosion.
The alu bike with carbon post is coming up to 10 years old now and is still pristine. I take it out for a wipe down and reapplication of paste once a year.0 -
benws1 wrote:Thanks. I'll take a look at one of those torque keys.
I guess with bottle cages, tight enough to hold the cage and that's it.
I bought one of these http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-torque-wrench-set/ Less than £30 and does the job perfectly.
As per other post, seat clamp is 5 Nm, same for stem bolts. All of the fittings are marked on the frame/fitting
The only one i have strayed from is the bolt through axle. I haven't done it up anywhere near as tight as it says. It says 10-16 Nm. Even at 10 Nm that is very tight to undo at the side of the road with a multi toolGET WHEEZY - WALNUT LUNG RACING TEAM™0 -
DavesNotHere wrote:benws1 wrote:Thanks. I'll take a look at one of those torque keys.
I guess with bottle cages, tight enough to hold the cage and that's it.
I bought one of these http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-torque-wrench-set/ Less than £30 and does the job perfectly.
As per other post, seat clamp is 5 Nm, same for stem bolts. All of the fittings are marked on the frame/fitting
The only one i have strayed from is the bolt through axle. I haven't done it up anywhere near as tight as it says. It says 10-16 Nm. Even at 10 Nm that is very tight to undo at the side of the road with a multi tool
Thanks.
I have a couple of Sealey torque wrenches at home. Not sure what they go down to though so got the Ritchey one for the 5nm stuff.0 -
I haven't done it up anywhere near as tight as it says. It says 10-16 Nm. Even at 10 Nm that is very tight to undo at the side of the road with a multi tool
This is a good point in general. I tend to tighten to lower torques than recommended as the "max" torques are often unnecessary to hold things tightly in place. For example with stem bolts I would go hand tight or roughly about 3 Nm.0 -
Multi tools are rubbish though.
I'd personally go higher towards the max than lower.
Ritchey key is perfect for 99% of stuff. Bought mine to do one job as I already have a plethora of torque wrenches and now won't be without it.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Matthewfalle wrote:I'd personally go higher towards the max than lower.
Ritchey key is perfect for 99% of stuff. Bought mine to do one job as I already have a plethora of torque wrenches and now won't be without it.
but do you adjust the torque you use based on whether the bike is wet or dry, or likely to get wet if it's dry when you work on it?0 -
Depends.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Matthewfalle wrote:Depends.
on ... ?0 -
wishitwasallflat wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:Depends.
on ... ?
Loads of stuff. Variables.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Thanks for that - evidence based variables - perfect.0
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Pleasure - happy to help any time.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
VariablesGET WHEEZY - WALNUT LUNG RACING TEAM™0