Wheels and rear mechanical issues

Chaz.Harding

Ok, so I have two issues currently...

My bike (2008 Specialised Tarmac) has recently started feeling very bendy. It's kinda scary on fast corners actually. I have Ultegra 6600 wheels fitted.

Initially I thought it was just the my seat post was bendy (it's a 56cm frame, and I'm 6'1 / 186 cms) but it's not. It feels like my rear wheel has a LOT of lateral deflection. Without any real effort I can make the rear rim touch the brake blocks on either side. Is it just because I'm heavy for a cyclist - about 95kgs?

I'm aware that all wheel will bend a bit, but this much seems extreme. I had the wheels re-trued about 1800 miles ago. And FYI, I live in a hilly area (500m ascent every 50km) and cycle between 200 and 250kms a week.

Also, is there any indication for brake track wear? There is a very noticeable groove in both front and rear rim braking surfaces...

Finally, my shifting is really rubbish. I think it's the spring in the rear mech being weak. Is there a rebuild kit or new spring I can buy to revive it?

Thanks all.

The Rookie

Check the spoke tension, also make sure the QR is done up tight and not allowing the wheel to move in the dropouts.

What is the shifting issue exactly, how long ago did you replace the cables (the biggest cause of shifting issues)?

You can't rebuild most mechs to replace the return Spring, in the absence of a make an model of mech it makes it even harder to guess.

Bobbinogs

Also, check the bearings for lateral play.

Regarding your shifting, just buy a new SS cable for a fiver, clean/lube the cable path...fit and re-index. Sorted.

Chaz.Harding

Apologies, I have a full 10sp Ultegra 6600 groupset. The gear cables were replaced in September and don't seem to be stiff or hard to move in the outers. It feels like the return spring is just a bit weak to drag it across to change gear.

The wheels are secure in the frame, and the bearings have been recently stripped, cleaned, regreased and readjusted so there is no play in the bearings. As I mentioned before, spoke tension feels good, and all the spokes are evenly tensioned. None broken or loose.

Bobbinogs

Next time it would probably help if you started one thread per issue. Regarding the shifting, we probably need to take a step back.

Am I right in thinking you are saying that you can shift well going up the block (to get a lower gear) but shifting the other way is slow or imprecise? If so, then it could be as simple as the indexing needs sorting (a 1/4 turn clockwise) or the tension of the spring is not enough to overcome the friction in the cable movement. You keep mentioning a weak spring so if you are certain it is that then just buy a new RD. Personally, I would check indexing first. Then, uncouple the cable, give the RD a good lube with 3in1 and then see how it moved manually. Movement good and an even tension? If yes then there is probably nothing wrong with the RD so I would check cable movement again carefully as it could have a minor fray. With the cable disconnected, gently push it an inch out of the shifter and manually move it back and fro to ensure all is smooth. Clean/lube then reconnect and re-index. If that doesn't work I would try a new cable because they are as cheap as chips. I would also check the jockey wheels for excessive play or wear. 30 minutes to just work your way through.

The hanger could also be an issue but only if you have tw@ted it at some point.

An RD should last a good few years so I, personally, wouldn't start by assuming that a weak spring is the issue. ..but it could be.

Chaz.Harding

Cheers - I didn't want to 'clutter' up the forum with inane questions though haha.

To be fair, the bike was bought in 2008 and it it's still on all original derailleurs and shifters (cassette, cables and chainrings all renewed).

The rear shifter is slow in both directions, and often takes 2 or 3 clicks to shift a gear in either direction. It's indexed correctly though (I'm a mechanic by trade - Im pretty handy at maintenance). I've fully degreased the mech with some horrible chemicals and pressure washed it with an industrial unit before lubing with heavy and light oils (no difference in performance from either).

Chaz.Harding

So I suspect it might be time for a new rear mech and maybe a new set of wheels too. I don't like the very flexible feeling get currently...

Just one on the wheels, do Shimano place wear indicators on the brake track? I'm guessing I'm pretty close to the max wear, since the brake tracks are very noticeably concaved now...

keef66

My (nearly 10 years old) Shimano RS10 wheels have wear indicators. Tiny dimple milled into each brake track, opposite side to the valve hole. When they disappears the rim's had it. Fronts are getting harder to spot; the rims have to be properly clean to see them, so I suspect they are near the end of their life. Rears are more obvious, which is logical since I hardly ever use the rear brake.

Hinaultscrapcousin

95kg on 16/20 spoke wheels, I wouldn't be surprised if that's the problem. I'm an inch shorter than you, about 25-30kg lighter and still don't like to go below 28 spokes. 32 spoke Open Pros, H+Son Archetypes, Pacenti SL23's (now renamed Forza's) on some decent hubs would be my recommendation.

Chaz.Harding

Hinaultscrapcousin wrote:

95kg on 16/20 spoke wheels, I wouldn't be surprised if that's the problem. I'm an inch shorter than you, about 25-30kg lighter and still don't like to go below 28 spokes. 32 spoke Open Pros, H+Son Archetypes, Pacenti SL23's (now renamed Forza's) on some decent hubs would be my recommendation.

Well, here's the rub - I've never noticed them being flexible before. Ever. Just recently it's been very unnerving when going quickly around any corners. Maybe time for new wheels too...

I've been looking at the newer Ultegra wheels - but they have the same spoke count. Any advice on tubeless ready wheels for a heavy dude at around the same price?

Hinaultscrapcousin

Why tubeless? Are you getting lots of pin punctures?

Bobbinogs

RTW-Chaz wrote:

Cheers - I didn't want to 'clutter' up the forum with inane questions though haha.

To be fair, the bike was bought in 2008 and it it's still on all original derailleurs and shifters (cassette, cables and chainrings all renewed).

The rear shifter is slow in both directions, and often takes 2 or 3 clicks to shift a gear in either direction. It's indexed correctly though (I'm a mechanic by trade - Im pretty handy at maintenance). I've fully degreased the mech with some horrible chemicals and pressure washed it with an industrial unit before lubing with heavy and light oils (no difference in performance from either).

If it is shifting poorly in both directions then it could be the jockey wheels have excessive play or are worn. Equally it could be the cable movement. It is unlikely to be the RD although buying one will solve a jockey wheel issue (although they can easily be replaced separately for less than a tenner). You seem determined to buy an RD so just buy one.

Ref the wheels, at your weight the ideal solution would be handbuilts but something like the Quattro LGs would work well and look good. I would probably avoid the Shimano options.

Chaz.Harding

Bobbinogs wrote:

If it is shifting poorly in both directions then it could be the jockey wheels have excessive play or are worn. Equally it could be the cable movement. It is unlikely to be the RD although buying one will solve a jockey wheel issue (although they can easily be replaced separately for less than a tenner). You seem determined to buy an RD so just buy one.

Ref the wheels, at your weight the ideal solution would be handbuilts but something like the Quattro LGs would work well and look good. I would probably avoid the Shimano options.

I'm not desperate to buy anything. I want to eek out as much life as possible! All I'm saying is, I've degreased, cleaned and lubricated the mech, indexed it, and it still won't shift properly. I'm fairly sure it's the return spring, as the cables feel smooth. What I don't want to do, however, is waste money on a mech if it's likely my shifters are shagged....

You have any suggestions on handbuilt wheels? Spoke count? 24F/28R sound alright you think? I've been keeping a keen eye out for hubs at good prices - quite likely DT Swiss 240 straightpull centrelock hubs (futureproofing myself a bit) or maybe something else. I'm not set on anything at all.

But.... If I'm buying handbuilt wheels, I'll spend a bit more, as I can keep the hubs and re-lace a rim. The hubs will have to be disc-specific, ready for my next bike too.

veronese68

RTW-Chaz wrote:

But.... If I'm buying handbuilt wheels, I'll spend a bit more, as I can keep the hubs and re-lace a rim. The hubs will have to be disc-specific, ready for my next bike too.

Handbuilts are a good idea for a variety of reasons, as you say they are rebuildable. Disc hubs won't fit the back of your bike as they are 135mm and road hubs are 130mm. Fronts are the same there is just the choice on disc between bolt through or quick release, but you can get hubs with interchangeable end caps.
Talk to a decent wheel builder and they will be able to advise what suits for your purposes. Malcolm form the Cycle Clinic posts on here a lot and can advise, people that have used him say good things about him too. Take a look at the handbuilt wheels thread in road buying advice.