Bike rack - Thule 598 or 569?

johngti
johngti Posts: 2,508
edited January 2017 in Road buying advice
I've narrowed down my choice of a roof mounted rack to Thule's 569 (sprint, fork mounted) or 598. Which would you choose and why?

I already have a Saris Bones 2 bike rear rack but it takes 10 minutes to set up. I'm after something I can pretty much leave on and attach the bike to without faffing around with a spare number plate and straps. I'd love a tow bar mounted system but don't have a tow bar!

Comments

  • figbat
    figbat Posts: 680
    How is your down tube on the bike? I have a 598 which is great for my MTB (although the clamp does end up very near the chainring) but on my Synapse the cables run down the front of the tube and scratch the paintwork when clamped (the MTB runs the cables along the top tube). It's also best to make sure the frame is clean around the clamping area (my MTB frame has a certain 'patina' now such that I am not so bothered, but the cable scratches on the road bike do irk me). Another difference is wheel stability - the MTB stays put when moving but the Cannondale waves its front wheel about when underway (seen in shadows as I was driving) unless I make an effort to stop it (old innertube strapping wheel to frame). That's with the front wheel strap as tight as it will go.

    In terms of ease of use it is great - 30 seconds to mount or dismount the bike, only a couple of minutes to fit or unfit the rack to the roofbars (I use the T-track adaptors). I've seen a YouTube video of someone nicking a bike from a locked 598 rack very easily - if I wanted security I would add in a wire lock.

    If I was doing it for the road bike that I have I wouldn't use the 598 (I got the rack long before I got the roader).
    Cube Reaction GTC Pro 29 for the lumpy stuff
    Cannondale Synapse alloy with 'guards for the winter roads
    Fuji Altamira 2.7 for the summer roads
    Trek 830 Mountain Track frame turned into a gravel bike - for anywhere & everywhere
  • andcp
    andcp Posts: 644
    figbat wrote:
    but on my Synapse the cables run down the front of the tube and scratch the paintwork when clamped (the MTB runs the cables along the top tube).
    We use 598's too, they're very good. To avoid scratching your paint, wrap foam round the down-tube but make sure the cables are between the foam and the clamp, not touching the down-tube https://www.pipelagging.com/product/437 ... oCEjnw_wcB or similar.
    Even with or without extra packing the racks are designed to flex, so when you're hammering down an autoroute don't be too perturbed if you see the shadows of your bikes wobbling around a bit...
    "It must be true, it's on the internet" - Winston Churchill
  • johngti
    johngti Posts: 2,508
    That's two for the 598 then. It's £40 cheaper than the 569 so that could be a good thing!!
  • apreading
    apreading Posts: 4,535
    shove a rag in between the cables and the down tube - been doing this for years and no marks.
  • figbat
    figbat Posts: 680
    I do protect the cables now, but the the marks came from when I bought it (used) and drove it home.

    I realise the bikes wobble a bit, but with the road bike the front wheel (and thus bars) rhythmically steer left and right, presumably an aerodynamic harmonic effect. I lash the wheel to the down tube with a bit of tube and it stops.
    Cube Reaction GTC Pro 29 for the lumpy stuff
    Cannondale Synapse alloy with 'guards for the winter roads
    Fuji Altamira 2.7 for the summer roads
    Trek 830 Mountain Track frame turned into a gravel bike - for anywhere & everywhere