Removing a stubborn screw in the down tube

Simontheintrepid

Hi all. Doubt I'm the first to ask but would anyone have any idea how to get the remains of an old barrel adjuster (just the screw bit) out of the frame. It sheared off when I was trying to unscrew (wrench) it out but thanks to some corrosion it proved too stubborn. As shown in the picture below there's very little to grab onto. I have optimistically tried to drill it out but that's been of limited use as the chucks on both my drills are too fat to get the right angle against the frame.

It's preventing me routing the rear derailleur cable so really that's the solution I'm after. At this point I don't really care if I put another functional barrel in or not. I just want to clear the screw. Advice is very gratefully recieved. Thanks.

k-dog

Cut a slot enough for a screwdriver? Some good penetrating fluid and you might get it going.

Either that or buy the right size of drill bit and try again. If you get one with a hex head you can use an extension so get further away to get a decent angle.

Simontheintrepid

Thanks for the quick replies, much appreciated. I've lost hope of turning it but will give drill extensions and/or screw extractors a go next.

Re: the greasing I've learned that lesson the hard way a few times. This is the first road bike I bought when I got into cycling so it's not always had the best maintenance and the frame has corroded quite a bit in places, but I've wanted to restore it for the sentimental value.

The Rookie

Use a proper penetrating oil like plusgas, WD40 is pretty useless. An easy out should do the job, most decent workshops of any type (car, motorbike or bike) should have some. I have my own set for just such a situation.

redvee

Read here

http://road.cc/content/forum/215232-bro ... e-replaced

sungod

as above, plusgas/similar to help ease it

if the frame is aluminium, pouring boiling water over the boss may also help loosen the thread - the al will expand a bit more than the steel

it's already got a hole through it for the cable, that makes using a screw extractor much simpler

keef66

Reminder to self to check that the barrel adjusters on the winter bike are still functional. They should be, I'm usually pathological about greasing / copperslipping things that might become stuck, but I can't remember doing them recently...

homers_double

An easy-out should do that pretty easily.

crankycrank

Agree with the posters above. Good penetrating oil for 2+ days, boiling water over the cable stop, screw extractor or you could also use a sheet metal screw from either side to break it loose. Be patient and don't use gorilla strength trying to turn the extractor as you may break the cable stop off the frame.

Simontheintrepid

Hi thanks for all the messages and advice. I had a go with liberal application of plusgas and a screw extractor, both of which did bugger all. More annoyingly I also bought a drill extension to get the angle against the frame, which the screw extractor being double ended did not fit into securely. Also tried turning a screw into it but none of these did anything at all. Eventually I was out of options until I found a hex HSS drill bit set to use with the extension. I was worried about ruining the thread if I drilled but I started small (3.5 mm) and went through with increasingly larger bits until there was barely anything left of it, and luckily enough thread to be able to put a new functioning (and heavily lubed) barrel adjustor. So successful in the end, but a hugely disproportionate amount of hassle over one screw. I've definitely learned my lesson to keep everything well lubed.

sungod

for things like this where you have dissimilar metals and no need for mechanical lubrication, it's better to use an anti-seize compound, this'll last far longer than lube and do a better job of preventing galvanic corrosion