Swapping chainset
bing gordon
Posts: 662
I've never changed the chainset on a road bike. I have a bike with a Specialized FACT Carbon, integrated oversized design, 34/50 teeth chainset and can I swap it straight for a Dura Ace 7900/7950 compact ?. Will the hollow axel on the Dura Ace chainset be the same length as the Specialized FACT chainset ?.
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dhungerf wrote:The chains are sorted by level of quality and width. You would select the width based on your rear gearset (8, 10 or 11 speed compatable). The price would then go up depending on the quality. Regarding length, the chains come extra long and you would need to remove links to match it to the lenth of your current chain (the one you removed). Count the links as the old chain may have streatched. Also get the "quick link" as the master link. It makes it simpler to service the chain, you will not need a chain splitter for service. SRAM and Shimano would use the same chain.
Maybe you are reading a different post to me, but the OP is asking about chainsets, not chains...
To the OP - you need to consider which BB standard you are using. Swapping one with another is not as straightforward as that.0 -
bing gordon wrote:I've never changed the chainset on a road bike. I have a bike with a Specialized FACT Carbon, integrated oversized design, 34/50 teeth chainset and can I swap it straight for a Dura Ace 7900/7950 compact ?. Will the hollow axel on the Dura Ace chainset be the same length as the Specialized FACT chainset ?.
Short answer is no - different axle standards. Best bet if rings are worn would be to fit replacement ringsFFS! Harden up and grow a pair0 -
sorry for not getting back sooner, work got in the way. I bought the 7900/7950 as part of a groupset thats why i thought id use it. Is it the length of the axel or width of it that wont fit my oversized bb30 ?.
im a bit gutted really if i cant use it as i like the look of the dura ace chainset0 -
To fit a Shimano Hollowtech chainset, which the DA one is to a BB30 you will need to use an adapter. There is the permanent sleeve you press in which is the most stable but will invalidate warranty or you can get adapter cups but these can have a habit of creaking. Wiggle sell both.0
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Thanks SmoggySteve I didn't know there different and there's conversion stuff on the market. Out of them which would be the easiest to try ? so if it's not right I can go back to the original BB30 chainset ?
is it something like this ?
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/bottom-brac ... oad-68-mm/0 -
That looks like it would do just fine. You will have to remove the pressed in bearings and locking rings currently inside your BB she'll. this isn't difficult- you can do it with the proper bearing removal tools and a hammer or if you're brave an improvised tool to knock out the bearing from the other side out. Clips are easy to remove after. The other option I mention is a solid Aluminium sleeve you have to press into the shell which is near impossible to remove afterwards.0
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OK thanks, so it's remove the old bearings then this in ? does the kcnc need special spanners ? and would a bit of copper grease be OK ? it's stuff I used on the car brake pads to stop them squeaking0
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I've never used one. I elected for the sleeve version but I don't think so. I think it just pushes in and the pretension of the chainset is what holds it all together in the bike. Hence why they are prone to creaking. There is nothing holding the bearing onto the frame other than lateral pressure from the crank arms.
As it is only a temp fitting you can give it a try and see how it goes. If you are less than impressed with the results it's a simple case of repressing the old bearings and putting the old chainset on. All you will have lost is the cost of the adapter.0 -
Is this the sleeve you used ?
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fsa-bb30-conversion-kit/0 -
That's the one. As I say it's a pretty permanent fitting. If you don't mind that or there are no reasons for you not to. Mine is rock solid, never creaks or squeaks. It is a job to press it into the frame and it takes patience to do. I put mine in so I could use an ultegra chainset with a Stages power meter on. This way I could swap my meter from my standard bike to my TT bike quickly.0
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Sorry to keep bothering steve but once the sleeves fitted what do I use then inside the sleeve ? like I said I've had a mess with the kids mtb's but never on my road bike.
Did you try sticking the sleeve in the freezer for a day ?.,I use that tip for any really tight metal fixings0 -
When I fitted mine I gave the BB shell a good clean inside and especially on the bearing contact areas. I already had a bearing press but a diy one is easy to make from some washers and a long threaded bar and some nuts. I didn't do anything like freeze or lube up the sleeve I just went in dry ( :? )
Just before the last part of the pressing I used loctite on the outer sleeve where is makes contact with the shell. Left it to set for 24 hrs indoors in the warmth and job done.0 -
Back again smoggy which bb did you use once the FSA was installed ?0
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bing gordon wrote:Back again smoggy which bb did you use once the FSA was installed ?
I bought an ultegra one from wiggle. English thread0 -
The Wheels Manufacturing adapters are an easier alternative to fitting a semi-permanent sleeve. They just insert into the existing press-fit bearings and you can then install your hollowtech chainset.FFS! Harden up and grow a pair0
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I'm still waiting on some bits to do the job should all be here tomorrow but I'm wondering, is copper grease OK for the bracket adapter ends to stop them seizing ?. I have some copper grease spray, the stuff you put on the back of car disc brakes to stop them squeaking0
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Whatever grease will do the job.0
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Yes. Will work fine.
Copper grease is only used cos of the brake temperature it won't melt on cars but if you mean it's all you have then go for it. I generally just use the same shimano grease for anything I need to use it on. Mainly bearings on speedplay pedals or steerer bearings.0