kickr set up

redvision

Hi folks,

So after i had to return two kickr snaps due to issues, i now have a full kickr!

I set it up yesterday but had to change the cassette for a 10 speed.
My torque wrench only goes up to 24nm so i couldn't tighten to the exact 40nm as the instructions advise.
Whenever i change the cassette on a wheel i always tighten the lockring by feel and have never needed a torque wrench for this. However, tightening the lockring on the kickr the thing just seemed to continue to tighten and never stop. At first it never dawned on me and i assumed it would feel the same as a wheel, but after so many turns I started to think it was the lockring and tried to remove the cassette which it turns out was on so tight it was a bloody nightmare! So it was definitely tighter than the 40nm. Anyway, i made sure the spacer was on and then tried again but had exactly the same feel - it just keeps tightening. I have ordered a new torque wrench but its not going to be delivered until next week.

I am desperate to use the thing so i was wondering if anyone with a kickr has changed to a 10speed cassette and did you install the cassette without a torque wrench? If so, have you got any tips or advice on tightening it? Did yours just keep on tightening and then stop? or did it feel like it would just continue to tighten?

I am probably being a bit paranoid but would appreciate any advice.

Thanks

markhewitt1978

Make sure that when you're tightening you're holding the cassette in place with a chain whip, not necessary for normal wheels but is for wheel off trainers.

Thick Mike

I've just changed the original 11sp to shimano 105 11sp cassette. Found the Lockring a real pain to put on. I put the original lock ring on about five times until I got it lined up properly. Each of the other times it was crossthreaded. I only spotted it when I spun the cassette and saw it wobble. I just tightened until it was tight, once it was threaded properly it tightened as normal and stopped when I used reasonable force.

redvision

Thanks for the replies fellas.

I have tried again this evening and used the chainwhip whilst tightening the lockring. Still seemed to turn forever when tightening.

Anyway, tightened it up and had a quick spin but there was noticeable noise in the smallest sprocket. I jumped straight to the conclusion that it was probably the cassette and lockring. However, looking from the side it looks like the smallest sprocket has one dodgy tooth which is causing all the noise and the chain to jump a bit. I'm a bit ****** off tbh as it's a brand new cassette but there we go.

Quick question regarding this. Club members who use smart turbos told me you should be in the smallest sprocket when using the ERG mode but is this accurate? Would it make a difference if I stayed in say 12 rather than 11?
(as this would solve the dodgy 11 sprocket problem).

Thanks again for your help

frisbee

Erg mode will work in any socket. Possibly at the extremes of the power range of the trainer - high or low, you might want to be in either the highest or lowest gear but the whole idea of erg mode is that it provides a constant power sink at any crank speed.

redvision

frisbee wrote:

Erg mode will work in any socket. Possibly at the extremes of the power range of the trainer - high or low, you might want to be in either the highest or lowest gear but the whole idea of erg mode is that it provides a constant power sink at any crank speed.

Cool. Thanks for clarifying. Hopefully should be all good for a proper ride on it tomorrow!
Question now is which online program to use :?: :?:

markhewitt1978

redvision wrote:

Quick question regarding this. Club members who use smart turbos told me you should be in the smallest sprocket when using the ERG mode but is this accurate? Would it make a difference if I stayed in say 12 rather than 11?
(as this would solve the dodgy 11 sprocket problem).

No that's wrong, quite simply . ERG can work in any gear but just for the sake of mechanical sympathy it's better to choose a straight chainline, so big ring, middle of the cassette.

Although if noise is an issue using the little ring on the front will make the kickr run at a slower speed so keep the noise down.

grenw

markhewitt1978 wrote:

redvision wrote:

Quick question regarding this. Club members who use smart turbos told me you should be in the smallest sprocket when using the ERG mode but is this accurate? Would it make a difference if I stayed in say 12 rather than 11?
(as this would solve the dodgy 11 sprocket problem).

No that's wrong, quite simply . ERG can work in any gear but just for the sake of mechanical sympathy it's better to choose a straight chainline, so big ring, middle of the cassette.

Exactly how we have ours set up.