Rear Tyre wobble

trevorh
trevorh Posts: 87
edited January 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
Discovered a thorn puncture. Managed to get the tyre off the rim and fitted a new tube. Really struggled to get the tyre back on the rim (WTB TCS Trailblazer 27.5+ tyres) as they were really tight. Got it on eventually bit then discovered I had pinched the tube. Took it my local Halfords (I know, not my first choice but only place that was open) and they sorted it. When I reinstalled the wheel there is a prominent wobble directly opposite the valve. Viewed from behind the bike the tread also appears to be off as well. Took it back to Halfords who refunded me the cost of fitting the tube etc. and they took all day yesterday trying to reseat the tyre correctly but there is still a wobble. I have looked all around both sides of the tyre and the bead appears to be seated fine with nothing obvious showing that it isn't. Could I have ruined the bead when I fitted the tyre?? I can get a new tyre for £30 but would rather not have to. Any suggestions??

Comments

  • Well, it might be worth trying to pump the tire up near it's maximum pressure and let it sit for a day or two.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Have a close look, is it seated all the way round the bead evenly? Probably not.

    If not, deflate, wipe some soapy water all the way round both sides and inflate to normal pressure and try some manipulation, or inflate to just over max pressure (noting when you get on the bike the pressure goes up, so just over max pressure isnt an issue.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • trevorh
    trevorh Posts: 87
    I have checked the bead on both sides of the rim and it is seated correctly. There isn't any part of the bead higher above the rim in any place
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Distorted tyre then, you can try removing and refitting, put up with it or buy another - it happens.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    Maybe play with the valve locking ring. When I replace I've found it helpful to have the lock 'nut' loose when fitting the tyre and when it is on the rim to tighten it up as pressure is increased - in say 3 stages. Pumping to 60 or 80 does help to adjust the tube after leaving it for a while.
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

    jeez :roll:
  • not had troubles with the tube getting in the way on the mountain bikes but it defo helps to loosen off the locking nut & push the valve/tube into the tyre during the later stages of refitting the tyre to keep the tube at the valve section away from the rim ( not had troubles with any mountain bikes yet but still do this method which may be why i have had no troubles as it has helped alot with the road bike tyres )

    but on saying that, my fatbike did give me a fair bit of grief when i changed the tyres & tubes shortly after getting it. - even though the tyre looked seated OK on the rim it was way off when you spun the wheel - tread area moved about alot, & the height of the tyre changed compared to the rim very slightly when looking at the spinning wheel side on.

    tried over inflating ( went upto 30psi on a tyre that had max 20 on it ( no load as bike in stand at the time ) & nothing, tried a spray of soapy water ( made things worse there - helps loads on the road bike though ) in the end, full deflate & de-bead & then added just enough air to let the tube hold the tyre enough to let me manually tweak the tyre so it looked right when spun. & if honest the bead/rim section did not look any different when done to how it did before but the rest of the tyre looked much better & has remained so even down around the 9psi mark it currently resides at.
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    I've had this a few times on folding bead tyres some just wont sit right on the wheel and then you think the wheel is buckled.

    Is the tyre new as you could take it back to shop and change it for another, I did this a few months back at Halfords had a bought a mountain king tyre that split on the bead and they swapped out it no problem.
  • trevorh
    trevorh Posts: 87
    Its not new about 4 weeks old. Got my bike from Wiggle but as its used they may not replace it.
  • trevorh
    trevorh Posts: 87
    Ok so my LBS has told me that the tyre has deformed. Spoke to Wiggle who were excellent and said they would be sending me a replacement albeit a slight upgrade to a Schwalbe Rocket Ron. Excellent service I must say. For the time being I will keep the other WTB Trailblazer on the front but does anyone have any recommendations for a front tyre to "match" the Schwalbe? Something like a Nobby Nic perhaps?? Appreciate your advice on this one
  • Nobby nics are quite good, I've got a Schwalbe Hans Dampf which I find to be excellent.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Depends on the type of riding and bike really.

    I use a Ron front and Ralph rear in summer (about three weeks it seems like) and Nics both ends in winter, EVO compound which grips much better than the cheaper performance.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.