Stock Voodoo Bizango - Going tubeless

victorwilliams
victorwilliams Posts: 25
edited February 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi guys, thinking of upgrading my voodoo bizango to tubeless. Is it possible to go with the stock wheels and tyres or do I need to upgrade. I've got access to a compressor. Thanks in advance .

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Pretty much any wheels will work with tape, valves and some goo.
    Tyres generally work ok, but depends.
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  • Cheers for the reply, regarding the tyres what does it depend on? Stock tyres on the bizango are maxis ardents .
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Folding are easier to seat than wire bead IMO.
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    And some wire bead just won't go tubeless.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • also, you may have to run over the inside of the stock tyre with some sort of sealant as last time i removed one of the stock ardents from my bizango i found the overall construction of the tyre body rather thin indeed ( good for low weight, not good for keeping air in without the help of a tube ) - especially when compared with an ardent i had bought as a spare so i imagine you may find that you could loose alot of the sealant you chuck in sealing up the tyre at 1st if you dont do it before re-fitting ( plenty of advice on here in the past on suitable alternative products that you can seal the tyre with )
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    No need for that in my opinion, just inflate and 'swirl' the wheel to coat the inside, I use Schwalbe light skin so used to doing that.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • is not definate as like you say sealant added to the wheel & swirled may do the trick ( possibly just add a little extra to cover losses in this tyre seal process ), but if that fails then at least there somat else he can try.

    here is why i mentioned it as if his stock tyres are like mine then they look like they may be very leaky & need extra help.

    Stock item
    Stock_2_25_Ardent.jpg

    non stock ardent
    2_4_Ardent.jpg
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    When I do the light skins they have a very bad case of acne when I first fill them, I just use 50ml of sealent, never been an issue.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • JGTR
    JGTR Posts: 1,404
    Stock/cheap Specialized tyres are similar, sealant seeps through the sidewalls, doesn't cause any issues.
  • My tyres are like yours compuwiz_uk, maybe a little bit worse. Ive got all the bits to give it a bash, I'll let you all know how it goes :0
  • *UPDATE*

    I only had time to attempt the front tyre over Christmas, but so far so good! The tyre seated back on the wheel pretty easily and its held air for 6 days now. I did use a compressor,but didn't have a presta valve attachment so just used a bit of rubber tube to attached the valve to the compressor... and it still worked!

    The equipment I used to get the job done: Orange Seal sealant. Gorilla tape to tape up the rims.
  • i may have to give tubeless a try @ some point but i think the main reasons i aint done so far s 2 fold, too many spare tubes that aint been out the box as been lucky so far & erm, too lazy to mess unless i have to :D

    good to know its doable though, ghetto for the win :D
  • *UPDATE* Both tyres are now tubeless and have been ridden and not failed. Very happy with it, you can defiantly feel the difference.
  • felt a difference on mine when i finally got it to go tubeless ( if it could go wrong it did lol )

    most noticable difference was the noise the tyres made @ road use pressures turing testing outside the house. it sounded much more hollow than with a tube in.

    only problem i had during testing was when i took a up kerb a tad fast & hard ( rear wheel anyway ) as i was still sat on the saddle just being lazy & managed to get a burp due to the angle & less than ideal technique i used to climb the kerb, i just heard a muffled pop kinda noise & i glanced down at the tyre to see sealant on the sidewall but otherwise it just carried on as normal afterwards, just a little more cushioned due to the pressure lost.