New to Turbo's - Zwift?

tenohfive
tenohfive Posts: 152
edited January 2017 in Indoor training and turbo forum
I've never really looked at turbo's before (wrote them off along 'too expensive/skin's waterproof' lines) but Santa has been very kind and an Elite Crono Fluid Elastogel has found it's way down my chimney.

What little I have seen of turbo's suggests that Zwift is a good way of making the most of having a turbo. I am being shamelessly lazy here (I've made a dent on the mulled wine) but what do I need to get myself on Zwift?

I currently use a Tomtom Runner 2 watch in place of a bike GPS with a TT BT HRM strap. I was planning to use it with one of my PC's (both of which hit minimum requirements for Zwift.) Is this all I really need to get on Zwift?
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/elite-misuro-b- ... ce-sensor/

And I've seen there are a range of turbo accessories from floor mats to turbo tyres; which are essential and which are 'nice to have'?
And as an idiot who knows nothing really about turbo's - anything I should really know?

Comments

  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    That's a dumb trainer I think? So you're going to need an ANT+ USB stick (look up Sunnto Mini Movestick) and an ANT+ Speed sensor. The ones Garmin make are fine.

    You won't be able to use any watches etc

    That's the minimum the only other thing I would say is that you need a decent fan as you'll heat up super quickly. Plus a lot of people have turbo trainer specific tyres.
  • tenohfive
    tenohfive Posts: 152
    It is a dumb trainer, although the Misuro B+ linked above is compatible and will allegedly give speed, cadence and (apparently realistic) power estimates.

    Is there a route that'll use Bluetooth Smart rather than ANT+ though? My HRM is BT smart and it'd save me shelling out £40 for an ANT+ one. Assuming it'll all (by magic/voodoo I presume) connect up. Not a biggy mind.
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Yes. If you have a smartphone iOS or Android you can connect your HRM through that then to the PC. Speed can still be on ANT+
  • MiddleRinger
    MiddleRinger Posts: 678
    Bluetooth or ANT+ dongle for your PC. Speed sensor for your rear wheel. That's about the minimum you'll need. You won't need your watch or Garmin. Zwift will guesstimate your power using turbo resistance and wheel speed (zPower). If you google "ZWIFT ON A BUDGET" there's a good how-to video. Get on it, so better than the old school stare at the wall turbo training.

    Other stuff:

    A mat under your turbo to catch sweat and dampen vibration.
    A big ass fan to keep you cool.
    Trainer tyre will last longer and be quieter, not essential though.
    Possibly a USB extension cord.
    ~ ~ How fast is fast enough? ~ ~ ~ ~ Tempo Cyclist - Tasmania ~ ~
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Note that USB Bluetooth dongles won't work. That only works using bridging via a smartphone.
  • tenohfive
    tenohfive Posts: 152
    If I'm looking at a Speed sensor I may as well go the rest of the way and get a cadence sensor too. If I go for the Wahoo Blue SC (more recent version) it's BTLE and ANT+ compatible, so I can get some use out of that when I'm out riding normally.

    Given that all the proposed sensors I'm looking at will talk to my smartphone by BT is bridging via smartphone/tablet a practical option, or am I looking at a better/more stable link by just spending the extra £25 for a USB ANT+ stick?
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    The Wahoo Blue SC is really old. Get the Wahoo RPM separate speed and candence sensors.
  • tenohfive
    tenohfive Posts: 152
    Cool, changed my order. Went for the Blue initially as it's an all in one sensor and if I do carry on using my watch for normal riding (I'm veering towards using my smartphone now) it'll only recognise one or other sensor, not both S&C.
    Changed to the RPM now if that's likely to be better.

    Thanks for the tips.
  • neil h
    neil h Posts: 499
    markhewitt1978 wrote:
    The Wahoo Blue SC is really old. Get the Wahoo RPM separate speed and candence sensors.

    It maybe an old design but if it ain't broke. I've just bought a Blue SC as the reviews for the separate RPM/Speed sensors seemed to suggest that the accuracy can be a little flakey.
  • tenohfive
    tenohfive Posts: 152
    Wahoo RPM S&C sensors arrived today. Created a Zwift account but I'm hitting a (granted, minor) roadblock - the tablet will only recognise either the Speed or the Cadence sensor when running the Zwift Mobile Link. I can select either (the Speed sensor and enter the turbo details) but if I then try to add the Cadence sensor it drops the connection to the Speed sensor.

    Is there a workaround to get both sensors (and my HRM, although there don't appear to be any issues there) to connect via BTLE and the ZML app or do I need to look at an ANT+ dongle and get Speed on BTLE and Cadence on ANT+ ?
  • myideal
    myideal Posts: 231
    Hum this could be th android app issue again. I know I had something similar when I tried to use Zwift on my laptop and used the bridge as it wouldn't find my smart trainer.

    However got the iOS app and bang all works perfectly over Bluetooth no issues. Honestly can't say how perfect the app is, it just makes everything work like it should.
  • tenohfive
    tenohfive Posts: 152
    I pinged Zwift a ticket and they suggested I unpair any other unrelated bluetooth connections (speakers etc) and gradually re-add. That worked, so the ANT+ stick I bought can go back.

    A few questions following my first ride:

    1. Strava. Some random from the other side of the world is shown as having been on the same ride. I get how that works (with races etc) but is there any way to remove it?
    2. The Strava activity comes up as a virtual ride which is good; will this show up on my overall cycling stats (year to date etc) as part of my total km's cycled and if so is there any way to change this without making the activity private?
    3. Is there any reason I can't leave the Elite QR skewer on the wheel for normal riding to save a bit of faff when switching between road and turbo?
    4. I've realised I'm going to have to invest in a riser block - I started with one book supporting my front wheel and ended up stacking 9 inches of crappy paperbacks underneath to try and approximate my actual speed/output (basing this on my flat cruise speed on the road.) Not an elegant solution. Any recommendations?
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    1. No
    2. No
    3. That would be fine.
    4. No idea what riser blocks have to do with power output
  • tenohfive
    tenohfive Posts: 152
    The greater the weight on the back wheel, the harder it is to spin the wheel I guess. But I won't claim to understand the physics or nuances of the speed sensor - the long and short of it is that when I didn't put enough books under the front wheel I both felt like I was pointed downhill and my performance indicated likewise.
    But who knows, perhaps several weeks of binging on quality street has given me a performance advantage.
  • tenohfive
    tenohfive Posts: 152
    My missus wants to try out the turbo as well - occasional use to burn a few extra calories whilst watching re-runs of Downton. As such I'm not too worried about switching over S&C sensors onto her bike or signing her up to Zwift, but she does want a record of the activity uploading to Strava and to use a HRM with it.

    What can I set her up with that'll do simple indoor turbo sessions without all the bells and whistles? Strava doesn't appear to allow recording indoor sessions - should I get her to setup a Wahoo account or something else?
  • wongataa
    wongataa Posts: 1,001
    tenohfive wrote:
    4. I've realised I'm going to have to invest in a riser block - I started with one book supporting my front wheel and ended up stacking 9 inches of crappy paperbacks underneath to try and approximate my actual speed/output (basing this on my flat cruise speed on the road.) Not an elegant solution. Any recommendations?
    The riser block is just to level the bike as a turbo raises the back end up a bit so if the front wheel is not lifted the bike tilts forward a bit. The goal is to end up with the bike level just as it would be if you were on a flat road. The riser block won't have any effect on rider performance unless the tilt from not having one makes you slide forward too much.
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    tenohfive wrote:

    What can I set her up with that'll do simple indoor turbo sessions without all the bells and whistles? Strava doesn't appear to allow recording indoor sessions - should I get her to setup a Wahoo account or something else?

    Try Cyclemeter that'll record your session and then you can upload to Strava as a workout.
  • tenohfive
    tenohfive Posts: 152
    Perfect, thanks.
  • tenohfive
    tenohfive Posts: 152
    wongataa wrote:
    tenohfive wrote:
    4. I've realised I'm going to have to invest in a riser block - I started with one book supporting my front wheel and ended up stacking 9 inches of crappy paperbacks underneath to try and approximate my actual speed/output (basing this on my flat cruise speed on the road.) Not an elegant solution. Any recommendations?
    The riser block is just to level the bike as a turbo raises the back end up a bit so if the front wheel is not lifted the bike tilts forward a bit. The goal is to end up with the bike level just as it would be if you were on a flat road. The riser block won't have any effect on rider performance unless the tilt from not having one makes you slide forward too much.

    That's what was happening - I felt like I was tilted forwards; that reduced the weight on the back end and it was easier to spin the roller. I got a few books stacked well enough to get me level but an actual front wheel block arrived today - I went with the Elite Su-Sta so I can a) make sure it's adjusted to the right height, and b) simulate (ish) hills if the inclination takes me.

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