Stem Help

KevinA
KevinA Posts: 492
edited December 2016 in Road buying advice
Hi Everyone

I am needing some help with a new stem, I have been looking for a new for a while but wasn't sure what I was wanting, I am looking for a more aggressive position and found the below pic and want to try this.

What I am needing help with is;

Do you think a 17 degree drop would be similar to this and a good place to start or is that a drastic percentage

Would I need to take the spacers that are under my current stem off and would that require sewing the excess off?

Thanks


http://theradavist.com/wp-content/uploa ... 35x892.jpg
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Comments

  • Moonbiker
    Moonbiker Posts: 1,706
    You could just remove spacers from below the current stem then maybe you wouldn't need to buy a new stem.

    Put the spacers back above stem like in picture

    Stems-9.jpg
  • flasher
    flasher Posts: 1,734
    Start with moving your spacers from below the stem you already have to above the stem, and see how you get on.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    The pic in your link looks like a 17deg drop (the guy in the pic is hilarious), but if you have spacers under your stem, try swapping them over first. There is no particular need to trim the steerer, although too much protruding above the stem usually looks a bit daft.
  • smoggysteve
    smoggysteve Posts: 2,909
    You could buy some bars with a deeper drop on them this would help achieve the more aggressive position while on the drops but still offer a more relaxed position on the hoods
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    Thanks guys

    Def give that a try. Always pictured spacers above the stem to look stupid and out of place but suppose as long as it's not too many it doesn't look bad at all.
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    Imposter wrote:
    The pic in your link looks like a 17deg drop (the guy in the pic is hilarious), but if you have spacers under your stem, try swapping them over first. There is no particular need to trim the steerer, although too much protruding above the stem usually looks a bit daft.

    How much would a trim be if it was too much?
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    KevinA wrote:
    Imposter wrote:
    The pic in your link looks like a 17deg drop (the guy in the pic is hilarious), but if you have spacers under your stem, try swapping them over first. There is no particular need to trim the steerer, although too much protruding above the stem usually looks a bit daft.

    How much would a trim be if it was too much?

    Not sure how much a shop would charge - but it's unlikely to be cheaper than buying a steerer cutter guide and having a go yourself: http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJWSTSG/j ... -saw-guide
  • smoggysteve
    smoggysteve Posts: 2,909
    KevinA wrote:
    Imposter wrote:
    The pic in your link looks like a 17deg drop (the guy in the pic is hilarious), but if you have spacers under your stem, try swapping them over first. There is no particular need to trim the steerer, although too much protruding above the stem usually looks a bit daft.

    How much would a trim be if it was too much?

    Be sure you are comfortable and happy with any position you move to before you start cutting steerer tubes cos there is no going back once you do. You could end up dropping down and thinking all is great but you could end up uncomfortable or dropping your overall power output if your angles are all wrong. A slammed stem may look cooler but it can be detrimental to your performance.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    You don't need a steerer cutting guide - I clamp an old stem at the height of where you want to cut, get a hack saw and cut along the top of the stem - File or sand down to smooth, clean out any filings, job jobbed.

    Take the old bit, smash it with a hammer, chuck it Int next door's garden.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    Perfect. Fingers crossed it doesn't come to that.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    That bike in the piccie does look cool though - he just needs toll his bars back a target to level them and he's there.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Oh - and once you're sorted position wise, cut off the excess - safety and looks.

    If you cut it 5mm below the top of the stem it'll all clamp together nicely, otherwise one 5mm spacer above does it. None of this 5 spacers above rubbish.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    Yeah I will fix it tomorrow and post come pics up.

    Bike is wicked. I've just got tbe black and grey one
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    KevinA wrote:
    Imposter wrote:
    The pic in your link looks like a 17deg drop (the guy in the pic is hilarious), but if you have spacers under your stem, try swapping them over first. There is no particular need to trim the steerer, although too much protruding above the stem usually looks a bit daft.

    How much would a trim be if it was too much?

    Be sure you are comfortable and happy with any position you move to before you start cutting steerer tubes cos there is no going back once you do. You could end up dropping down and thinking all is great but you could end up uncomfortable or dropping your overall power output if your angles are all wrong. A slammed stem may look cooler but it can be detrimental to your performance.

    Yeah won't be cutting it until I'm 100% happy and cutting it would be the last resort
  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,719
    For if/when you do cut the steerer, get a pipe cutter from a DIY store. It takes a little longer, but ensures a perpendicular cut, and is generally cheaper than a saw guide.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Don't know about 'generally cheaper' - a decent pipe cutter (one that will fit steerer diameter) is going to be between £25-45.
  • smoggysteve
    smoggysteve Posts: 2,909
    I've built up dozens of bikes. When I cut the steerers I have just used a hacksaw with a 36tpi blade and some black tape as a guide. Never had an issue. Never used a pipe cutter. Just rotate the cutting area as you go to avoid carbon splinters
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    Spoke to my LBS and they will cut the steerer tube for £40 so going to take the stem down and try it out over the the next month and if all goes well I will take it to them to do. £40 isn't bad.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    It's not bad, it's insane for 2 minutes with a hacksaw.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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    Parktools
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    KevinA wrote:
    Spoke to my LBS and they will cut the steerer tube for £40 so going to take the stem down and try it out over the the next month and if all goes well I will take it to them to do. £40 isn't bad.

    As pointed out, £40 is daylight fking robbery. A steerer cutter will cost you £15 tops, so you will save £25 on the first job, and £40 everytime you need to cut a steerer thereafter.
  • paulmon
    paulmon Posts: 315
    Just to add to this. If you think you might sell the bike in the future then cutting the stem too much will reduce your market dramatically.
  • nicklong
    nicklong Posts: 231
    KevinA wrote:
    Spoke to my LBS and they will cut the steerer tube for £40 so going to take the stem down and try it out over the the next month and if all goes well I will take it to them to do. £40 isn't bad.

    If a shop near me wanted to charge £40 for that I'd name and shame them PDQ. It's a fiver if anything, of you bought a new Cervelo from them it should be free!

    It's cutting a carbon or aluminium pipe, it's not engineering. A kid in woodwork class would do it for pic'n'mix. Just get a decent hacksaw blade as per above and watch a video on YouTube.

    Or, if you're in Shropshire I'll undercut your LBS by a fiver!
  • jameses
    jameses Posts: 653
    £40 is stupid expensive - my LBS did mine for £10.
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    Never bought the bike from them but starting to think it is a bit drastic. I know its not a lot of money and its affordable but just because its affordable doesn't mean I have to part with my cash.

    Going to try and get a quote from the dreaded Evans
  • KevinA
    KevinA Posts: 492
    Phoned Evans and they are £15 if its just the fork or £25 if I take the bike in.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    That's a rip off - massive.

    As above, it's a 2 minute job: a tenner, no more - and that's being far too generous.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • flasher
    flasher Posts: 1,734
    How on earth is it a 2 minute job, wheel out, brake off, handle bars off, mark, cut, re-build. 30 minutes minimum done properly. As a shop you have to pay rent, utilities, wages etc. etc.

    Tbh. if I owned a shop I'd probably be charging closer to £40 than £10, however if you bought the bike from me it'd be free :)
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Tosh 30 mins minimum. Tenner it is. Maybe even get the guy a coffee. You don't even need to take the whole lot apart if you know what you're doing.

    If that job takes your LBS 30 mins how long does it take them to recable and aero bike? 3 weeks.

    And at that logic: £40 for half an hours work = £80 an hour. I know doctors who earn less than that.

    If you're happy to pay £40 for a steerer trim can I be your personal mechanic? I'll even do "mates rates".
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    KevinA wrote:
    Never bought the bike from them but starting to think it is a bit drastic. I know its not a lot of money and its affordable but just because its affordable doesn't mean I have to part with my cash.

    Going to try and get a quote from the dreaded Evans


    Nothing wrong with Evans - they have the same chance as anyone else of employing someone who knows what they are doing or not. LBS' aren't immune to employing monkeys ............ I can name 3 in a 10 mile radius from my house that I wouldn't trust to pump up my tires.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • flasher
    flasher Posts: 1,734
    Tosh 30 mins minimum. Tenner it is. Maybe even get the guy a coffee. You don't even need to take the whole lot apart if you know what you're doing.

    If that job takes your LBS 30 mins how long does it take them to recable and aero bike? 3 weeks.

    And at that logic: £40 for half an hours work = £80 an hour. I know doctors who earn less than that.

    If you're happy to pay £40 for a steerer trim can I be your personal mechanic? I'll even do "mates rates".

    You're missing the point, for a shop it's business, if you want a mate to do it in his shed that's fine too, but not the same.