Steel not stainless steel bolts, stem and parts

Hi My first post here,
I am trying to make my bike as secure as is reasonably possible. One thing I am going to try is replacing some of the hex nut/bolts to steel ones so that they are magnetic. I then can drop in some Hexlox (little security magnets).
https://hexlox.com
Is there any mechanical problem with doing this apart from possible rust? I think normal steel is stronger than stainless?
Also will I be able to find the right sizes? The first one is going to be the stem bolt and I am looking at the hex nut on my Maxel Stealth bolt thru axel to do the same.
If successful then my wheels and bars will be a lot more secure.
So any bike techs/engineers see any problems with steel not stainless bolts? Some are already steel, like on the handle bar clamp.
Cheers,
Carl
I am trying to make my bike as secure as is reasonably possible. One thing I am going to try is replacing some of the hex nut/bolts to steel ones so that they are magnetic. I then can drop in some Hexlox (little security magnets).
https://hexlox.com
Is there any mechanical problem with doing this apart from possible rust? I think normal steel is stronger than stainless?
Also will I be able to find the right sizes? The first one is going to be the stem bolt and I am looking at the hex nut on my Maxel Stealth bolt thru axel to do the same.
If successful then my wheels and bars will be a lot more secure.
So any bike techs/engineers see any problems with steel not stainless bolts? Some are already steel, like on the handle bar clamp.
Cheers,
Carl
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If you are leaving your bike in places where people will unbolt components, spend the money on a cheap beater bike.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
I am actually getting rid of my QR bolt-thru axle for one with a just hex bolt. If it turns out that the hex bolt is ferrite then I will drop in a Hexlox. That will help stop the opportunists who have a hex tools from getting the front wheel and means I do not have to take the wheel off to lock it to the frame. Hexlox make a magnetic insert but would prefer just a steel bolt.
I thought a bike mech/engineer may be able to answer this. "Is there any mechanical problem with doing this (using steel not stainless) apart from possible rust? I think normal steel is stronger than stainless?"
I notice that the bolts available for BMX seem to be steel not stainless.
Just asking about steel vs stainless in case there is a safety issue, stress limit etc.
Oh and I don't jump off of buildings just street and single track with a few not epic drops.
(edited as I missed the NOT out....)
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
The caliper was rubbish so I hope the thief put it on their bike and crashed.
If you replace every bolt on your bike with those things, you could have bought two new bikes and a new caliper.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
I am obviously not going to do that. It will take four to secure the main bits.
Ha really funny how everybody is so concerned about me spending £50.
The old fashioned way of doing it was to super glue a tiny bearing in the hex hole and use solvent to get it out. Messy.
Yeah if they really want it they will get it but will need an angle grinder with a £20 cutter to get through the M18 Kryptonite lock first. They would need a nice portable power drill to get at the Hexlox. The bike also has over 100 data dots, laser etched tags and tamper stickers (came with the insurance). Not a mega bike, I just don't like bike thieves.
Now to add satellite tracking and a remote self destruct mode....
For £50 you could get a half decent used commuter bike. I've done thousands of miles on an old hybrid commuter I bought for less than that.
It's worth remembering that thieves are not nice people. If they can't get the bits they want to steal then they'll probably just vandalise your bike instead.
Ah hem I just got the axle and apart from the fact is is too long (my fault) my plan won't work anyway due to the design. I thought it had a nut but its all one piece. Not sure such a thing exists for my forks.
Yeah you are right a cheap work bike is a good idea for when I get some more space, save the poncy boutique custom trail bike for the single track. Lets see how long I hang on to this one.
Well I did and I'm coming back to sue you! 8)
jeez :roll:
Yep, lots of bike fasteners have non standard heads, either undersized diameter or low profile head.
Some, like caliper and disc bolts are high tensile. Disc bolts have torx sockets to take higher torque for the tiny screws without rounding the socket.
and don't break so actually they are better. IF they however are lower quality they can
rust. This does not change the strength in the short to mid term which means
still years of operation until it looks not so good. They you can replace them again.
Hexlox would offer a good protection I think for you and I know the game in London after having lived there myself for many years. Ride on!
Thanks jwizard good info. I am failing to find a non QR Bolt-thru front axle for my X-Fusion RL2s. I can find ones that nearly fit from Fox Kabolt Maxle but none that actually really are the right length.
Robert Axle http://RobertAxleProject.com eMailed me and said
We are building:
(length x thread diameter x thread pitch)
145mm x M14 x1.5 - Fox
148mm x M15 x 1.5 - Rock Shox
But not X-Fusion yet...