Ultegra 6800 BB cups wider than the older one I think so leave NDS spacer out?
Just got round to replacing my bottom bracket. Was Shimano Ultegra 6700 possibly, something like that (see pic in first post of this thread). New one Shimano Ultegra 6800 BB. I put the plastic spacer on the drive side back, put crank spindle through BB hole, had to use a rubber mallet to whack it across fully, I think I got it across fully, put the NDS spacer (a more substantial thing than the DS plastic spacer) back and started put the NDS crank back on but noticed there's much less spindle sticking out; not a satisfactory amount for the NDS crank arm to clamp onto. So I took off the more substantial NDS spacer and put the crank arm on without it. Is that right? Seems the 6800 BB cups are wider. Thanks.
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All this talk of spacers on a road bike suggests it's a triple chainset? If so, the spindle's longer so you need both DS and NDS spacers.
Something's not right with yours by the sound of it.
A correctly installed 5800 BB should be the same overall width as the 6700 it replaced. Did you clean out and grease the threads in the BB before installation? And did you install the cups with the plastic tube between them?0 -
keef66 wrote:All this talk of spacers on a road bike suggests it's a triple chainset? If so, the spindle's longer so you need both DS and NDS spacers.
Something's not right with yours by the sound of it.
A correctly installed 5800 BB should be the same overall width as the 6700 it replaced. Did you clean out and grease the threads in the BB before installation? And did you install the cups with the plastic tube between them?
Yes, it's a triple, sorry forgot to mention that. I did clean it well and totally. Put new grease in though. OK I'll go and have another look at it with, both spacers should be in, in mind. Where should the end of the spindle come to in relation to the crank? Possibly not easy to answer that, but anyway… Thanks, will go and look at it again now.0 -
I too have a triple (old 10 speed 105) which I've swapped back and forth between 2 bikes for different reasons, so I'm now fairly familiar with how it goes together. Never needed a mallet; just a smart smack with the flat of my hand to get it through. The spindle doesn't come all the way through the NDS crank arm, there needs to be a bit of room for the little screw-in plastic preload cap to work. And don't over-tighten it; just finger tight to put a small preload on the bearings then nip up the 2 pinch bolts alternately a bit at a time till they are both tight.0
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Have a gander at:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BP3-XGWWqc
I know it's a double chainset but it shows you how the end of the spindle's recessed in the NDS crank. Yours should look like that with the spacers installed.0 -
Re mallet, it was just a bit hard to get the spindle in, I think just first time. Not so bad now. I said "whack" it through, more firm tap it through.
Right, I think this it: I was just expecting the end of the spindle to be closer to the outside edge of the crank. On that video there's a lot of distance between the end of the spindle and the outside edge of the crank – that is the spindle end falls well short of the edge of the crank. Plus I don't have a tool which fits in that metal preload cap, that's not helping. But mainly it would appear fine and normal for the spindle not to reach anywhere near the outside edge of the cranks. I think I was just mistaken that it was too short. I've got 18mm of spindle sticking out (that measurement is without the NDS spacer on but with the DS spacer on). Thanks.0 -
Sounds about right. You do really need the little tool to tighten the preload cap though (is yours metal? all 3 of my Shimano cranksets have plastic ones). You'll likely mash it or over-tighten it trying to use anything else.
Some BB tools come with one, alternatively you can buy them separately for bugger all
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-crank-i ... tech-ii-1/0 -
Yes I noticed that tool online when I was asking this question. Turned out not to matter that much, not having one but next time I order something I'll get one. Yup, it's a metal preload cap. Thanks.0
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Shiamo HTII left hand crank arms do come with a mechanism that indicates whether the free spindle end is long enough to hold the crank arm or not.
It's a plastic thing with two holes (one of which open) and a metal pin bonded into the plastic. It is to be mounted inside the gap of the crank arms (where the pinch bolts are). Read the manual for details. You should use and understand this mechanism.0 -
> It's a plastic thing with two holes (one of which open) and a metal pin bonded into the plastic. It is to be mounted inside the gap of the crank arms (where the pinch bolts are). Read the manual for details. You should use and understand this mechanism
Right thanks for that. I have read bits of a few of the PDFs associated with the cranks and chainrings etc. but hadn't come across that.
Slightly embarrassingly, I realised a mistake I'd made in this. Wasn't going to bother saying this as presumably other people wouldn't be so silly. The plastic DS spacer I referred to above, wasn't, I don't think. Wasn't a spacer that is. I think it was part of the original cup/bearing unit. I removed it from the new setup. Doing so gave, can't remember exactly, something like 21 or 22mm of protruding spindle on NDS - that's how it is now. While it (the "spacer" which wasn't a spacer) was on, it was different to how it was before; the front derailleur didn't line up right with the chainrings anymore. Eg the front derailleur failed to be able to get the chain onto the large chainring.
On Shimano's SI-1G30E-001-ENG.pdf there is no spacer on the DS. That's how I've got it now and it all seems fine.
I'll look out for that device you're talking about. Thanks.0 -
ben----- wrote:... On Shimano's SI-1G30E-001-ENG.pdf there is no spacer on the DS. That's how I've got it now and it all seems fine.
I'll look out for that device you're talking about. Thanks.
Look at the right hand side (at the bottom) of that document. It makes reference to a so-called 'stopper plate'. That's the mechanism I was describing above. There is a radial drilling (approx. 3 or 4 mm in diameter) at the end of the spindle - the pin of the stopper plate needs to go inside this drilling. If that doesn't work, the free spindle end is too short.0 -
Oh yes, I've got that on there. Didn't understand what it was for. I will give that a better/proper look. Thanks for pointing that out.0
