FSA crank non-extractor
Using my massive cyclist arm strength I managed to bulge, strip and snap the extractor while attempting to remove the cranks.
I could fiddle around with bearing pullers or find a crank puller that fits or try a few smacks with a hammer but I'm tempted to just grind/cut the arm off.
I'm impressed that as well as making the fastest wearing chainrings in the universe, they have also designed the most useless extractor system in the world. Just over a year and its scrap.
I've got a lovely new Quarq power meter to go on (which unfortunately uses a very similar extracting system) but now its just sat here waiting in my lounge as I decided to take the sensible approach of sticking the crank bolt back on and leaving it till the weekend.
I could fiddle around with bearing pullers or find a crank puller that fits or try a few smacks with a hammer but I'm tempted to just grind/cut the arm off.
I'm impressed that as well as making the fastest wearing chainrings in the universe, they have also designed the most useless extractor system in the world. Just over a year and its scrap.
I've got a lovely new Quarq power meter to go on (which unfortunately uses a very similar extracting system) but now its just sat here waiting in my lounge as I decided to take the sensible approach of sticking the crank bolt back on and leaving it till the weekend.
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Comments
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I've never completely trusted those self-extracting bolts. Sometimes they work but often aren't strong enough to remove a stubborn crank. Use a real crank extractor and either sell or donate the intact crank rather than turning it into scrap.0
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You did turn the bolt the correct way did you?
the 'LH' and 'tighten' refer to the ring not the bolt. I't's not the best bit of product labelling that i've ever seen0 -
Indeed, never had an issue with self extracting bolts, hard to believe the arm was that seized on that you snapped the retaining bolt, besides as it undoes and works against the extraction ring it compresses making snapping it even harder!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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The Rookie wrote:Indeed, never had an issue with self extracting bolts, hard to believe the arm was that seized on that you snapped the retaining bolt, besides as it undoes and works against the extraction ring it compresses making snapping it even harder!0
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crankycrank wrote:I've never completely trusted those self-extracting bolts. Sometimes they work but often aren't strong enough to remove a stubborn crank. Use a real crank extractor and either sell or donate the intact crank rather than turning it into scrap.
The real crank extractor I've got is too small. I don't know if an ISIS or octolink one would fit (or a search turns up a lot of scooter crank pullers). I'm not sure how good the threads left are, the extractor extracted some of them.
It looks like there is enough of a gap between the crank and the bottom bracket to get a bearing puller in, a bit of heat on the alloy and it should pop off pretty easily.0 -
Didn't move with a proper extractor and a reasonable amount of heat, eventually the remaining threads ripped out. Even took a fair bit of force to knock it off once I had cut through the crank and it didn't suddenly break free like a normal tapered shaft.0
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Just took the replacement Quarq off to give the bike a spring clean, came off as smooth as anything. Possibly even easier than a Shimano crank.0