10 speed hydraulic disc brake options
jds_1981
Posts: 1,858
I have cable pasted disc brakes on my cx bike.
This has 10 speed shifters.
The rear brake quickly becomes stiff and poorly performing.
Are there any cheap options for converting the rear to hydraulic?
I've seen various options that convert at the calipers but really I'd prefer nearer the handlebars as I suspect I'm losing quite a bit of power through the long wire pull cable and dirt infiltration to that.
Thanks.
This has 10 speed shifters.
The rear brake quickly becomes stiff and poorly performing.
Are there any cheap options for converting the rear to hydraulic?
I've seen various options that convert at the calipers but really I'd prefer nearer the handlebars as I suspect I'm losing quite a bit of power through the long wire pull cable and dirt infiltration to that.
Thanks.
FCN 9 || FCN 5
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I've got a TRP Parabox, fits under the stem and has been fit and forget. cables the length of the handlebars and hydraulic from there down. The one I bought was an ex-demo unit and was a bit of a pain to fit, but it was cheap. I don't know if they still sell them but you may find a used one. Uses Shimano mineral oil which is the same as LHM that you can buy from a car spares shop for a fraction of the price.0
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I had seen that, now much availability around, this is the cheapest I've found (just now)
http://www.hpv-parts.de/epages/63540537 ... cale=en_GB
I suppose that's not too bad a price when the other option of going 1*10 around be over a hundred
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobi ... lsrc=aw.dsFCN 9 || FCN 50 -
One option might be to get a Hylex brake and move to a single front chainring set up, or put a friction shifter somewhere for the front derailleur.
If you aren't already doing so, make sure you're using compressionless brake outer, as that can make a big difference to rear brake performance - and if you don't already run it full length to reduce dirt & water ingress.
edit - you read my mind....0 -
jds_1981 wrote:I had seen that, now much availability around, this is the cheapest I've found (just now)
http://www.hpv-parts.de/epages/63540537 ... cale=en_GB
There's also the Hope V-Twin, which is pretty much the same thing.Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
I see that Giant have got their own conversion system on next years bikes, I don't know if they're selling them on their own yet but I had a play with one in a shop yesterday lunchtime and they seemed decent. Looked good too.Saracen Tenet 3 - 2015 - Dead - Replaced with a Hack Frame
Voodoo Bizango - 2014 - Dead - Hit by a car
Vitus Sentier VRS - 20170 -
TRP Hyrd is the easiest way, but you do need compressionless outer cable tooleft the forum March 20230
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First diagnose the problem. is it the caliper getting stiff or the cable getting stiff. if the latter then is it due to cable run leaving it prone to contamination?0
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If you run sram you could just go with a sram apex 1 hydraulic rhs?http://www.georgesfoundation.org
http://100hillsforgeorge.blogspot.com/
http://www.12on12in12.blogspot.co.uk/0 -
alan sherman wrote:First diagnose the problem. is it the caliper getting stiff or the cable getting stiff. if the latter then is it due to cable run leaving it prone to contamination?
I /think/ it is mainly two problems,
firstly the disc brake mechanism itself seems relatively smooth, therefore I think it is mainly contamination that works its way into the cable. The outer is a full run down to the brake itself though and the only opening is at the brake mechanism which can't really be shielded. Possibly the length of the cable is a bit of an issue too, there will be a certain amount of friction in there by virtue of how long it is.
My commute is along a very muddy path so it's inevitable that dirt will work itself in within a few days.
secondly, I suspect there is a little contamination on the pads/brakes themselves. Not much though.
I have previously managed to get the whole mechanism fairly smooth by pressure washing it. I don't really want to be doing this on my daily commuter.
My thought around hydraulic is it will remove the (generally unavoidable) with cable opening at the caliper end and so my problems will be endedFCN 9 || FCN 50 -
I don't think they're available anymore, but Gore Ride-On brake cables are superb and, although I hardly ever use my rear brake, work well when I need them to. Pressure washing a bike is always a risky thing to do - water gets where it shouldn't.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0
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Some availability
http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/gore-ride-onCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0