Dropped headset further in the tube
Hello,
As per the subject of the topic... made a really stupid mistake and unscrewed the headset without the top cap on and of course the headset dropped way further down to the point I can't take it out. As I commuted with the bike today, I have to find a local to the office bike shop that is not fully booked for the day (pretty much impossible task). Any idea how to take it out without having to visit a bike shop?
As per the subject of the topic... made a really stupid mistake and unscrewed the headset without the top cap on and of course the headset dropped way further down to the point I can't take it out. As I commuted with the bike today, I have to find a local to the office bike shop that is not fully booked for the day (pretty much impossible task). Any idea how to take it out without having to visit a bike shop?
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turn it upside down and jiggle ?
if it was loose enough to drop down, in theory it should be loose enough to drop up (down)0 -
Tried, but it did not work. I guess I have to try harder.0
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I'm confused, what part of the headset unscrews?
What part of a headset can drop down?
I can only assume your talking about an expander bung in the steerer?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Expander bung can be hooked back out with a metal coat hanger bent into a hook at one end ..... I am guesing you don't have metal coat hangers at work0
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Sometimes the mechanic will do a quick fix for you if it's an easy job.
Cycle republic have removed a pedal for me and Cycle Surgery have changed a shifter cable (snapped in shifter) and fixed some dicky brakes.
All as a walk in customer.
You can get metal coathangers from a dry cleaner.0 -
Get a piece of dowling (about the thickness of a pencil) use pencil sharpener to make a point on the end, then poke down to the bung and screw into the threaded end, pull out. Depending on how far down it is you may even be able to use a pencil to do it.Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
Van Raam 'O' Pair
Land Rover (really nasty weather )0 -
Exactly ... dropped the bung. Rookie mistake. Will try taking it out again at lunch. I have a clicking noise to sort out as well that is coming from the headset.0
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Managed to take it out by shaking the bike. All fine now, completely reassembled. 8)0
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You rode the bike without the expander plug?0
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You don't need them once they have done the job of cinching everything up.0
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Bondurant wrote:You don't need them once they have done the job of cinching everything up.
Sorry but this is (almost) certainly not true. Expander bungs are normally only used with a carbon steerer (metal steerers use a star fanged nut) and the expander bung is also there to reinforce the steerer over the portion where the stem clamps onto it. Wouldn't normally correct anyone but this could be dangerous.0 -
The main reason for expander plugs over star nuts is that star nuts, by design, scrape and score their way down the steerer tube, which is not a good idea for carbon. Hence expander plugs which just 'push out' a grippy surface.
As for how much they 'reinforce' the steerer tube, this, as with many cycling subjects, has mixed views.
I've tried to crush a piece of steerer tube in a vice and gave up after making no impression on it whatsoever.
And if it were so critical to reinforce clamped carbon tubes, then why not have a bung in your seatpost?
I leave my bung in simply because it's more convenient like that, but I don't think Specialized et al. are making steerer tubes that would fail without one.0 -
bernithebiker wrote:The main reason for expander plugs over star nuts is that star nuts, by design, scrape and score their way down the steerer tube, which is not a good idea for carbon. Hence expander plugs which just 'push out' a grippy surface.
As for how much they 'reinforce' the steerer tube, this, as with many cycling subjects, has mixed views.
I've tried to crush a piece of steerer tube in a vice and gave up after making no impression on it whatsoever.
And if it were so critical to reinforce clamped carbon tubes, then why not have a bung in your seatpost?
I leave my bung in simply because it's more convenient like that, but I don't think Specialized et al. are making steerer tubes that would fail without one.
Well each to their own but I dont think the manual for my Spesh frame says the bung is vital to reinforce the steerer because it isnt.0 -
Scott are similarly risk-averse in their advice; their bungs sit slightly proud of the top of the steerer, and they don't allow a spacer above the stem presumably because this would mean the stem is clamping below the bung.
You can safely remove the top cap and bolt once the bearings are preloaded and the steerer's clamped if you like the weight saving. It will look a bit daft though, and you may suffer from rainwater falling down the steerer and corroding the bung mechanism.
And you'll need to remember where you put them if ever you need to replace the stem or headset bearings...0 -
Just to close this off... I wasn't recommending riding around without an expander. I was just saying that not having one wouldn't necessarily make your bike unsafe to ride.
I don't know how much people are tightening up the stem on their steerer tubes, but if it will be crushed without a bung inside it, then I'd suggest it is rather too tight in the first place.0 -
AK_jnr wrote:You rode the bike without the expander plug?0