RochShoxs service schedule and flex mod

dennnicdennnic Posts: 7
edited November 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
Hello,

my first posts on this forum :) .... so if there's already a similar subject that I don't know of, don't be too judgy :lol:

I bought some second handed forks today! Rock shox rebas, after wanting them for some ten years, today is the day! :D
Anyway, its a RL, 100mm, dual air, QR setup and according to serial number on the back, its a 2011 year model. Which makes it already 5 years old. Its in pretty decent shape, well, at least looking it from outside. Who knows its history and a number of owners, but, thats what you get for hundred euros.

I ask for a few advice - which parts should I replace?
Oil change is a must, but there's as well some pretty cheap service kits on ebay - dust wipers, foam rings, oil seals etc.. Is that recommended to do after 5-6 years? Or should I do a bit more - valves, bushings?


As for a flex part, I've seen a lot of complains for too much flex while braking. A friend of mine with SID also reported that it is a bit flexy sometimes. And mine rebas is one with a QR axle.
I'd love to extend the travel to 120mm if possible (with removal of spacer), but since I'm over 90kg (200lb), I'm afraid It'll introduce more flex in it. Anyone with such an experience? Advice?
Would a solid axle, instead of this QR joke, help?

Thanks in advance! 8)

Posts

  • RockmonkeySCRockmonkeySC Posts: 15,247
    To change the axle you'll need to swap the lowers and you'll need the correct size hub.
    Increasing travel will increase flex and not all Rebas can have travel increased.
    Flex while braking isn't really a problem. Flex makes it difficult to hold a line or steer accurately over rough ground.
    At 5-6 years, assuming it's not been done before, the damping fluid will be well past it. They'll also be due new damper seals and a full air spring rebuild. All that should be done annually. Lower seals about twice a year and lower lube once every few months.
  • I was thinking about more of a simpler solution, as of:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/rs/e ... -prod40544
    Changing lowers and then front hub would cost three times as much as the fork itself.

    By full air spring rebuild, did you mean the replacement of all O rings, putting grease and new oil?
  • RockmonkeySCRockmonkeySC Posts: 15,247
    Those axles make 20p for the swearbox all difference.
    Even with a proper 15mm axle it's a flexible fork.
    You need fresh seals and lubricants for dampers and air spring. Around £100 to get it done professionally or around £50 for all the seals, cleaning fluids, damping oil and lubricants to do it yourself
  • Obviously depends on where you are, but Riverside Cycles in Maldon, essex, serviced my Rebas last year for £60.
  • RockmonkeySCRockmonkeySC Posts: 15,247
    For £60 I doubt you're getting a full service. To service dampers, lowers and air spring is a good couple hours work to do properly plus the cost of seal kits and oils.
    I'd only send forks to a suspension specialist for servicing.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,519
    I've never changed o-rings and never had one fail, I'd just do dust seals and foams rings and a full lower clean out and relube, easy DIY.
  • RockmonkeySCRockmonkeySC Posts: 15,247
    I change lower lube every three months, new seals every six months. Full damper and spring service once a year.
    Being a geeky engineer I enjoy doing it!
    I've seen o rings cracked after a year which could lead to an air spring running dry or suddenly losing air. A rebound damper losing oil mid ride could potentially result in a big crash, especially if you hit a jump without realising it's gone.
  • Well, good thinking, but I doubt someone has done that (lubing o and foam rings) regularly before on mine. How about buying some similar fork oil (according to producers chats), all the kit (o rings, seals) and doing the service myself? I'd like to add, that I didn't do that or anything similar before. Just been threw some manuals and youtube videos...
    The problem is, its very hard to find a decent specialist in my area. There's one official service around, but they've been having a lot of complaints recently.

    A word about the flex again.. If possible, would you do or recommend adjusting travel to 120 on QR axle?
  • I change lower lube every three months, new seals every six months. Full damper and spring service once a year.

    So, its up to a £100 per year just for a regular maintenance? How much do you drive your bike?
  • RockmonkeySCRockmonkeySC Posts: 15,247
    dennnic wrote:
    I change lower lube every three months, new seals every six months. Full damper and spring service once a year.

    So, its up to a £100 per year just for a regular maintenance? How much do you drive your bike?

    I don't pay that myself. I design and build prototype suspension for very high performance cars for a living so I do it myself.
    My fork was around £600 (rrp) so £100 a year isn't too bad.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,519
    dennnic wrote:
    Well, good thinking, but I doubt someone has done that (lubing o and foam rings) regularly before on mine. How about buying some similar fork oil (according to producers chats), all the kit (o rings, seals) and doing the service myself? I'd like to add, that I didn't do that or anything similar before. Just been threw some manuals and youtube videos...
    The problem is, its very hard to find a decent specialist in my area. There's one official service around, but they've been having a lot of complaints recently.

    A word about the flex again.. If possible, would you do or recommend adjusting travel to 120 on QR axle?
    DIYing it isn't at all hard, it may look complex but follow each stage in turn and each task is easy.

    As for o-rings, properly specified ones should never crack, its cheap and nasty ones that do, my Manitous had no new o-rings in ten years but was behaving exactly as intended. My SID's are 7 years old and had almost certainly never been serviced when I got them, a lower service (no o-rings) and they are great.
  • I did SID o rings as had negative chamber air leak. 24 mm socket and circlip pliers needed i used motorcycle fork oil which was much cheeper. A syringe is handy easily obtained from pharmacy. Use Sram website to get bits correct. Diy easy make sure work area clean take phone photos if needed for reasemlbly. An hour is about right.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,519
    Just to add re the flex, you can swap to a 9mm through axle if your hub will support it (no cup and cone will) for a tiny improvement, but you'll get just as much benefit using a decent quality QR with good clamping load like Shimano rather than a cheap and cheerful open cam one with a plastic bush.
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