Different tools for carbon?

courtmed

Just upgraded to my first carbon frame ( ) & now I'm wondering just how many, if any, new tools I'll need. From what I've read a torque wrench is pretty essential, do I need carbon paste for the seat post etc?

Thanks for your help!

bbrap

Thats it, carbon paste and a torque wrench/key. + don't clamp frame into a workstand too hard (if you have the clamp type stand). All the rest is common to any frame type.

compuwiz_uk

as above, thats all i bought extra when i got my carbon bike.

so far not used the torque wrench as i set the seatpost clamp at the shop i bought the bike from using there wrench & so far not touched it again but one day lol

neither has the grip paste been out of the toolbox as had no problems with slipping components so did not see the need in using it till i next time i give the bike a once over etc.

also one thing extra i do with the carbon bike over any of my other bikes is to wrap the seatpost in a strong cloth ( a thick surface cleaning cloth normally ) to protect the surface of the carbon seatpost from the clamp of the stand. - did not need to buy the cloths as i already had a ready supply as i use em often to clean & quick lube the chains after rides etc.

courtmed

Great, will pick those two things up and just use my usual kit. Cheers both!

sheffsimon

courtmed wrote:

Just upgraded to my first carbon frame ( ) & now I'm wondering just how many, if any, new tools I'll need. From what I've read a torque wrench is pretty essential, do I need carbon paste for the seat post etc?

Thanks for your help!

Torque wrench is not essential, in my experience. Just tighten things up sensibly, they don't need swinging on.

fenix

I've had carbon frames since my Giant TCR about 15 years back. Never needed a torque wrench.

Matthewfalle

Torque key is easier to use than a wrench (and cheaper for the ranges you need) so more likely you'll use it.

Carbon paste as above, maybe handy getting a spare seat post for work stand use.

proto

SheffSimon wrote:

Torque wrench is not essential, in my experience. Just tighten things up sensibly, they don't need swinging on.

I agree with this.

Matthewfalle

proto wrote:

SheffSimon wrote:

Torque wrench is not essential, in my experience. Just tighten things up sensibly, they don't need swinging on.

I agree with this.

Problem is, one mans sensible is another man's mash it to feck - tourque key takes all the potential problems out of the equation for a tender.

bbrap

Matthewfalle wrote:

proto wrote:

SheffSimon wrote:

Torque wrench is not essential, in my experience. Just tighten things up sensibly, they don't need swinging on.

I agree with this.

Problem is, one mans sensible is another man's mash it to feck - tourque key takes all the potential problems out of the equation for a tender.

Very sensible, after a couple of goes with a torque key I learnt how tight 5nm feels and I recon I now have calibrated fingers and no longer use the key. I think the main danger comes from the extra long hex keys which can put serious amounts of torque on a bolt if held at the end.

keezx

Matthewfalle wrote:

CUT - tourque key takes all the potential problems out of the equation for a tender.

Unfortunately, it doesn't.

Matthewfalle

Keezx wrote:

Matthewfalle wrote:

CUT - tourque key takes all the potential problems out of the equation for a tender.

Unfortunately, it doesn't.

Well, ok 99% of them then. Still better than letting a masher loose with an extra long Allen key and a length of scaffold.

keezx

Matthewfalle wrote:

Still better than letting a masher loose with an extra long Allen key and a length of scaffold.

While I can agree with that, this may give some better understanding why I never use a torquewrech on bikes:
http://james-p-smith.blogspot.nl/2011/0 ... ycles.html

mamba80

proto wrote:

SheffSimon wrote:

Torque wrench is not essential, in my experience. Just tighten things up sensibly, they don't need swinging on.

I agree with this.

i agree too, just tighten until you hear a slight cracking and then back off 1/2 a turn, sorted.

some people have more mechanical sympathy then others.

ayjaycee

Personally, I do not have a lot of confidence in my own ability to 'use the force' or whatever the others do to ensure that they do not over-tighten anything on a carbon bike and would therefore prefer the comfort blanket of a torque wrench / torque key which costs very little in comparison to a new frame. As I say, that's my personal opinion and only you can read the proffered advice and decide for yourself what you want to do and whether there is any risk attached to your chosen route. Also, congratulations if you manage to get through the entire article in the link supplied by keezx above - it's a hell of a lot more than I managed!

keezx

Well I'm Dutch and it made all perfectly sense for me, no problem at all.
As you mentioned, a torquewrench is mainly a comfort blanket for many people to give them some confidence they're doing right.
It is not a precision instrument and the system (the way it's used on bikes) gives no precise results.
Doesn't harm in general.....

ayjaycee

Keezx, I didn't say that I didn't understand it - I just found it intensely boring. But, hey, if that's the sort of thing that floats your boat, knock yourself out.

keezx

When you get older (I'm 64 now) you tend to forget that a lot of people don't have 50 years expierience in mechanics.
Good luck wrenching.... .

smoggysteve

mamba80 wrote:

proto wrote:

SheffSimon wrote:

Torque wrench is not essential, in my experience. Just tighten things up sensibly, they don't need swinging on.

I agree with this.

i agree too, just tighten until you hear a slight cracking and then back off 1/2 a turn, sorted.

some people have more mechanical sympathy then others.

I really hope this is tongue in cheek. As soon as you hear any slight cracking noise you are damaging your bike irreversibly. Do that on a seatpost and you may as well bin it as it will just become loose then you tighten more and you break it more then it slips again.....God forbid you do this on a front derailleur. Best buy carbon gripping compound and tighten a bit less than you 'think' is right.

keezx

Thought it was a joke when I read that....

Matthewfalle

SmoggySteve wrote:

mamba80 wrote:

proto wrote:

SheffSimon wrote:

Torque wrench is not essential, in my experience. Just tighten things up sensibly, they don't need swinging on.

I agree with this.

i agree too, just tighten until you hear a slight cracking and then back off 1/2 a turn, sorted.

some people have more mechanical sympathy then others.

I really hope this is tongue in cheek. As soon as you hear any slight cracking noise you are damaging your bike irreversibly. Do that on a seatpost and you may as well bin it as it will just become loose then you tighten more and you break it more then it slips again.....God forbid you do this on a front derailleur. Best buy carbon gripping compound and tighten a bit less than you 'think' is right.

Or use a torque key or wrench together with carbon paste (which you should use irrespective of whether you're using a key, wrench, fingers or scaffold.

Oh.

smoggysteve

I know you jest but I have known people think 'maybe just a little tighter' then crunch, snap, ping' followed by oh sh|t !

Bobbinogs

SmoggySteve wrote:

I know you jest but I have known people think 'maybe just a little tighter' then crunch, snap, ping' followed by oh sh|t !

Been there, done that!

smoggysteve

Bobbinogs wrote:

SmoggySteve wrote:

I know you jest but I have known people think 'maybe just a little tighter' then crunch, snap, ping' followed by oh sh|t !

Been there, done that!

Me too. On a carbon saddle rail. Amazing what power you can put through an alan key with just your fingers.