Alu w/Ultegra or carbon w/105 for old fat guy?

kj00
kj00 Posts: 15
edited June 2017 in Road buying advice
Hi experts, I just registerd here especially to ask the classic question: Alu or carbon, frame or equipmet? Also wheels...

About myself:

I restarted biking on this summer after 27 years break, and could grab an old mountain bike only. But I am an old roadie in mind and use the mtb not for that is designed. I do ~100 kms (~60 miles) per ride on weekends and the half of that on weekdays after work, only on roads, and am not satisfied with the average speed neiter the distance. When someone overtakes me on a bike then I can easily follow him at ~30 kmps (~19 mph) speed, but no more on my tractor. I would like to step a level, do 160 kms (100 miles) per day on 35 kmph (~22 mph) regular cruising speed resulting in an average of 28-30 kmph (~18-19 mph) therefore would change to a road bike.

I have two options on my budget:
  • Alu with full ultegra groupset, compact (50-34) crank, Mavic Cosmic wheels
  • Carbon with full 105 groupset, semi compact (52-36) crank, Mavic Aksium wheels

I can try none of the two, both can be ordered on web only.

What is your vote in my situation?

Thank you!

Comments

  • bbrap
    bbrap Posts: 610
    I would try some bikes at a local bike shop even if you intend to buy online. A road bike needs to fit properly and buying online will not allow you to compare sizes/fit of different makes. I took all measurements from my existing bike before buying online after looking at the frame dimension charts. You do not have that luxury as you currently have a mountain bike.

    Regarding your choices, get the one that fits you best.
    Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
    Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
    Van Raam 'O' Pair
    Land Rover (really nasty weather :lol: )
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    edited November 2016
    If you can "cruise" 100 miles at 22mph then that would be something...although after a 27 year break it may take you a while to get to where you want to be.

    If you have been off a road bike for that long then you may find that, as well as your legs, your flexibility and shape have changed a little...and may change even more as you get back into it. Hence, one option to consider is not to try and make this THE bike purchase, just A bike purchase that will do for now. Hence, go for something a little more bog standard that you can ride through the winter and resell if you want to at some point without taking a bit hit. Bikes like Spesh Allez are good for that: they hold their value well, they are not too racy but allow a decent range and can even be raced on to a very high standard. Mudguards can be fitted if using Raceblade Longs, etc., so match them with some ok wheels that can be ridden in the winter, like Fulcrum 5LG, Quattro, etc.

    In the UK I would be looking at something off fleahbay or, even better, off the classifieds on here. If you buy right only to find the size is wrong then you could always resell without loss and buy again with the lesson learned. Safe riding.

    Edit: oh, try not to get too distracted by the groupo, modern Tiagra is more than good enough for most riders so anything at or above that level will suffice until you buy the SUMMER bike :-)
  • kj00
    kj00 Posts: 15
    The situation is even worse despite the sizing (and fit) of both are more or less known. I better would do at least 50 kms test ride on each if I had the possibility. I have no old time experience with carbon at all I do not know if I found difference in my usage. I am not sure that Aksium wheels are durable enough on bad quality roads. Gearing 50-34/11-25 on one 52-36/11-28 on other, I have preference, but I should test both for my current condition. Etc.
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    Aksiums are ok but their freehub is shockingly bad and they do feel very sluggish. I would go for some Fulcrum 5LG or Zonda C17, QuattroLG, etc. All have a nice wide rim and reasonable weight. Run them with 25s and the roads will float by.

    I would go Compact if you ride in a hilly area but there are loads of threads on that and you can always swap out if needed...but I would rather have gears that were slightly too easy than too hard...lots of threads on that too!
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    Oh, hate to ask but how fat is "fat". If you are over 100kg then you may want to get some decent 28/36 handbuilts, etc.
  • Not much in it. I'd be making the decision on some of the smaller details mentioned above.

    If you're planning on keeping the bike for a long time, I'd say choose the better frame over better components. Not because the frame is more important to the performance, but because it's a longer term investment, where as components are likely to be swapped out.

    Conversely, if you've half a mind on upgrading the bike in a year, or are the type of person who likes to chop and change bikes regularly, then I'd go for the better components.
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    The standard chainset does give the lowest gear. So I'd probably go for that - the carbon frame and the 105 kit.

    What width tyres ? You may be tempted for narrow - but all the cool kids are on 25mms now - so you might be able to swap out for no extra cost now.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Fenix wrote:
    The standard chainset does give the lowest gear

    How'd you work that out? The compact has a 34t chainring vs the standard 36t. Or do you know what bikes he's referring to and the cassettes are different??

    I have decent alu and carbon framed bikes, and once you're on 25mm tyres or fatter they are hard to tell apart. The carbon bike's a bit lighter, but the % difference in total weight of bike plus rider plus water bottles etc must be miniscule.

    Can you not find a bike that offers alu + 105 and spend the saving on upgrading the wheels to something more robust bearing in mind your references to fat guy and rough roads?
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    He did give us the cassettes - 50-34 has 11-25.. 52-36 has 11-28.
  • kj00
    kj00 Posts: 15
    Thank you all the opinions, you helped a lot to have a better impression. Unfortunately I have no experience from the last - decades nor knowledge of technologies. Indeed, I am cycling by memories, if turn to the hilly side and my knee starts paining then I continue by the routine - and anger.

    Bobbinogs, fat is fat, near 100kg on good days on the better side, hopefully decreasing. However gained 4kgs when/since I restarted cycling in this August, perhaps it makes good apetite :D I have no options to order those bikes with alternative wheelsets, just the specified ones, take them or not.

    Probable today Tiagra is far enough for my performance, but I targeted the lowest level which fits my old desires and prejudices yet. Those two bikes are finalists of my research, but I can continue. I do not want to upgrade a bike but buy and keep the original setup.
  • kj00
    kj00 Posts: 15
    keef66 wrote:
    How'd you work that out? The compact has a 34t chainring vs the standard 36t. Or do you know what bikes he's referring to and the cassettes are different??

    The compact 34/25=1.36
    The semi compact 36/28=1.29

    The semi compact gives the lowest gear because of the larger sprocket.
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    kj00 wrote:
    keef66 wrote:
    How'd you work that out? The compact has a 34t chainring vs the standard 36t. Or do you know what bikes he's referring to and the cassettes are different??

    The compact 34/25=1.36
    The semi compact 36/28=1.29

    The semi compact gives the lowest gear because of the larger sprocket.

    If you are near 100kg and 27 years off a bike you will struggle to get up hills as your fitness/power will not be enough to overcome the laws of gravity. Personally, I would give up on semi-compact as it is simply not right for you (just look at the amount of threads that start "I have bought semi-compact but I need a lower gear"). You mention knee pain...no bloody wonder mate! Try to put yesteryear behind you and buy a bike for what you are now. So, compact and even a 28 at the back may not be enough but that is easily changed with modern options from SRAM, etc., so consider that as an option afterwards because it won't cost much. Learn to spin your legs and protect your knees, think of the mechanics of putting power and 100kg of weight through those small joints/ligaments...once damaged they can take months to recovery.

    You seem focused on the two options but you may well find that your body isn't, which is why you might want to look at a cheaper local/online purchase just to see how you get on. A lot has changed on bikes over the last 30 years, I know bikes still have two wheels and the same triangles and work in the same way but position/geometries have changed in subtle but important ways, as has the options on gearing. Ultimately though, try not to overthink things, buy bike...ride it!
  • kj00
    kj00 Posts: 15
    Theoretically Fenix was right, the calculation is factual I gave the figures only.
    However lots have changed not only on bikes, but also my performance from what I remember :D
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    Wish I could cruise at 22 mph over 100 miles solo. Are you a super athlete?
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • timtak
    timtak Posts: 27
    I know I am several months too late but having been an old fat guy with the same decision I am sad I chose the aluminium at first. Especially if you are packing some kilograms then the suspension provided by Carbon (and perhaps steel and titanium) frames is much more comfortable than, imho harsh, aluminium frames can provide. Perhaps a carbon fork, suspension seat post, and larger, 25 to 28 mm tires can solve the issue, but Carbon not aluminium, did it for me.
  • ZMC888
    ZMC888 Posts: 292
    Screw alloy, go for steel or carbon.
    Personally in your situation I'd go for steel, something nice but with the view to relegate it to a winter/touring bike if you improve or get more serious. Get a full compact 50-34 crank with an 11-32 cassette and hydraluic disk brakes or rim brakes, don't bother with mechanical disk brakes.