Tire changing

madmaxwell

Am not a stranger to changing tires but am really struggling with some continental 4 seasons to the point where i cant use them because if i got a puncture on the road i am not sure i could get the tire back on.
Is it me being a numpty or what. They are not brand new but not been used too much either but i am really struggling.
Any suggestions.

imposter2.0

Some tyre / rim combos just don't work that well unfortunately. On a different wheelset there would probably be no issue.

svetty

madmaxwell wrote:

Is it me being a numpty or what.

Probably

Seriously though there are few tyres that won't go on if you get the technique correct. Essentially if you get the beads into the centre well of the rim it should be pretty straightforward. Conti 4S's aren't particularly difficult to fit

giropaul

They will almost certainly be easier to get off and on after they have been fitted and ridden. I find it helpful to fit a tight tyre without a tube and then remove it. This slightly stretches it, and saves pinching a tube.

Thick Mike

giropaul wrote:

They will almost certainly be easier to get off and on after they have been fitted and ridden. I find it helpful to fit a tight tyre without a tube and then remove it. This slightly stretches it, and saves pinching a tube.

Now that's a good idea!

I just spent an hour wrestling Continental GP4s onto some ultegra 6800 wheels, swearing, sweating and walking off in a huff were my main techniques! When I finally got the second one on, of course, I'd pinched the inner tube and had to start again. :evil:

Got some of those Var tyre levers on order...we shall see.

keef66

I've never had any problems with GP4S on the very rare occasions I've suffered a puncture. That's on Shimano clinchers; other rims may be harder. I hear hanging folding tyres on a radiator prior to first fitting can make things easier, as can a dusting of talc.

Good suggestion re fitting the tyre first without a tube...

Rightarmbad

When fitting the tyre, roll the last bit of tyre on at the valve.
This allows a maximum of tyre bead to sit deep into the rim well and gives an effective smaller diameter rim.

step83

Was always taught the other way, work away from the valve, main thing is to make sure the tyre goes into the channel, usually add a squeak of air so the tube isn't flat less chance of pinching it I find.

Some rim tyres combos though are a Pain, I've two sets of rims, moved the tyres from one to another. One set, absolute nightmare. Other fitted without a lever. Same tyre, different rim though the diameters are the same. All to do with internal shaping etc. Or one rims not actually 700c is 702c because its annoying, or least that's my theory.

svetty

It's easier to finish at the valve - that way the beads sit in the centre well all the way around the rim as you fit the tyre.