Using a Hollowtech 2 BB on a track bike?

dru
dru Posts: 1,341
edited October 2016 in Track
Hi guys,

I've got some issues with the chainset I got with my secondand Giant track bike.
So I'm loking at replacing it,

Is there any chance I can run a hollowtech 2 bottombracket and a shimano chainset with either 110BCD or 130BCD and then get a suitable chainring and chainline setup?

Thanks.

Comments

  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Track chainsets are pretty simple - what are the issues you are having and why can't they be resolved?

    SRAM's Omnium chainset uses a GXP BB, which is the same concept as HT2. Not sure if an HT2 road chainset would work out..
  • dru
    dru Posts: 1,341
    Its an old truro chainset, with square tapers and they are losening every 20 minutes whilst on the boards (both drive and non-drive side)
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Why not just replace it with any other track chainset w/BB..?? Not sure why you want to go the HT2 route.
  • top_bhoy
    top_bhoy Posts: 1,424
    Dru wrote:
    Its an old truro chainset, with square tapers and they are losening every 20 minutes whilst on the boards (both drive and non-drive side)
    I've had square taper previously and never encountered this issue but from my earlier research, square taper may look the same but there are different standards http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html. Can I suggest the slackness you are seeing is either an incompatibility issue between sizing, considerable wear and tear has ocurred - or both?

    For speed and expediency, I'd buy a track specific chainset and compatible BB.
    Click here to view Top_Bhoys Pedal Force:
    Click here to view Top_Bhoys RC2:
  • dru
    dru Posts: 1,341
    Top_Bhoy wrote:

    Can I suggest the slackness you are seeing is either an incompatibility issue between sizing, considerable wear and tear has ocurred - or both?

    Based on the age of the bike (Giant Team issue (T-Mobile) I'm guessing it could be a combination of things!

    In terms of why I'm considering the HT2 route, I've got multiple chainsets of that HT2 compatability that I've got 'hanging around as well a a new unused HT2 BB.

    Is it possible (just with me purchasing a suitable 110bcd or 130bcd chainring?
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    If you have HT2 cranks of the right length and you can achieve the correct chainline, then it's do-able. Might look a bit sh1t though...
  • dru
    dru Posts: 1,341
    Imposter wrote:
    If you have HT2 cranks of the right length and you can achieve the correct chainline, then it's do-able. Might look a bit sh1t though...

    Yes I have suitable crank arm lengths - so if it is doable, then I will convert (don't really care what it looks like at present) if it works and I stick at track riding then I will go and get a specific chainset etc.

    Does anybody know what spacers would be needed to get the correct chain line?
  • mamba80
    mamba80 Posts: 5,032
    Dru wrote:
    Imposter wrote:
    If you have HT2 cranks of the right length and you can achieve the correct chainline, then it's do-able. Might look a bit sh1t though...

    Yes I have suitable crank arm lengths - so if it is doable, then I will convert (don't really care what it looks like at present) if it works and I stick at track riding then I will go and get a specific chainset etc.

    Does anybody know what spacers would be needed to get the correct chain line?

    Your biggest problem will be getting long enough chain ring bolts to enable you to fit the depth of the spacers you will need.

    if it were me, i d double check i ve got the right BB taper for the crank set and then i d use some loctite bearing retaining fluid (the non locking version) on the crank/bb axle interface, making sure the crank bolts are torqued up and with thread lock on the bolts..
    Use a small file to clean up inside the crank arms too.
    They should nt be coming lose, so check that the axle is nt sitting proud of the crank arm as well, even if the crank taper is worn slightly, the bolt should still pull the crank arm up onto the axle if you ve the right BB.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Agree with Mamba - it just sounds like the taper on the crank is not compatible with the taper on the BB.

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