Which Wheels?

nwallace
nwallace Posts: 1,465
edited October 2016 in Road buying advice
Looking to get some better wheels for my Synapse some point next year.

Currently got the standard R500s on it, and they're a bit, erm, meh?
I'm happily running with 25c GP 4000s tyres on the wheels just now so would probably stick with them or go Tubeless.
Looking for a nice zippy pair that can take a 10 or 11spd Shimano cassette (as I like the frame enough that I'll probably keep improving various bits on it)
I've been reading that 25c tyres could maybe do with rims wider than the standard 17mm inner width, thoughts?

Although I like "hilly" routes I'm not exactly built to climb, sensible weight is around 75kg although when I'm on the pies I just about keep it below 90Kg so strength is probably necessary over lightweight, and roads round here vary from new tarmac to "what road?" with more of the later.


I had thought about the Duraace C28s when they were half-price on wiggle, but decided against it.
Off the shelf Mavic and lob the enclosed tyre?
Hope Mono RS with Stans Alpha, but I'd really want a Green (to go with the frame) hub, and no one does green hubs

Any suggestions?
Do Nellyphants count?

Commuter: FCN 9
Cheapo Roadie: FCN 5
Off Road: FCN 11

+1 when I don't get round to shaving for x days

Comments

  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    you mean standard 15mm inner width. 17mm inner width is a bit narrow these days but still wider than many rims out there.

    DA c28's what are those.

    Stans alpha's seriously? if you get up to 90kg (15kg weight flucuation is huge and not healthy) then the stans alpha rim is not a good choice.

    Light wheels by the way dont get you to climb quicker, thats a myth. The weight savings have to be big to make a difference on a climb. Light wheels can be flexible or have rims that wear out quickly like the dura ace C24 (flexible and they wear out quickly).

    Posting here you will get a mixed bag of answers. Some will say the C24 wheels are stiff and if they do I invite them to place there rear wheel cassette facing up and push down on the rim while the hub is on a block of wood and watch happens and then try the same with any of the wheels I ride on myself and compare.

    So go for a wider rims and a stiff one ideally with offset drilling. DT swiss have an offering now RR411, there are kinlin rims too (XR22T and RT). All are not heavy and can build into stiff wheels that are reliable. the stans rim though is not in that catagory. Then there is venerable velocity A23 althought his is not the best finished rim about but it works as a rim.

    Campagnolo and Mavic are doing wider rimmed wheels now too. The zonda C17 is possibly the better of the two. fulcrum (campagnolo in disguise) have ab=n affering too but dont be fooled any of these will make you into a better climber.

    A good wheelset will be reliable and will never break a spoke and not go out of true. a good wheel therefore needs to be stiff and this also give the illusion of power transfer. A good wheel will give stable and predicable cornering through the bends. This means a stiff wheel. a wide rim helps too as the tyre profile is better suited to leaning over more in a turn.

    Many things make a good wheelset. It's weight is not at the top of my list. I have 1020g and 1650g race wheels. I prefer the heavier ones for racing as they just work (the light ones are nice too but they are not any better at being wheels).

    Being able to run tubeless tyres is another bonus of buying a new wheelset and you might as well at least you have the option then.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • MikeBrew
    MikeBrew Posts: 814
    Superstar components Pave28 - 1533 grams, super-stiff kinlin xc279 rim, Sapim spokes, 199 quid.. £150 in the sales... I have 2 sets .Flawless ! why spend more ?
    I'm 85 Kg and have hit some serious pot holes on these without any issues - bar the odd pinch flat (1 in 2000 miles.) Apparently they will run tubeless, but I find the TL tyres way too expensive to bother with.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    ah but they are way better. When you a try a proper tubeless tyre not the schwable pro one you wont go back. More comfortable, no flats and the ones I am riding last, grip like nothing else and dont puncture. Every clincher bar the challange strada bianca has let me down. Either they wear out to quickly, or puncture and wear out to quickly. All have been destroyed by big holes or sidewall cuts except the challange tyre withing 1500 miles.

    the Kinlin XC279 is not a proper tubeless rim kinlin make the XR31T for that.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • nwallace
    nwallace Posts: 1,465
    THanks,

    Having a look around your website.

    And yes 15Kg weight gain is a problem, so is stuffing my face when I get stressed and very much related.

    It was DA C24 I was thinking of, that definitely rules them out, likewise the Stans
    Do Nellyphants count?

    Commuter: FCN 9
    Cheapo Roadie: FCN 5
    Off Road: FCN 11

    +1 when I don't get round to shaving for x days
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    stress is never good. I find riding helps with stress. It is how I deal with stress.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.