Pulling Hydraulics & bleeding.
wolfsbane2k
Posts: 3,056
Hi.
Following a complete brake failure on 8 year old Hayes so1es ive got a set of new SLX m675s coming that will need to be cut to size.
I was hoping to do a bleedless fit, using a dremel to cut square, but I've noticed that the frame (kona hoss ) has 2 fixed grips near the rear seat stay the hose has to go through, so I need to bend it around to complete the hose feed.
Is it there a clever way to do this without having to fiddle around with bike at odd angles to keep the hose end square to the ground, or is it just best to assume it will need rebleeding afterwards?
(I forgot to order a rebleed kit)
Ta
Following a complete brake failure on 8 year old Hayes so1es ive got a set of new SLX m675s coming that will need to be cut to size.
I was hoping to do a bleedless fit, using a dremel to cut square, but I've noticed that the frame (kona hoss ) has 2 fixed grips near the rear seat stay the hose has to go through, so I need to bend it around to complete the hose feed.
Is it there a clever way to do this without having to fiddle around with bike at odd angles to keep the hose end square to the ground, or is it just best to assume it will need rebleeding afterwards?
(I forgot to order a rebleed kit)
Ta
Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
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Comments
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Use a hose cutter, or pliers/side cutter, don't use an abrasive cutter that will contaminate the fluid.
If you push the Pistons out before cutting you can push them back carefully to make sure the hose is 'full' before joining as per the bleed less shortening procedure.
Shimano can be bled very easily by the old fashioned method of a simple syringe and short hose to top it up via the calliper bleed port if necessary.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
The Rookie wrote:Use a hose cutter, or pliers/side cutter, don't use an abrasive cutter that will contaminate the fluid.
If you push the Pistons out before cutting you can push them back carefully to make sure the hose is 'full' before joining as per the bleed less shortening procedure.
Shimano can be bled very easily by the old fashioned method of a simple syringe and short hose to top it up via the calliper bleed port if necessary.
Cheers - I've now got these in hand to try over the weekend.
Have also grabbed a hose cutter for £2 from the local motor factors alongside 1 m of 6mm tubing.
I've got a DOT4 bleed kit from the old brakes, but have now picked up the shimano funnel - what can go wrong!Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...0 -
That Shimano MUST use mineral oil and not DOT which will destroy all the rubber parts?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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:The Rookie wrote:That Shimano MUST use mineral oil and not DOT which will destroy all the rubber parts?
Indeed. I considered trying to clean out the old kit, but decided the risk wasn't worth it, hence the new purchase.Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...0
