Shimano DI2 electronic cable length

hsiaolc

I am recently building up my new bike.

Frame Kinesis GF Ti Disc with Ultegra DI2 with seatpost battery and I have ordered everything except the Frame (waiting for C2work certificate) and also the Di2 electronic cables.

Reason is because I don't know what length to acquire. Anyone can help me what length cable I need for the front and rear?

So I persume I need cable from Shifter to the junction box and then to the downtube to the battery and to the FD and from the Batter to the RD?

trailflow

It might be cheaper if you bought the Di2 groupset (or Di2 upgrade kit) as a whole,as it will come with all cables,junction boxes,battery and charger.

The cable lengths below are included and will fit a small to large frame. If you have a bigger frame you should buy a longer downtube wire.

2 x Shifter e-tube wires (350mm each) EW-SD50 - for 42,44cm bars. If you have 46cm bars get longer.
1 Downtube e-tube wire (1000mm) EW-SD50
1 Battery e-tube wire (450mm) EW-SD50
1 Front derailleur e-tube wire (300mm) EW-SD50
1 Rear derailleur e-tube wire (600mm) EW-SD50

Di2 plug tool - To insert and remove the wires

Ultegra 6870 or DA9070 Di2 Shifters
Ultegra 6870 or DA9070 Di2 Front derailleur
Ultegra 6870 or DA9070 Di2 Rear derailleur
3 or 5 port junction Box A - SM-EW90-A or SM-EW90-B (fits on the stem)
Junction box B - SM-JC41 (fits inside the bottom bracket/frame)
Internal Battery - SM-BTR2
Battery charger - SM-BCR2 - This doubles as a pc interface to customize settings,and update the firmware. And can only be used with an internal battery.

pilot_pete

Either use the geometry guide for the frame to see what length the various tubes are or use a tape measure when the frame arrives. As long as your di2 wires are 'long enough' it doesn't really matter as you can hide any excess in the frame. I just used a tape measure, added the various 'loops' outside the frame to the tube length measured roughly that the wire was going into and added a bit extra on, this seemed to work fine. The only exception was the shifters to A Junction which need to be fairly accurate as you don't want excess there. The required length depends on bar width, shifter position on the bar (to a much lesser extent) and position of your junction box on the stem. I did get this one wrong first go and changed the two wires for shorter ones by return.

PP

hsiaolc

trailflow wrote:

It might be cheaper if you bought the Di2 groupset (or Di2 upgrade kit) as a whole,as it will come with all cables,junction boxes,battery and charger.

The cable lengths below are included and will fit a small to large frame. If you have a bigger frame you should buy a longer downtube wire.

2 x Shifter e-tube wires (350mm each) EW-SD50 - for 42,44cm bars. If you have 46cm bars get longer.
1 Downtube e-tube wire (1000mm) EW-SD50
1 Battery e-tube wire (450mm) EW-SD50
1 Front derailleur e-tube wire (300mm) EW-SD50
1 Rear derailleur e-tube wire (600mm) EW-SD50

Di2 plug tool - To insert and remove the wires

Ultegra 6870 or DA9070 Di2 Shifters
Ultegra 6870 or DA9070 Di2 Front derailleur
Ultegra 6870 or DA9070 Di2 Rear derailleur
3 or 5 port junction Box A - SM-EW90-A or SM-EW90-B (fits on the stem)
Junction box B - SM-JC41 (fits inside the bottom bracket/frame)
Internal Battery - SM-BTR2
Battery charger - SM-BCR2 - This doubles as a pc interface to customize settings,and update the firmware. And can only be used with an internal battery.

Thank you. I think I will just do the string method. I will do that when I get the frame.

I bought Di2 pieces here and there because I didn't find the groupset that I wanted.

hsiaolc

Pilot Pete wrote:

Either use the geometry guide for the frame to see what length the various tubes are or use a tape measure when the frame arrives. As long as your di2 wires are 'long enough' it doesn't really matter as you can hide any excess in the frame. I just used a tape measure, added the various 'loops' outside the frame to the tube length measured roughly that the wire was going into and added a bit extra on, this seemed to work fine. The only exception was the shifters to A Junction which need to be fairly accurate as you don't want excess there. The required length depends on bar width, shifter position on the bar (to a much lesser extent) and position of your junction box on the stem. I did get this one wrong first go and changed the two wires for shorter ones by return.

PP

Thank you very much.