Hiplock original, any good?

tangled_metal
tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
edited October 2016 in Commuting general
Anyone use a Hiplock original? Worth getting?

Not interested in d locks before you post about how much better they are. They're useless if you can't get them around your anchor point and anything solid on your bike.

900mm diameter chain will fit my bike frame, rear wheel and anchor point. No d lock will do that, I've tried a 270 or 300 sized d lock and it doesn't work.

Working on the basis that only something that can go around the bike and anchor is worth having, is this Hiplock good or is there anything else better for a reasonable price?

PS I'm carrying it everywhere I might need it. Can't leave it in one place. I know forums bang on about d locks and also leave a heavier chain there to use. Doesn't work, several locations and not enough money to leave locks everywhere. Plus one location will cut it off if left there.

Comments

  • Bike isn't expensive at £650. Medium security risk at the main locking location. Getting lower risk since there's now some colleagues with new bikes worth nicking who don't lock them up. On the same principle that you don't need to be the fastest to get away from a bull just faster than your mate, you just need to be more secure than any other bike worth nicking! Silver rated probably good enough.
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    If you can get your lock around your rear wheel inside the rear triangle and the anchor point, then there's no need for it to be through the frame as well. You can't take a rear wheel off a bike frame while it's got a d-lock through it - the lock won't fit through the frame.

    No idea on the hiplock, sorry.
  • Sheldon technique I believe. Doesn't work with my anchor point though. I've tried. Even the rear triangle at the nearest point to the anchor won't fit.

    The anchor is a wheelbender rack but I can't get on it because it's full. I have to lock up round the back or side which means a stretch for a chain even. I'm currently using a cable lock. It's better than nothing but I'm not happy with it for obvious reasons.

    It does seem to me that everyone uses a d lock. I've asked for portable chain lock recommendations on other forums and always get told to get a d lock. Despite explaining it won't work and why I still got told I needed a d lock or to just leave a good chain lock anywhere I might need to secure my bike. Like I'm made of money. Sorry if that sounds like a frustrated dig. It's just that I need a chain, silver rated or better and reasonable weight for portability. I can't afford about 20 locks left all over waiting for me to need them.
  • Graeme_S wrote:
    No idea on the hiplock, sorry.
    That's ok, appreciate your advice about the locking method I reckon that could work with my old d lock for two bikes on a Sheffield stand in town.
  • prowlbass
    prowlbass Posts: 159
    I have one for my 'errands' bike and the bike hasn't been nicked in the 4 or so years I've been using it... Generally locked in relatively low risk areas of London for short periods of time (though occasionally near pubs for extended periods)... I'm not convinced it'd take a thief too much effort to get through if they had any inkling that the frame alone was worth the effort.

    My basic thought process was if my bike's easier to steal than the D locked ones (most D locks are VERY easy to break), it should at least look much less valuable/harder to shift than the better locked bikes. The real paint job is obscured by an easy to remove paint layer and I purposefully keep it looking dirty and uncared for - walking past it, most people think the bike's a PoS and ignore it (though someone at work did see through it and offer to buy it off me once!). If your bike looks even slightly more valuable than a BSO, I'd worry about relying on a Hiplock.

    That said, for what it is, doubt you'll find better than the Hiplock - just be aware of the limitations. I also lock it so the chain and padlock are as hard to reach as possible and the chain is wrapped tight so you can't slip a tool in anywhere for leverage (also keep the bike locked in well lit, busy places etc.).
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    Sorry Tangled - I did consider as I was writing that I was giving you the advice you had already specified wouldn't solve your problem (and yet some how couldn't help myself).

    I've only ever used a d-lock, so can't recommend anything else unfortunately.
  • Graeme - and my first reply sounded like I was.having a go, sorry!

    It seems I'm an idiot for using anything other than a hefty d lock even though for my work lock point that I use most a d lock won't fit. Well that was the consensus when I asked this or another forum about what lock to.get. People sometimes only answer the questions they think we should have asked on forums IME. With locks my question should read, "which d lock should I get with unlimited money to spend in order to leave around town ready for when I need it to secure my bike?"

    The main lock use will be in.a security gated yard at work with a selection of other bikes. The yard has eyes on a lot with employees walking around the place from building to building with office windows looking out too. Breaks result in people sitting near the bike shed too. All other bikes are either not locked.up at all or locked with a very cheap cable lock costing a couple of quid at most possibly from Wilkos or pound shop. My bike cost £650 and the other bikes are £30 BSOs up to £450 bikes and a few cube mountain bikes that cost the £450 new or the second one £700-900 new but cost the owner £300 one years ago secondhand. So some rubbish but at least 4 reasonable bikes worth nicking. My bike is already locked with the best bike lock being used. A thick kryptonite cable lock, Kryptoflex with a 15mm cable. Most of the other locks being used look like 5mm cables, some in dayglow green too. Makes them more secure right?!
  • I have used one for the last 2 years because a D-lock won't wrap around the posts and frame on my mountain bike. Had no problems. (touch wood)
    Very useful when you don't want to weigh yourself down with a hefty D-lock - you don't notice it when it's wrapped around your waist. It is pretty hefty looking.
    I'm lucky that I haven't had to leave it any place where the general public will wander past. I've always put it in a dedicated bike shed, with other bikes, on business parks.
    They also happen to be next to smoking shelters, so colleagues can check it once in a while.
    2007 Felt Q720 (the ratbike)
    2012 Cube Ltd SL (the hardtail XC 26er)
    2014 Lapierre Zesty TR 329 (the full-sus 29er)
  • Sounds like where my main lock point is except the proper bike shed. Ours is a wheel bender rack that doesn't even hold the wheels that well so bikes lean against each other. So we can only use every other slot. Then it's galvanized steel that you could probably cut through with kids plastic scissors. All in a shed that's as weather proof as a colander.

    TBH I'm only planning on using a good chain for insurance reasons and a deterrent. Any bike thief that's serious would bolt crop the stand and shove the bikes into a van. The only real security is the security fencing and barrier to vehicles (can't get the van up close to load stolen items) but mostly the eyes on. The shed is reached by only 2 directions and both those have plenty of people in a position to see them.

    So you got the original Hiplock in sold secure silver rating or the gold one? I can't see bronze rating as good for anything really.

    Seen the v1.5 one at £43 something from Tredz. I think that's a good deal.
  • I've got the v1.5 (silver rating). The gold rated one hadn't been released at the time.
    2007 Felt Q720 (the ratbike)
    2012 Cube Ltd SL (the hardtail XC 26er)
    2014 Lapierre Zesty TR 329 (the full-sus 29er)