Headset queries

larkim

Whilst the fork is being repaired, thought I'd clean out and re-grease the headset etc.

Top was nice and straightforward - as far as I can tell from Canyon its a Cane Creek Forty headset with ZS 44 / 28.6 at the top and IS 52 / 40 at the bottom.

When I removed the fork, the lower parts of the headset remained in situ, and didn't want to fall out. I de-greased a little and the outer blue ring came off (odd, I thought) exposing the cage of bearings. A single squirt of degreaser and the balls started falling out (unexpectedly!) and after recovering those the bearing cage came out, and the blue cap from the top of the cartridge came out later.





Remaining inside the headset is a race, but I presume this is the remains of the cartridge. Whilst I've only prodded with my fingers rather than do any damage, it doesn't feel like it will just pop out.



I presume what I need to buy is this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cane-creek-40-series-is52-40-bottom-assembly/rp-prod115643 but will it be a LBS job to have inserted (I don't have headset tools, though I am happy seating a crown race with a poly tube having done this a couple of times before. Crown race was removed from the forks so I will need to do this anyway, and was planning on buying a new race on its own, but if I need the bearings too I expect it will be cheaper to buy all together).

I'd rather DIY if I can, but this style of headset is new to me. Help requested on removing the remains of the bearing and doing the same in reverse.

Thanks!

ade555

Not sure if diy tool will help with removing this, have a look

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkY879pMafE

The Rookie

Cartridge bearing has come apart, not uncommon.

It shouldn't fall out, it's press fit.

Use a long screwdriver on the back of it and knock it out with a hammer.

larkim

What risk of damage to the frame, assuming I'm not being completely hamfisted? So it's a bearing cartridge in an interference fit then? Ok, starting to understand it a little more.

rockmonkeysc

Shouldn't be an interference fit, you can push the bearings in to the bottom cup with just finger pressure.
A gentle tap from the inside should get it out. Make sure you're hitting the race out and not the cup and make sure it comes out square or it'll jam solid.

cycleclinic

It is rust fit not an interference fit. Pry it out slot the new one in with lashing of a peristant grease.

rockmonkeysc

Or a fine film of copper grease if you want to do it properly.

The Rookie

All of mine are an interference fit, barely any, but there is some.

larkim

Tried some very gentle persuasion this morning, but the rim of the bearing is only very slightly (1/10 x 1mm ish) proud of the cup when viewed from above, so no real purchase. Tried a gentle levering from the bottom (protecting the frame with a rubber stop) but no joy. Left it upside down soaking in TF2 spray (the best I've got, probably not really likely to be effective) but at the moment this is looking like a LBS job to get out as I don't have the tools or experience to do this without risking being clumsy. Perhaps the lubrication will penetrate, I'll see tomorrow.

larkim

So the old bearing is now out and replacements on the way. I'll invest in some coppaslip.

Sheldon brown says IS52 is a "slip fit". On that basis, with some coppaslip to help things out, should u be expecting a gentle press into place, probably using the old bearing and little force, or is this likely to be more like pressing a traditional headset cup into place?

larkim

Just to close the loop for posterity...

Fork is back, and Cane Creek IS52 bottom headset parts arrived. Crown race installed easily with a smear of copper slip around the base of the steerer and a plastic 1.5inch tube. Internal cup for the lower cleaned out and smeared with copperslip and the new bearing popped in smoothly with very little (finger pressure) force - I presume this is the "slip fit" as described.

Did the same at the top using the old parts (the bearing there was fine), re-assembled etc. All back in working order.

So the upshot is that this thread now contains enough info for someone with a 2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (or possibly higher) to remove, replace and install a fresh element in the headset. Useful as Canyon's documentation on this is a little sparse!