Shimano M675 throw adjustment

grantx

I have just ditched my Elixir brake set and fitted new Shimano M675 disc brakes.
Im having a few issues that Im hoping someone can help me with.

1. When I pull the lever there is a lot of distance before the brakes touch the rotor. I prefer there to be an almost immediate response, or very tight brakes. Is there any way to improve the throw and get them responding sooner?

2. When I pulled the Elixir brakes I could lock the back wheel but with the new Shimano ones I cant. The wheel doesnt lock out it just slows the bike down to a stop. It might be that I have to wear the new pads in but I dont know.

Many thanks.

Liam8

There should be a reach adjust and a contact adjust the same as on the elixirs. Try adjusting the contact adjust to allow the caliper to activate on a shorter lever pull
Have you bled the new brakes?

The second point will be better once the pads have worn in, the outer edge of the new pads will wear leaving a better braking surface

Dirtydog11

There is no adjustment for lever throw on 675s, only lever reach and servo wave, servo wave doesn't advance the pads.

Firstly make sure your calipers are centrally mounted over the rotor, don't rely upon pulling the lever to centralise it, do it by eye (best with pads removed), then balance the pistons so they both contact the rotor at the same time.

Failure to correctly align caliper/pistons will cause excessive lever travel.

Assuming all the above is correct and you still have excessive travel you can pump the pistons out by removing the wheel and giving the lever a slight squeeze (dont go mad or you'll pop the pistons out). Replace the wheel and you should have less lever travel.

avalanche_expert

Dirtydog11 wrote:

There is no adjustment for lever throw on 675s, only lever reach and servo wave, servo wave doesn't advance the pads.

Firstly make sure your calipers are centrally mounted over the rotor, don't rely upon pulling the lever to centralise it, do it by eye (best with pads removed), then balance the pistons so they both contact the rotor at the same time.

Failure to correctly align caliper/pistons will cause excessive lever travel.

Assuming all the above is correct and you still have excessive travel you can pump the pistons out by removing the wheel and giving the lever a slight squeeze (dont go mad or you'll pop the pistons out). Replace the wheel and you should have less lever travel.

This above procedure of removing the wheel and giving one squeeze of the lever works very well for taking up the slack at the lever.

I've recently done this with my Shimao M396 brakes and I've now got a much earlier biting point with minimal lever travel. The wheel out method is excellent as long as you only try it one squeeze at a time.