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PF30 cups installation - loctite 609 or grease

Sta81Sta81 Posts: 56
edited October 2016 in Workshop
Hello everyone! After a lot of research on the net emails to companies and so on there's still confusion. Im about to change the pf30 cups on my SS evo and im wondering what i should use to press them in.
Wheels mfg suggested to use finish line extreme fluoro grease for installation, however, cannondale suggested loctite 609 with 7649 primer.

All answers will be appreciated

Posts

  • Try the grease first and resort to the Locktite if problems arise later.
  • svettysvetty Posts: 1,904
    Try the grease first and resort to the Locktite if problems arise later.

    Am in the process of doing this exact replacement (WM pressfit BB to SS Evo) and was intending to follow this plan. My reservations arise as I'm unsure at this point if the cups would survive a removal and re-fitting with Loctite so considering going for the Loctite from day 1. However, given the extra expense and faff (as well as not being what WH recommend) am leaning towards the grease as the first line method.......
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • SecteurSecteur Posts: 1,971
    I put mine in "dry" but exquisitely clean (to the point of using alcohol to clean the BB housing).

    Not had any probs (Hi-Mod cannondale frame)
  • AnonymousAnonymous Posts: 79,678
    I'm surprised they recommend anything. Loctite will make it harder to remove the next time you need to replace and grease will attract dirt into the area. The BB is not a sealed area away from dirt and water. Grease will probably do more to make things creak and squeak as it loses its properties. 2 clean dry surfaces pressed in correctly should be fine with a layer of silicon grease over the bearings before reassembly.
  • I'm surprised they recommend anything. Loctite will make it harder to remove the next time you need to replace and grease will attract dirt into the area. The BB is not a sealed area away from dirt and water. Grease will probably do more to make things creak and squeak as it loses its properties. 2 clean dry surfaces pressed in correctly should be fine with a layer of silicon grease over the bearings before reassembly.

    The idea with the Loctite is just that its a filler to compensate for tolerances in the frame, not really meant to glue the BB in forever. That's why generally the milder forms are recommended.
  • pilot_petepilot_pete Posts: 2,100
    Everything should be scrupulously clean. Invest your time and effort in this area.

    I use Loctite Bearing Retainer http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.h ... 2627616769

    I think some people confuse the brand name with the only product in the range that they have heard of - thread locker. Retainer fluid is designed to fill the gap and prevent anything getting in there between the bearing and the housing, no matter how small that gap is. It cures and retaines the bearing and is resistant to oil based products (useful) and vibration (very useful) and heat (only useful if you have a cadence of 15000rpm I suspect!) thus is probably the best you can do with push fit bottom brackets.

    I have removed and refitted bearings with no extra force compared to having not used bearing retainer - it is not Araldite!!!

    PP
  • Pilot Pete wrote:
    Everything should be scrupulously clean. Invest your time and effort in this area.

    I use Loctite Bearing Retainer http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.h ... 2627616769

    I think some people confuse the brand name with the only product in the range that they have heard of - thread locker. Retainer fluid is designed to fill the gap and prevent anything getting in there between the bearing and the housing, no matter how small that gap is. It cures and retaines the bearing and is resistant to oil based products (useful) and vibration (very useful) and heat (only useful if you have a cadence of 15000rpm I suspect!) thus is probably the best you can do with push fit bottom brackets.

    I have removed and refitted bearings with no extra force compared to having not used bearing retainer - it is not Araldite!!!

    PP
    Did you need to use it in your C60? I thought bearing shouldnt be re fitted once bashed out?
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
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  • pilot_petepilot_pete Posts: 2,100
    Yes I installed the brand new bearings on the C60 with retaining fluid during the build, not been taken out yet! I replaced the worn out bearings on my Felt crosser using Loctite retainer, which is my winter bike. The Loctite works really well, never had any squeaks...

    Here are the bearings about to be pressed in. You can see the retaining fluid on them.

    8193eb554c.jpg

    Pressed in

    819d09e627.jpg

    Ready to take the crank

    81a325303b.jpg

    PP
  • pilot_petepilot_pete Posts: 2,100
    Having said all that, Chris King recommends using anti-seize grease for the cups on their PF30 BBs... I was thinking more the bearing installation into the cups like my C60. The cups on that come installed in the frame from the manufacturer...if I replace them in the future I will seek manufacturers guidance but would suspect a thread lock would be ideal.

    PP
  • SecteurSecteur Posts: 1,971
    It's preferable to press in the bearings one side at a time, rather than both together, as it reduced the risk of a bearing going in at a slight angle
  • svettysvetty Posts: 1,904
    I have always used a thin smear of grease on the crank spindle, however the Wheels Manufacturing install instructions make no reference to this, although they do - as has already been mentioned - advise PFTE grease to the cups and carbon frame mating surfaces.

    Any views on whether to omit the greasing of the spindle??
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • AnonymousAnonymous Posts: 79,678
    Pilot Pete wrote:
    Yes I installed the brand new bearings on the C60 with retaining fluid during the build, not been taken out yet! I replaced the worn out bearings on my Felt crosser using Loctite retainer, which is my winter bike. The Loctite works really well, never had any squeaks...

    Here are the bearings about to be pressed in. You can see the retaining fluid on them.

    8193eb554c.jpg

    Pressed in

    819d09e627.jpg

    Ready to take the crank

    81a325303b.jpg

    PP

    That looks similar to the 'tool' I used/ created/bodged to install an FSA conversion into a BB. Good drills
  • svettysvetty Posts: 1,904
    Pressed in WM PF30 BB and reinstalled Hollowgrams with new Spidering. Used just PFTE grease as per WM instructions and...............smooth silence :)

    Here's hoping it lasts....
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
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