Saddle dilemma for tall people
twiza
Posts: 38
Now that I'm doing rides up to 100 miles I've increasingly been suffering from saddle sores. I had my sit bones measured by specialized and tried a handful of their saddles, I've tried all 3 Fizik categories, as well as a number of different pairs of shorts and applied chamois cream, all to no benefit.
I'm wondering whether sit bone measurement is actually the right method for me as I'm particularly tall at 6'7", and whilst very slim, still weigh 100kg, more than the average cyclist. It feels like I'm getting bruised from the pressure of being sat on the saddle rather than chaffing, so thinking a wider saddle might spread my weight better.
Can anyone suggest a suitable saddle or have any thoughts?
I'm wondering whether sit bone measurement is actually the right method for me as I'm particularly tall at 6'7", and whilst very slim, still weigh 100kg, more than the average cyclist. It feels like I'm getting bruised from the pressure of being sat on the saddle rather than chaffing, so thinking a wider saddle might spread my weight better.
Can anyone suggest a suitable saddle or have any thoughts?
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I am the same height and weight and am fine for about 5 hours on the bike after which I lose interest. I have a specialized avatar saddle in the widest size and find Castelli bib shorts and tights the most comfortable on longer rides but Gore are fine as well.
You are doing the right things and it might be worth getting a bike fit. Very long rides shows up even the smallest issues on your bike set up. The other thing is to make sure everything is clean and shower as soon as you finish cycling. Also make sure you wash your cycling gear on a good wash cycle as a 15 minute quick wash is pretty much useless. Other century riders will have more advice.0 -
Where are the bruises?0
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Bruising is concentrated around the sit bones and if I do multi day then this develops into broken skin. I must be slightly off balance as the right side tends to get worse than the left.
Very conscious of keeping clean so only wear shorts once before a proper wash. Also looking at gettin a bike fit once I get a new bike0 -
What about tyres and pressure there - can you go wider tyres and a bit less pressure for a smoother ride ?0
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I've got 25mm tyres running at about 100psi. This bike probably wouldn't go any wider but new one will0
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Other than having frequent short spells out of the saddle to allow blood flow to the compressed areas I suspect that 100kgs through a fairly small area is going to have negative consequences whatever fit/saddle combos you try.FFS! Harden up and grow a pair0
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I try to stand regularly too.
I agree that is probably the problem, hence why I wondered if a much wider saddle would be of benefit just to spread the load a little bit more. I understand that the bulk of the weight will still go through the sit bones though, but would there be any negative consequences of going wider?0 -
I'm 6'6" and 100kg, ride a Fizik Arione, Bontrager Paradigm and Serano, both in 128mm, on wider saddles I get chaffing on inner thigh.0
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What shorts do you use Elfred? Are they firm saddles?0
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Given the amount of money you have obviously spent on wider saddles, I'd give a narrower saddle a try out and see if you get similar discomfort.
Out of interest, what bike have you as a bike with a more racy geometry may be putting more weight on your sit bones than one with a less aggressive set up...?0 -
twiza wrote:What shorts do you use Elfred? Are they firm saddles?
In my experience having a soft saddle just doesn't work as I'm heavy and just distributes the pressure everywhere , so firmer ones work best for myself as it keeps the pressure where it's supposed to be. Saying that, I think that's the rule whatever you weigh.
Those three saddles are fairly firm.
I set my saddles perfectly level, not with a spirit level though as there's too much variances. I use a phone app, it's very accurate and is very easy to get repeated results as you've a number to work to, not where the bubble roughly sits between two lines.
I use Endura pro sl shorts with the green pad, also a couple of Pearl Izumi shorts.
If my arse starts hurting it's generally because I'm tired and supporting less weight with my legs and, not my shorts, that's just my experience though.0 -
If the sitbones are the problem than the following is occurring:
- most of your pressure of your weight is on your sitbones because you have an upright position, poor positioning and/or poor flexibility, or
- the problem is friction
To differentiate these two problems I would suggest seeing how your sitbones feel on a ride not long enough to cause friction (i.e. 2 hours with lots of chamois cream)
If it is a problem of too much weight then you have some options:
option 1 - i have a flat saddle (i.e. fizik arione)
- place your saddle further back to redistribute body weight onto your bars - (if saddle too far forward is the problem). or,
- place your bar lower for the same effect - if your saddle is flat then this also will tilt your pelvis forward, redistributing weight
- if your have poor hip and neck flexibility these won't work particularly well as your perineum will press on the saddle or your neck will suffer
option 2 I have a curved saddle
(i.e.) fizik aliante
-Place your saddle back if you have poor flexibility or get a longer stem (whichever works best for geometry) - this will rotate your pelvis forward redistributing weight from your sitbones to the anterior pelvis, or
-lower the stem if you have good flexibility, this will rotate your pelvis forward - too far forward and your perineum will abut a curved saddle causing pain and numbness - not a good idea so there is a balance to achieve
Either way a curved saddle is likely to be more comfortable if you have poor flexibility
For your problem a curved saddle would be more suitable as this would distribute the pressure from your weight over a wider surface area but it seems that you have already tried a curved saddle which is why I have suggested subtly altering your positioning to redistribute weight. If you have good flexiobility getting more anterior (forward) pelvic tilt over a flat saddle and getting more weight on your hands is likeley to help.
Riding 'harder' (grinding not spinning) rather than cruising may help as well as pushing hard on the pedals 'lifts' weight off the sitbones.
FWIW I have had a similar problem which I have fixed with a curved saddle with extremely flexible shell and almost no padding. in my case I got a prologo scratch nack HWD. The prologo scratch range has a shallow curved profile that suits me as I have poor flexibility - I need to maintain an upright trunk but angle my pelvis enough to sit a shallow curve for weight distribution.
The fizik kurve bull is the same concept with a deeper curve. You could try that saddle but it is a very expensive experiment unless you can get a test saddle.
Some people use a brooks saddle wiht the same efect of using a flexible shell. the selle italia 'flow' saddle (with a cutout) achieve a similar effect as you effectively get a flexy shell because of the cutout, they are much flatter than the two saddle ranges that I have mentioned.
The other variable is that if you want a flatter saddle for weight distribution but find that your perineum is getting compressed than a cutout (fizik versus etc) may assist.
there's a million variables based on your position and flexibility. A pro bike fit might help.0 -
I had an issue whereby I was digging into the saddle. You could see the indentation made onto the saddle even on a 2 hour ride, and through well padded shorts ...ouch !! ....
This made me think maybe a brooks leather saddle would 'give' to the irregular shape of my ass or the way I was sitting. It worked I have brooks b17 imperial on both my bikes now - it might not look great - but I can ride in comfort. You can pick them up for around £60 on amazon.0 -
Many thanks for everybody's advice, I can see bits of most of the tips fitting in with me.
One of the main issues I think is that I put too much weight on the saddle through being too upright. Unfortunately I have some neck/shoulder issues from old rugby injuries so struggle to put weight through the bars for significant periods, so probably have a shorter stem than perhaps I should. I haven't tested out lowering the bars though.
I seem to be more comfortable on a curved type saddle, perhaps the flexibility suggestion is key. Agree on the bike fit, might help identify some issues with my technique too0 -
twiza wrote:Many thanks for everybody's advice, I can see bits of most of the tips fitting in with me.
One of the main issues I think is that I put too much weight on the saddle through being too upright. Unfortunately I have some neck/shoulder issues from old rugby injuries so struggle to put weight through the bars for significant periods, so probably have a shorter stem than perhaps I should. I haven't tested out lowering the bars though.
I seem to be more comfortable on a curved type saddle, perhaps the flexibility suggestion is key. Agree on the bike fit, might help identify some issues with my technique too
If you are not too bothered about looks/weight I suggest a Brooks leather saddle might be worth a try. I have a broken in Brooks which I use if I've had a particularly bruising ride and need something comfy to recover on. Looks odd on a road bike but is excellent at cosseting my bum.Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
Van Raam 'O' Pair
Land Rover (really nasty weather )0 -
What is it about brooks saddles that make them so comfy? So many people rave about them but they don't look particularly comfy and if so good why don't other manufacturers recreate in a modern look?0
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twiza wrote:What is it about brooks saddles that make them so comfy? So many people rave about them but they don't look particularly comfy and if so good why don't other manufacturers recreate in a modern look?
A Brooks saddle is essentially a leather hammock which over time moulds itself to the exact dimensions of your ass. The period of moulding is called the "break in" . Leather saddles also require looking after and do not particularly like getting soaking wet. A modern saddle (most anyway) has a carbon/glass/plastic shell covered with a bit of padding, The shell may spring a little but essentially remains the shape it was moulded. If it fits great, if it does not it never will.Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
Van Raam 'O' Pair
Land Rover (really nasty weather )0 -
Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I guess the new synthetic material Brooks don't mould in the same way though?0
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twiza wrote:What is it about brooks saddles that make them so comfy? So many people rave about them but they don't look particularly comfy and if so good why don't other manufacturers recreate in a modern look?
It moulds to the shape of your backside - so gets very comfy. Also when you hit a pothole the whole saddle flexes.
The maintenance probably takes 10 minutes .....per year ! - Basically need to rub proofride on - I do this twice a year - then you can adjust the tension by turning the the bolt at the front. Ive had mine over 2 years and its got a couple of soakings in the time with no last effect. - In anycase it only £60 - not big money for a saddle these days.
All that said they aren't for everyone. I heavily recommended one to someone on here - who just didn't get on with it. Same for any saddle I suppose.0