Shimano hydraulic disc 105

seanorawe

I have decided to take my chances and my new bike has the hydraulic 105 dic groupset.

I know there were teething problems before, which have apparently been fixed, and some aren't keen on the shape of the shifters, however I found them to be comfortable.

Im struggling to find any adjustment you tube videos or reviews for these specific brakes, or guides on setting them up etc. According to CRC they are RS505 brakes. Are all of the shimano disc calipers etc the same, in terms of set up?

Apologies if this all sounds dumb, but I have never had hydraulic brakes, and I like to nerd up on all things new.

imposter2.0

There is no adjustment as such, as it is a closed hydraulic system. The only real maintenance work will be changing the pads periodically, which is fundamentally the same as any other disc caliper..

ugo.santalucia

The "big job" in hydraulics is to cut the pipes to length, possibly avoiding having to bleed the system.. the rest is straightforward

seanorawe

Imposter wrote:

There is no adjustment as such, as it is a closed hydraulic system. The only real maintenance work will be changing the pads periodically, which is fundamentally the same as any other disc caliper..

Really? I must have been in a coma when everyone was talking about hydraulic brakes. Is there any centering required when mounting the calipers?

bbrap

seanorawe wrote:

Imposter wrote:

There is no adjustment as such, as it is a closed hydraulic system. The only real maintenance work will be changing the pads periodically, which is fundamentally the same as any other disc caliper..

Really? I must have been in a coma when everyone was talking about hydraulic brakes. Is there any centering required when mounting the calipers?

Centering can be done two ways. Loosen mounting bolts and pull on brake lever, hold lever whilst tightening bolts, job done. Alternatively the caliper can be centered by eye by sighting along the disc (I found this method slightly easier to get brakes that do not rub).

imposter2.0

seanorawe wrote:

Imposter wrote:

There is no adjustment as such, as it is a closed hydraulic system. The only real maintenance work will be changing the pads periodically, which is fundamentally the same as any other disc caliper..

Really? I must have been in a coma when everyone was talking about hydraulic brakes. Is there any centering required when mounting the calipers?

Possibly, although as mentioned above, anyone who can use a 5mm allen key should have no issues with that.

seanorawe

If you adjust the reach of the brake levers will the pads auto adjust to an even gap between pads and rotor? Or would you need to take the pads out, push back the pistons, then adjust reach before pouting it all back together and pulling on the brakes?

Also, can you adjust how close you want the pads to the rotor? Say, if you want the pads to contact the rotor with less pull on the lever?

bbrap

I assume (I don't know for certain as I have STR785 levers) that the adjustment is all done at the lever end. On mine there are adjusting screws for reach and contact point. Set these how you like it and pull the levers a couple of times, no need to do anything with pads or pistons. I don't think the pad/rotor gap is user adjustable but the contact point adjustment on the lever gives the same effect.

apreading

bbrap wrote:

I assume (I don't know for certain as I have STR785 levers) that the adjustment is all done at the lever end. On mine there are adjusting screws for reach and contact point. Set these how you like it and pull the levers a couple of times, no need to do anything with pads or pistons. I don't think the pad/rotor gap is user adjustable but the contact point adjustment on the lever gives the same effect.

+this

I have the 105 levers and adjusted the contact point on the levers. Its in the manual but from memory, you go up underneath the lever - push the lever forwards slightly (opposite way to braking) and the allen key hole is in the fulchrum underneath. I think that is supposed to be alot easier than the 785 levers.

Thats the only adjustment you have really. Other than centering the pads as described above. And its all you need - they 'just work'.

bbrap

apreading wrote:

I have the 105 levers and adjusted the contact point on the levers. Its in the manual but from memory, you go up underneath the lever - push the lever forwards slightly (opposite way to braking) and the allen key hole is in the fulchrum underneath. I think that is supposed to be a lot easier than the 785 levers.

Thats the only adjustment you have really. Other than centering the pads as described above. And its all you need - they 'just work'.

Sounds like less dismantling, on the 785's you need to remove the cover to get at the screws, then faff about with the rubbers when putting the cover back. That said, it only takes a minute or so once you've done it the 1st time.

seanorawe

I'm having a bit of bother trying to adjust the reach on these levers. As per the manual I'm going up underneath the levers with a 2mm Allen key. I've tried every 2mm Allen Key I have, but I cannot get it in square to the bolt. The shifter hoods are always in the way. Any ideas?

apreading

push the shifter forwards, away from the bars.

seanorawe

apreading wrote:

push the shifter forwards, away from the bars.

Yeah tried that but still cant get an angle in. Ill have to see if a can get another hex key with a shorter bend on it

apreading

Which end of the allen key are you using? Just looked at mine and when I push the lever forward, the socket is totally unobstructed, straight line. Use the long part of the allen key to insert in the socket and the short part to grip with your hand - unless they are small allen keys, the bend should clear any obstructions. Having said that, when I did mine it was with 'proper' allen keys that may be a little longer.

seanorawe

apreading wrote:

Which end of the allen key are you using? Just looked at mine and when I push the lever forward, the socket is totally unobstructed, straight line. Use the long part of the allen key to insert in the socket and the short part to grip with your hand - unless they are small allen keys, the bend should clear any obstructions. Having said that, when I did mine it was with 'proper' allen keys that may be a little longer.

Its with a standard allen key you get all the different sizes in a pack. I had the bike on the ground and I was crouched under the bars trying to access it. the position of the nut, even when I push the lever forward is at an awkward angle, so when I put the allen key in there is a little plastic part that wont let my allen key go in straight. You dont happen to have your bike with you to take a picture of your bolt?

apreading

Actually, just trying it with the cheapie allen keys I have at work, they can be used either way around. The best fit was with the shorter end being used - this wouldnt have been possible with my good keys at home because they have a big plastic handle there.

apreading

Apologies for the rubbish pics, phone camera only at work.

seanorawe

Strangely mine look different underneath.Ill have to have another look when I get home

seanorawe

Got it eventually. I made the mistake of thinking the allen key should be going in further and having more of a positive fit. But the bolt does turn with very little effort

apreading

Good news! Glad you are sorted - its actually quick a simple, easy system once you have got the hang of it.

seanorawe

Cheers, I now just have to get used to holding on to two big cucumbers while I'm cycling.

apreading

Yeah - I dont think the shape is great and really wish they didnt have the lumps for the bleed ports near the base - would put up with more hassle bleeding for better shape when you consider how rarely you need to bleed them...

seanorawe

apreading wrote:

Yeah - I dont think the shape is great and really wish they didnt have the lumps for the bleed ports near the base - would put up with more hassle bleeding for better shape when you consider how rarely you need to bleed them...

I dont mind the lumps too much. Im just so used to Sram and their small dainty lever hoods.