what is needed to change from 20 gears - asap help

scottthurlow
scottthurlow Posts: 5
edited September 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
i have a saracen kili flyer

spec

Frame: Custom butted series 3 6066 tubeset, CNC Taper 1 1/8" to 1.5" headtube, 120mm travel running on 30mm main pivot cartridge bearings and 15mm NorglideTM linkage bushings / 12x142mm dropouts
Rear Shock: Fox Float CTD
Fork: RockShox Revelation RLT, tapered steerer, 130 mm travel
Headset: FSA 57
Handlebar: Saracen 318 alloy OS 740 mm wide, 15 mm rise, 9-degree bend
Brakes: Shimano M596 180/160mm rotors
Brake levers: Shimano M596
Front derailleur: Shimano SLX M676-D
Rear derailleur: Shimano SLX M670
Shifters: Shimano Deore M591 Rapid Fire
Cassette: Shimano HG62 10-speed cassette, 11-36T
Chain: Shimano HG-54
Bottom bracket: FSA BB-7000
Hubs: F: Formula sealed bearing black 32-hole / R: Shimano FH-M475 black 32-hole
Rims: Sun Inferno 25 650b black 32-hole
Tyres: Maxxis Ardent/Crossmark 650b x 2.1in
Saddle: Kore Fazer EX
Seatpost: Alloy micro-adjust, 30.9 mm
Stem: Saracen 318 6061 60-70 mm A-Head, 7-degree rise, 31.8 mm
Grips: Saracen lock-on, dual-density grip

what i want to know is what are all the parts i will need to change to an 11 speed set up.

thanks

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    New mech, shifter, cassette and chain.
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  • would you be able to link me to what stuff would work, I'm getting myself confused
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    An 11 speed cassette that is NOT a SRAM XD (so smallest cog an 11t).

    Rear mech and shifter, just match the brand (SRAM or Shimano)

    Any MTB 11 speed chain, but KMC are the preferred option.

    Your ten speed crank and front mech will be fine but the mech may require re-indexing.

    Why do you want to go 11 anyway?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • i want to get rid of the shifter, and i don't use both rings. and few friends have the 11 speed and i prefer it.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    So you want to convert to 1x11, not what you asked!

    In addition you will need a narrow wide chainring and suitable chainring bolts.

    Why not just go 1x10 with a suitable cassette or expander, a lit less expence.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • I've messaged you buddy, thanks
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    The Rookie wrote:
    suitable chainring bolts.

    Why not just go 1x10 with a suitable cassette or expander, a lit less expence.


    Agree with this - the conversion to 1*10 is a load cheaper in capital and running costs and you will be well impressed with the improvement to 1*10 anyway. I've done both and don't really see anything in the 1*11 that is notably different from the 1*10. You might want to consider a zee mech - was quite impressed with this because it is compact - but it is only 1*10 IIRC.
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

    jeez :roll:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The only benefit of 1x11 over 1x10 really is that the ratios are slightly more closely stacked so you are less likely to fall between gears - that is unless you go XD driver or one of the new 'dinner plate' cassettes to widen the range on 1x11.

    I rode for 2.5 years on 1x9 with just an 11-34, I've now converted to 1x10 with a Sunrace MX3 11:40, as I have rear suspension and am running a super short cage XTR mech I didn't want to push my luck with an 11:42, it copes with an 11:40 absolutely perfectly though.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.