"Get a grip" seatpost QR next to useless

BD1993
BD1993 Posts: 38
edited August 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
Only had my new Whyte 901 2 weeks or so and already the QR "get a grip" seatpost feature is playing up. Tightening it is a real issue as it is either too loose or too tight, all in the space of one rotations worth of tightening. Furthermore, when it does feel like the clamp is nice and tight( i.e when clamping it down a little effort is required to push through the resistance) my seat will still swivel and slide down a few inches when riding, particularly when going over consecutive small bumps. It's such a hindrance and distraction to my riding experience as I am having to pull over multiple times during a ride to readjust my seat height and the clamp tightness.

Has anyone else experienced such premature issues with this type of seatpost QR clamp? What other options do I have? Could someone please offer better alternatives to this.

Thanks, Ben.

Comments

  • philcubed
    philcubed Posts: 260
    Bike back to bike shop? Could be the tolerances on the seat tube and seatpost are a bit out, so the seatpost is slightly too narrow, and /or the seat tube is too wide. So any amount of tightening the seat clamp won't hold it.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    No idea what type of clamp it is, but I find cheap ones with long levers work well.

    Avoid Hope.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • JGTR
    JGTR Posts: 1,404
    Use carbon paste, more grip with less force.

    I had no problem with my Hope QR.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Make sure the cam and bush are clean, a bit of grit or grime can push the lever closing force up a lot making clamping the post all but impossible, trail side a bit of saliva can work wonders!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • BD1993
    BD1993 Posts: 38
    Think I may need to just get a better clamp, the hope clamp looks decent and has good reviews
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    BD1993 wrote:
    Think I may need to just get a better clamp, the hope clamp looks decent and has good reviews

    No, they're rubbish. Salsa QR clamps are much better.
    Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=13070235
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    This ^^^^^^^^^

    I have a few I've taken off bikes. If I have the right size you can have one free. They are rubbish. Look for an Outland one on Ebay. About a fiver, nice long handle.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    Make sure some genius hasn't left loads of grease on it. Use some dry kitchen roll to clean inside the seat tube carefully and also the seat post. While a little grease will stop the post binding too much means it won't stay in position unless you use a lot of force.

    Otherwise talk to the shop about it.
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    You say "it is either too loose or too tight, all in the space of one rotations worth of tightening".
    Does that mean you are only turning the lever?
    If so, try turning the knurled knob instead and then closing the lever. This will give you a much better chance of getting the correct tightness on the clamp.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    JBA wrote:
    You say "it is either too loose or too tight, all in the space of one rotations worth of tightening".
    Does that mean you are only turning the lever?
    If so, try turning the knurled knob instead and then closing the lever. This will give you a much better chance of getting the correct tightness on the clamp.


    You make a very good point here. Glaringly obvious but one that I took a couple of fails to work out! As for Hope QR - how can we possibly condemn something that has such nice colours?!
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

    jeez :roll:
  • BD1993
    BD1993 Posts: 38
    Sorry JBA I'm not quite sure what you mean?
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    With the lever open and pointing straight out (i.e. open it 90 degrees) you can increase the pressure by either:

    (a) turning the lever itself, or

    (b) turning the knurled knob at the other end of the clamp bolt.

    If you choose (a) then you have to turn it 360degrees so the clamp can be closed. That is a lot of adjustment.

    By choosing (b) you can turn the knob a small amount and then close the clamp to check the pressure. Repeat until the clamping force is correct.

    Open lever
    Turn knob by small amount
    Close lever
    Check clamping force
    Repeat until correct.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • BD1993
    BD1993 Posts: 38
    Okay thanks, I have tried option B countless times but for whatever reason the clamping system just will not hold the seat post. I have contacted the bike shop I purchased the bike from and have asked them to contact Whyte directly for a replacement clamp.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Have you made sure the cam interface is clean as I suggested earlier? Giant QR's are often a pain being impossible to get tight if there is crud in the cam.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • JGTR
    JGTR Posts: 1,404
    Or just get some carbon paste
  • turpinr
    turpinr Posts: 255
    FishFish wrote:
    JBA wrote:
    You say "it is either too loose or too tight, all in the space of one rotations worth of tightening".
    Does that mean you are only turning the lever?
    If so, try turning the knurled knob instead and then closing the lever. This will give you a much better chance of getting the correct tightness on the clamp.


    You make a very good point here. Glaringly obvious but one that I took a couple of fails to work out! As for Hope QR - how can we possibly condemn something that has such nice colours?!

    All the hope tech gear I have has been superb and the hubs look better than a Rolex.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The hubs are great, the brakes are now merely good (the rest having caught up) the QR's are pants.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • BD1993
    BD1993 Posts: 38
    I have contacted my local Whyte dealer and they have stated that Whyte have sent off a brand new seatpost and clamp. Fantastic customer service! Hopefully that will sort the problem. Thanks for your advice everyone.
  • turpinr
    turpinr Posts: 255
    The Rookie wrote:
    The hubs are great, the brakes are now merely good (the rest having caught up) the QR's are pants.

    I dont know what the new brakes are like but I've just sold a 10 year old rock lobster with hope minis on.
    Apart from changing the pads I didn't have to do anything, not even bleeding
    I love the headsets too and have had no problem with the much maligned head doctor.
    the QRs have been fine.

Categories