Every shop recommends I look at Cyclocross, but is a road bike better value?

SidKop

I've been to a few shops as I look to replace my old mountain bike and each one has tried to sell me a crossbike (so far Kony Jake or Focus Commuter looks the go). Now admitelly I would like to go on some trail paths (but at worst it's light gravel, but when I compare the specs of a Focus commuter/Kony jake with, for example the Kony Cayo AL it looks like the Cayo gives you better equipment (with maybe the expection of disc brakes) for the same price (both at sale in my local shop).

Are shops trying to sell these low end cross bikes as they've overstocked?
Are they really that much different than a road bike, that makes up for the apparent spec difference?
Are cross bikes the latest craze where they can sell slightly inferior bikes to beginners like me

cheers for any advice/info/thoughts/abuse

lostboysaint

No, they're trying to sell a better bike for your needs IF you're really looking to use it on trail paths.

mrfpb

The main difference is brakes - ygetting discs instead of rims breaks, then strength of frame and wheels. The strength comes with a weight penalty, a CX will weigh more than a straightforward road bike.

The more you spend the more the differences become significant. But even then, pro riders take expensive road bikes on the cobbles of northern europe every winter. Check out theis thread for details on adapting a road bike to this type of riding:

viewtopic.php?f=40007&t=13036895&hilit=Flanders

If you are riding trail paths, the main issue on a road bike will be suitable tyres at the right pressure, which are frankly a fairly cheap upgrade in the world of bike fettling. A road bike with wheels that will take 32mm tyres will be fine on a trail.

fenix

I'd probably tell you you want a CX bike too if that is what youve told them.

I can do trails on my 25mm wheel summer road bike - but they are better and more comfy on my winter CX bike with much fatter tyres on. With gravel you dont want narrow tyres.

If I had to go with just one bike - I'd go CX bike. With road tyres on its 99% as fast as the road bike and better off road.

You want big clearances and CX bikes give you that.

I'd not worry too much about brakes - I find old caliper ones fine.

SidKop

thanks for all the replies, the world of bikes have moved on since my last purchase. Just gonna try and test ride these two possibilities first....

Kona jake Aud$1200
http://2015.konaworld.com/jake.cfm

Focus Commuter Aud$1400
http://www.focus-bikes.com/au/en/bikes/ ... muter.html


...Might consider the next level up ( $1500 - $1800 ) if it's worth the extra $$$

GiantTCX SLR 2
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/tcx-slr-2

Kona Jake Snake
http://www.konaworld.com/jake_the_snake.cfm

Merida CX 500
http://www.merida.com.au/en_au/bikes/ro ... -5763.html

mrfpb

THis si where what I said about more expensive bikes being more specific applies.

It's wortht checking the gearing on the more expensive cross bikes, as they tend to be more cross specific with a 46/36 chainset as opposed to the popular compact 50/34 on the cheaper models.

Compact is generally more versatile than cross specific, which is intended for racing on muddy winter trails. You may find the cheaper bikes suit you better, and the extra cash can be put to better use on upgrades and accessories.

kajjal

I bought a Diverge as I wanted a road bike with hydraulic disc brakes which could take bigger tyres. It works well on and off road but will never replace a mountain bike on the rougher trails.

SidKop

mrfpb wrote:

THis si where what I said about more expensive bikes being more specific applies.

It's wortht checking the gearing on the more expensive cross bikes, as they tend to be more cross specific with a 46/36 chainset as opposed to the popular compact 50/34 on the cheaper models.

Compact is generally more versatile than cross specific, which is intended for racing on muddy winter trails. You may find the cheaper bikes suit you better, and the extra cash can be put to better use on upgrades and accessories.

Good point, the slightly cheaper bikes do have the 50-34 crankset as opposed to 46...thanks for the tip.