Gearing
Fatlad71
Posts: 15
Forgive my stupidness !
I am finding hills quite tough at the moment and it's quite clear if I shifted some timber they would be much easier but can gearing help me ? I currently have a 20 speed 12/27. I am seeing a lot of 21 speed 11/32 on newer bikes and I am wondering would this set up make much of a difference ?
I am finding hills quite tough at the moment and it's quite clear if I shifted some timber they would be much easier but can gearing help me ? I currently have a 20 speed 12/27. I am seeing a lot of 21 speed 11/32 on newer bikes and I am wondering would this set up make much of a difference ?
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Comments
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Yes absolutely, use the appropriate gearing for your fitness/ability. Although ultimately if your going to be in such a low gear your travelling at walking pace then maybe its time to get off and push. Depends on what you mean by hill.0
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What's at the front? If it's a "standard" 53/39 then your best port of call would be to swap that for a compact - 50/34.
You may have a mid-sized one - 36 being the smaller cog.
On the back...
You can get wider range 10 speed cassettes - 30-12's are available - just need to check that your mech can accomodate it - otherwise a 28-11 is pretty standard.
Now - if you're just after a new bike - then yes - a 21speed 32-11 will make a big difference ....0 -
Fatlad71 wrote:Forgive my stupidness !
I am finding hills quite tough at the moment and it's quite clear if I shifted some timber they would be much easier but can gearing help me ? I currently have a 20 speed 12/27. I am seeing a lot of 21 speed 11/32 on newer bikes and I am wondering would this set up make much of a difference ?
It depends on what's on the front!
If you're using 50/34 chainrings on the front with a 27 rear, and you swap to a 52/36 front and 32 rear there be some difference, but not as much as if you'd still got a 34 on the front.
Have a play here:
http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift.html
or here:
http://www.ritzelrechner.de/
eta - shifting the 'timber' is, of course, the solution to which diet is the key (but I suspect I'm telling you nothing new)"It must be true, it's on the internet" - Winston Churchill0 -
If you can locate one, you can possibly use an Ultegra 6700 10sp 12-30T cassette, the Tiagra 4600 12-30T cassette has been deleted. New Tiagra 4700 10sp cassettes are available in 12-28T, 11-32T and 11-34T, though as already mentioned you would need a long cage GS RD to use the two bigger cassettes. Annoyingly the 4600 STI's are not compatible with the 4700 derailleurs.0
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DJ58 wrote:If you can locate one, you can possibly use an Ultegra 6700 10sp 12-30T cassette, the Tiagra 4600 12-30T cassette has been deleted. New Tiagra 4700 10sp cassettes are available in 12-28T, 11-32T and 11-34T, though as already mentioned you would need a long cage GS RD to use the two bigger cassettes. Annoyingly the 4600 STI's are not compatible with the 4700 derailleurs.
Plenty of 4600 cassettes still available, get a 32t cassette and a 4600 GS derailleur (and a new chain). Should be able to get the lot for £50 or so and you'll climb up a wall with that gear.0 -
Thanks for the replys so far I have 50/34 on the front.0
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your options for climbing then are a smaller front chainring - which will probably mean swapping to a triple - or larger cassette - which may involve swapping the rear mech ..0
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Assuming your transmission components are Shimano 10sp, either 4600/5700/6700 series, the easiest solution is as ravey1981 suggests, is to use a RD 4601 or RD 5701 GS rear derailleur with the CS-HG500-10 11-32T cassette and new appropriately sized chain.0
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Gearing down is no bad idea, but 34x27 is a low gear and 34x32 is a very low gear. It's important to have some perspective on this - for most healthy people, 34x28 should be ample for most of what the UK has to offer, and usable for the most challenging gradients - but you can't go very much smaller on standard road equipment anyway. As well as fitness, there's a strong mental component to climbing tough hills on a bike, too.
In other words, by all means gear down, but what you really need to do is ride a lot more, and ride up a lot more hills.0 -
Simon Masterson wrote:Gearing down is no bad idea, but 34x27 is a low gear and 34x32 is a very low gear. It's important to have some perspective on this - for most healthy people, 34x28 should be ample for most of what the UK has to offer, and usable for the most challenging gradients - but you can't go very much smaller on standard road equipment anyway. As well as fitness, there's a strong mental component to climbing tough hills on a bike, too.
In other words, by all means gear down, but what you really need to do is ride a lot more, and ride up a lot more hills.
it doesn't matter if he's fit - if he's heavy it's going to be hard work to get up the hills - so 34x28 being "Ample" isn't ...
it is perfectly possible to go smaller - however it does mean you'll end up going slower (unless you spin quickly)- and there's a limit to that whilst staying upright!
You're right though - there's a strong mental component to climbing [tough] hills ...0 -
Slowbike wrote:Simon Masterson wrote:Gearing down is no bad idea, but 34x27 is a low gear and 34x32 is a very low gear. It's important to have some perspective on this - for most healthy people, 34x28 should be ample for most of what the UK has to offer, and usable for the most challenging gradients - but you can't go very much smaller on standard road equipment anyway. As well as fitness, there's a strong mental component to climbing tough hills on a bike, too.
In other words, by all means gear down, but what you really need to do is ride a lot more, and ride up a lot more hills.
it doesn't matter if he's fit - if he's heavy it's going to be hard work to get up the hills - so 34x28 being "Ample" isn't ...
And if he gets fit, chances are he won't be fat anymore. I can't imagine that he's too heavy for standard gearing, though.0