Replicating road bike position?
ajoten
Posts: 321
I am comfy on my road bike but don't feel great on my mtb - on the face of it it could be not being clipped in and having twice the weight to shift making it feel too "different".
Obviously the recommended riding position is different per discipline for handling reasons, but I have a longish off road ride on very easy terrain in the calendar, and I wonder if it's worth tweaking contact points to match my road bike.
(One reason I avoid riding the mtb is coz I struggle going uphill with the front end lifting up and would feel safer with more weight towards the front, but I don't know the best way of achieving that. Push saddle forward and longer stem?)
Obviously the recommended riding position is different per discipline for handling reasons, but I have a longish off road ride on very easy terrain in the calendar, and I wonder if it's worth tweaking contact points to match my road bike.
(One reason I avoid riding the mtb is coz I struggle going uphill with the front end lifting up and would feel safer with more weight towards the front, but I don't know the best way of achieving that. Push saddle forward and longer stem?)
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Alu is real.
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Comments
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Er it's not a road bike, but if you put skinny slicks on it, and drop bars, and rubbish brakes it might feel like a road bike with little wheels.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
Swapping your tyres to hybrid items might help and do you have locking shocks.
Ive found a big difference in locking my shocks while going up hill, less bouncing and lifting.
i would also say its down to practice as the style of riding is so different.0 -
As implied above, the positions are different plus with an MTB there is more need to move about compared to the road bike. I am often over the front wheel to keep it down on a steep climb (because I'm too stubborn to get off and push!) and get the occasional 'wheelie' if climbing over uneven ground. Equally I am hanging off the back, over the rear wheel, on a tricky drop. MTBs usually have QR seat post clamps so you can easily try some options while you are out. And if not being clipped in is an issue, get some SPDs - I am clipped in 99% of the time on the MTB and have only had the clipped-in-failed-to-release-in-time fall oooh, about hundreds of times. You get used to it.
My MTB and road bikes have very similar seat height, angle and fore/aft location but of course the frame geometry makes the experience quite different.Cube Reaction GTC Pro 29 for the lumpy stuff
Cannondale Synapse alloy with 'guards for the winter roads
Fuji Altamira 2.7 for the summer roads
Trek 830 Mountain Track frame turned into a gravel bike - for anywhere & everywhere0 -
What MTB?
If it has riser bars, fit flats, put the spacers above the stem and/or flip the stem, any or all will get the grips lower and nearer a road position. My commuter is a flat barred hybrid and I use all the above to get the front end low.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
If you ride clipped on your road bike then why not go clipped on the mountain bike?Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350
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Fear. Not keen on the technical stuff, me.Андрю
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Alu is real.0 -
Fear is why I clip in, unclipping is never a problem, coming off the pedals worries me more.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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