BB30 frame adapters

Maltess

Hello, I been looking for a new crankset for a BB30 frame. Some people says I won´t note any difference in performance if I use non BB30 cranks with adapters, and other people says that using adapters with a BB30 frame is like going backwards and that a BB30 frame should be used with BB30 cranks, who is right?

imposter2.0

There is no performance benefit to using bb30 anyway, or at least none that has any real world impact.

mfin

Many people with BB30 are best off running something like a Praxis BB30 adapter too, to get round creaking issues.

Which groupset are you running? Which crankset at the moment?

StillGoing

Use a proper adapter and not shims. Shims are crap, noisy and waste power. A proper BB adapter like the Praxis or Rotor ones allow you to use a different size crank without using shims.

darkhairedlord

philthy3 wrote:

Use a proper adapter and not shims. Shims are crap, noisy and waste power. A proper BB adapter like the Praxis or Rotor ones allow you to use a different size crank without using shims.

not sure how they waste power but ho-hum..

Maltess

mfin wrote:

Many people with BB30 are best off running something like a Praxis BB30 adapter too, to get round creaking issues.

Which groupset are you running? Which crankset at the moment?

I have a Cannondale Synapse carbon 2015 with a Shimano 105 group, BB30A frame and a FSA Gossamer 50/34 crankset. I want to install a good 53/39 crankset. I been riding only for a year and I am new to most of this stuff. I want to install the best option but I am a little lost.

Maltess

I am also interested to know why is better to have a BB30 crankset with a BB30 frame, some LBS dealers told me that getting a non BB30 crank was like going back to the past

Maltess

I been looking at the Rotor and Praxis BBs. The Praxis dont work with a BB30a frame, only with BB30, what about the Rotor?

StillGoing

darkhairedlord wrote:

philthy3 wrote:

Use a proper adapter and not shims. Shims are crap, noisy and waste power. A proper BB adapter like the Praxis or Rotor ones allow you to use a different size crank without using shims.

not sure how they waste power but ho-hum..

Simply because the shim is another contact point between the crank axle and the bearing. The shims slot into the bearing and axle in the shims far too easily to not move slightly under force.

imposter2.0

Maltess wrote:

I am also interested to know why is better to have a BB30 crankset with a BB30 frame, some LBS dealers told me that getting a non BB30 crank was like going back to the past

It is like going back to the past. But in the case of BB30, going back to the past is a good thing.

Lookyhere

Maltess wrote:

mfin wrote:

Many people with BB30 are best off running something like a Praxis BB30 adapter too, to get round creaking issues.

Which groupset are you running? Which crankset at the moment?

I have a Cannondale Synapse carbon 2015 with a Shimano 105 group, BB30A frame and a FSA Gossamer 50/34 crankset. I want to install a good 53/39 crankset. I been riding only for a year and I am new to most of this stuff. I want to install the best option but I am a little lost.

if your existing bearings are fine, then the wheels manufacturing delrin adaptors are great, used them in a Caad 10, there is no power loss, thats bollox.
the best long term (but permanent) option is a FSA pressfit threaded adaptor and then fit a HT2 BB and crank of choice (i fitted this to my GF's Dolan Ares SL) reason being is that rotor and praxis adaptors have also been known to break and to creak.

tbh if you ve no creaking issues, then fit a 36t inner and use a cassette with an 11t cog, a 50x 11 is higher than a 53x12 and the 36t will eliminate the large difference when dropping to the inner, than when using the 34t.

you ll save money too.

mfin

Maltess wrote:

I been looking at the Rotor and Praxis BBs. The Praxis dont work with a BB30a frame, only with BB30, what about the Rotor?

Ah, you're BB30a not BB30, wider and more limiting, there was a thread like this the other day, will see if I can find it.

edit: it appears you are involved in these recent threads.

Some mentions relevant here http://road.cc/content/forum/144878-sigh-replacement-bb30a-chainsets-cannondale

jscl

Using decent adapters shouldn't make any real impact at all.

Wheels Manufacturing make a BB with an integrated step-down for, say, Shimano 24 cranksets and it has external cups as part of the BB too. I think they're great BB's and takes away the need for adapters.

I feel a bit frustrated because I've just pitted a BB30 ceramic bearing Chris King BB to my build, but I've had to ruin it using CK adapters. It's not really ruined, but it just feels that way.

gaffer_slow

expensive, but a true bb30A->24 adapter

https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bb30a

mugensi

Lookyhere wrote:

...the best long term (but permanent) option is a FSA pressfit threaded adaptor and then fit a HT2 BB and crank of choice (i fitted this to my GF's Dolan Ares SL) reason being is that rotor and praxis adaptors have also been known to break and to creak.

I converted my Felt from 105/FSA Bb30 crankset to full 6800 groupset and wanted a 'permanent' solution for the BB and went with the FSA threaded sleeve and bonded it in place using Loctite 603 high strength retaining compound. Its been in place now for almost 2 years with zero issues. I have no intention of going back to BB30 and hence the reason I wanted a permanent solution. The FSA sleeve can be pressed out again if the need arises because even though its in there using a high strength compound, a headset bearing tool or similar will easily push it out.

Anonymous

MugenSi wrote:

Lookyhere wrote:

...the best long term (but permanent) option is a FSA pressfit threaded adaptor and then fit a HT2 BB and crank of choice (i fitted this to my GF's Dolan Ares SL) reason being is that rotor and praxis adaptors have also been known to break and to creak.

I converted my Felt from 105/FSA Bb30 crankset to full 6800 groupset and wanted a 'permanent' solution for the BB and went with the FSA threaded sleeve and bonded it in place using Loctite 603 high strength retaining compound. Its been in place now for almost 2 years with zero issues. I have no intention of going back to BB30 and hence the reason I wanted a permanent solution. The FSA sleeve can be pressed out again if the need arises because even though its in there using a high strength compound, a headset bearing tool or similar will easily push it out.

I did the same thing on my Bianchi Sempre Pro. I noticed that BB30 crank spindles were getting chewed by the bearings.Every new one I put in was scored along where the bearing sat. This is the point where the creaking is happening. I put in an FSA sleeve and its been silent ever since. Just be aware that in fitting anything like this you will invalidate any warranty on the frame.

MisterMuncher

From experience of removing one, there's nothing easy about it, and the proper tool is very spendy. Be sure you want to go that way.

StillGoing

I used the Rotor 4624 BB in my Merida frame, but they do a BB30 to 24 conversion BB too. Not a squeak or creak since I fitted the Rotor BB and ditched the FSA shims.

mugensi

MisterMuncher wrote:

From experience of removing one, there's nothing easy about it, and the proper tool is very spendy. Be sure you want to go that way.

I was in my LBS when the mechanic was removing an FSA sleeve from a Cannondale (he fitted it a year earlier with Loctite 603 also) He used a threaded bolt with a few large washers on one end (held on with smaller nuts) and a large hex socket (larger inner diameter than the OD of the sleeve) on the other. He used a ratchet wrench and screwed in the bolt and once the sleeve broke free from the bond he got a socket of similar diameter to the sleeve and tapped it through till the sleeve was out. He made the 'tool' himself.

I don't intend on ever removing mine but I have everything necessary in my workshop to make my own tool if I ever did need to do so.

MisterMuncher

Yes. So did I, and it really should be that simple, but it isn't always. In aluminium shells they can get properly stuck after a few years, oxidation or something. Just advising that it's not really supposed to be a reversible operation. There's a reason Cannondale warranty isn't affected by putting one in, but is invalidated by the removal.