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Swap Ultegra Di2 for Dura Ace Mechanical

Bullet1Bullet1 Posts: 161
edited July 2016 in Road general
I moved to Shimano Ultegra Di2 16 months ago from SRAM which I never had any problems with. I have however just been badly let down by Di2 on my cycling holiday and 5 days later and a new rear mech am
still not totally fixed.

So, is this a real one off or should I swap out to DA mechanical when I get home. Just really Don't want this to happen again. Been pleased with Di2, in particular the front mech.

I can currently pick a new DA group set for £870 and then sell the old Ultegra Di2 - guessing it won't cost too much!

Any thoughts - eBay advice? Sell each item separate? Shifters / brakes singular or as a pair?

Posts

  • meanredspidermeanredspider Posts: 12,337
    You haven't said what happened. If you've had a new rear mech and "it's still not totally fixed" I'm wondering what the problem can be.

    It's hard to say if it's a total one-off.

    Like everything, there are faults with products even manufactured to the highest standards. Then there are people involved in installing it.

    As I've written in the other thread, I run 3 bikes with Ultegra Di2, the oldest of which is 5 years old and runs a first gen version of external Ultegra Di2. It has been totally and utterly reliable despite considerable abuse - as have the other two bikes which run other configurations of Ultegra Di2.

    Since I work in consumer electronics, I have to say that even I'm amazed how reliable Di2 is. The fact that there are very few threads of this type is very telling.

    Anyhow, a quick description of exactly what went wrong would be useful. I'm sure you'll have no issue in selling your Di2 - I'd probably sell each component but beware selling components that you think may be faulty.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • robbo2011robbo2011 Posts: 1,017
    Bullet1,

    I think Di2 is basically a reliable system but once your confidence has been knocked, it can be hard to trust something fully again. It is also harder to troubleshoot and fix than mechanical so when you are out on holiday in a remote location, the last thing you need is a nagging worry in the back of your mind that something might go wrong and ruin your holiday. So I can see why you would like to get rid of it. but only you can decide really.

    As for selling, I have no idea, but I would think selling the working parts individually would realise more money.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    If you have always been happy with SRAM, why do you want to go to Dura Ace? Why not go to Red mechanical? I use D/A and Red and prefer Red - if I had the choice of a blank canvas group set purchase and knew what I liked then I wouldn't spend money elsewhere.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • morstarmorstar Posts: 4,663
    If you have always been happy with SRAM, why do you want to go to Dura Ace? Why not go to Red mechanical? I use D/A and Red and prefer Red - if I had the choice of a blank canvas group set purchase and knew what I liked then I wouldn't spend money elsewhere.
    This. I am at a lower end of componentry but run Sram rival on the road bike and Ultegra on the TT bike. Sram is just so much smoother in shifting than the clunky Ultegra shifts. I guess some would describe it as positive shifting but it sometimes feels industrial. No issue with setup, everything is indexed just fine.
  • Ben6899Ben6899 Posts: 8,961
    Campagnolo, surely?

    :D
    Ben

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  • fenixfenix Posts: 5,437
    Flying with the bike ? Did you take the rear mech off ? Did it get knocked ?

    Maybe its even the hanger ?

    We need more details.
  • meanredspidermeanredspider Posts: 12,337
    The good thing about wired electronic shifting is that it tends to work or not work. It is, also (despite what people think), not that hard to diagnose because of it. The shifters, for instance, perform more than one function - so if the RD isn't shifting but the charge light works, you can rule out a fault with the shifter or the shifter wire. A little logic gets you a long way.

    Mechanical shifting is more analogue - if you're getting a mis-shift, there can be multiple places in that mechanical system causing the fault from a dragging cable to a bent hanger.

    Screwing up a 5-day holiday because of Di2 can only really mean that there wasn't access to the necessary parts.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Add to the fact that Ultegra Di2 is the fugliest groupset ever, ditch it.

    Any version of Dura Ace is great you won't regret it
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • Bullet1Bullet1 Posts: 161
    Thanks for your thoughts.......So - I have driven to France with the bike on a rear mounted carrier so highly doubtful it's been knocked. About 400 cycling miles ago I took a spill which resulted in a bent (and replaced) hanger and knocked rear mech but all ok since until now.

    The rear mech simply stopped dead - no shifting. Took it to a bike shop who diagnosed it was the mech which was dead and said it would take 4 days to sort - order the part and book it in - tried a couple of other shapes to no avail.....Wiggle.fr gave me next day delivery so fitted myself. Worked perfectly for the first mile or so then only worked intermittently, and still does? Prior to it not working the bike was left outside in a torrential downpour but surely this should affect it?

    Perhaps I haven't set it up correctly but given no bike shop for 3 days it was the best I could.

    It was a whole new bike when I chose to go with Ultegra and thought Ultegra Di2 was sound saving £300 (i think) over Red 22 or DA mechanical.

    Matt sums it up - once confidence is gone....not qualified to fiddle with electrics but happy to tinker with mechanical.

    Thanks

    Got a 360 mile, 3 day event coming up in Oct and can't afford it to fail so now is the the time to decide.
  • Bullet1Bullet1 Posts: 161
    Campag....yes it's a Pinarello but...... :-)
  • cougiecougie Posts: 22,512
    Loose connection somewhere. If you've swapped the mech out and it's still not working then it wasn't the mech.

    Take all the cables out and reinstall?
  • meanredspidermeanredspider Posts: 12,337
    The fear of electronics is irrational. No-one is asking anybody to use a meter or a scope on a PCBA to diagnose these issues. As above, you need to ensure the components are properly plugged together. The eTube plugs take real effort to push in. Track the connections between each component (RD to junction box to front junction to shifter) and make sure they are properly plugged. There's a reasonable chance that the LBS you used unplugged one or more of these - the ones at the shifters are particularly awkward to plug in depending upon how much slack has been left in the wire.

    I understand why you lost confidence but Di2 is about calm rational diagnosis.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • bobloboblo Posts: 360
    So: 'swap my non functioning, mid range groupset for your high end working DA and you get to pay/sort out any issues'. Great, where do I sign? ;-)
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