Rockshox SID XX World Cup-Convert Full Sprint to Sprint?
rw4l
Posts: 3
Hi,
My 1st post on BR...
I have a new Rockshox SID XX World Cup w/ Full Sprint remote lockout switch installed on my brand new Felt Nine FRD hardtail frame. Steerer tube was already cut so there's little hope of returning the item without a significant restocking fee. Upon installation, I found that I could not get the lockout switch to "depress" (I.e., I tried pushing the switch/button but it wouldn't budge). Upon further review and inquiry, I found that this problem was due to the fact that the full sprint lockout only worked with full suspension setups. Indeed, there are two ports on the switch. It makes sense that the switch won't function without the 2nd active hydraulic line attached (though I don't fully understand the mechanics of it all-I assume it has to do with the total hydraulic pressure inside the switch assembly). Therefore, the fork is "stuck" in trail mode - which isn't a bad situation given the two available options. I can still ride and get good benefit, but in climbing situations or where I'd prefer to be sprinting out of the saddle, I'm certainly losing some efficiency...
Hopefully that's a good enough back story. I'm looking for the simplest and most cost effective solution. It is possible to simply buy a different switch (like a "Sprint" remote lockout instead of the "Full Sprint") and swap out the switches? Do I need to buy a full conversion kit? Do I need a totally different fork? Do I need to consult with my local professional, or is it an easy do-at-home fix?
Thanks in advance for any helpful advice. Glad to be on this forum.
RG
My 1st post on BR...
I have a new Rockshox SID XX World Cup w/ Full Sprint remote lockout switch installed on my brand new Felt Nine FRD hardtail frame. Steerer tube was already cut so there's little hope of returning the item without a significant restocking fee. Upon installation, I found that I could not get the lockout switch to "depress" (I.e., I tried pushing the switch/button but it wouldn't budge). Upon further review and inquiry, I found that this problem was due to the fact that the full sprint lockout only worked with full suspension setups. Indeed, there are two ports on the switch. It makes sense that the switch won't function without the 2nd active hydraulic line attached (though I don't fully understand the mechanics of it all-I assume it has to do with the total hydraulic pressure inside the switch assembly). Therefore, the fork is "stuck" in trail mode - which isn't a bad situation given the two available options. I can still ride and get good benefit, but in climbing situations or where I'd prefer to be sprinting out of the saddle, I'm certainly losing some efficiency...
Hopefully that's a good enough back story. I'm looking for the simplest and most cost effective solution. It is possible to simply buy a different switch (like a "Sprint" remote lockout instead of the "Full Sprint") and swap out the switches? Do I need to buy a full conversion kit? Do I need a totally different fork? Do I need to consult with my local professional, or is it an easy do-at-home fix?
Thanks in advance for any helpful advice. Glad to be on this forum.
RG
0
Comments
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Yes, you just need the single port switch.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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The Rookie wrote:Yes, you just need the single port switch.
Thanks! Does the swap require re-bleeding the system (the manual said it came pre-bled)? Or can I just swap and ride?0 -
It will of course need bleeding.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
