1x11 V 2x10?

dogboy73
dogboy73 Posts: 440
edited July 2016 in MTB general
Apologies if this has been covered before (I'm sure it would have been). But still on 3x9 here & thinking which way to go for a new bike so doing lots of research. Of course a test ride would be preferable. But I get the impression I'd need to do a few rides to really appreciate the benefits & disadvantages of each system. Not really possible when you're on a bike shop test bike.

I have been really drawn to 1x11 for some time now. No left shifter, no front derailleur, one less cable, slight weight saving etc. But am I thinking about this wrong? Looking into the downside I'm reading about a backwards pedalling issue in lowest gear, where gears are dropped. Chain drop being worse than expected - do you need a chain guide? Very poor chain line in lowest & highest gears, resulting in extremely noisy drive train. Poor max speed & not so good climbing gear.

Should I just abandon the idea of 1x11 & look at 2x10 instrad? 1x11 seems to be appearing increasingly on new bikes & is obviously the trend. But the more budget end, where I'm looking, usually still have 2x10 or even 3x9 I guess mainly due to parts prices. No doubt this will change but which way is best to go?

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Been on 1x for about 3 years now, initially 1x9 with just an 11-34 (challenges in longer climbs on longer rides) just converted to 1x10 using a Suntour MS3 cassette, just swapped my 32 for a 34 chainring, still have a lowest gear about '1 1/2' gears lower than before and a slightly taller top gear.

    You can get issues back pedaling with any gear setup, just 1x amplifies it if you are in the two extreme gears, never found it an issue for the quarter turn you may need just to put the pedal up for setting off.

    Very happy with 1x and wouldn't now go back.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • DCR00
    DCR00 Posts: 2,160
    The Rookie wrote:
    Been on 1x for about 3 years now, initially 1x9 with just an 11-34 (challenges in longer climbs on longer rides) just converted to 1x10 using a Suntour MS3 cassette, just swapped my 32 for a 34 chainring, still have a lowest gear about '1 1/2' gears lower than before and a slightly taller top gear.

    You can get issues back pedaling with any gear setup, just 1x amplifies it if you are in the two extreme gears, never found it an issue for the quarter turn you may need just to put the pedal up for setting off.

    Very happy with 1x and wouldn't now go back.

    Same here. Been using 1x for years and wouldn't go back. Currently 1x10 and that gets me up and down pretty much anything.

    I don't use the larger sprockets, just an 11-36 with a 32 up front, although im swapping out to 34 now.
  • bigmitch41
    bigmitch41 Posts: 685
    I went 1x about 18months ago and never looked back, 32 front chainring and a 42 big ring on the back, all XT.
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  • Russ L
    Russ L Posts: 3
    I've just changed from 3x9 to a new bike with 2x10 for cross country riding, no problems for me with the range of gears available so far.
  • Giraffoto
    Giraffoto Posts: 2,078
    I looked into this while I was still on 2x10, and worked out that I would get the same range with 1x11 as I would if I just didn't use the very lowest and very highest gears on the 2x10. I now have 1x10 which works rather nicely, but some time in the future I'll make the jump to 1x11.
    So my recommendation is: start at 1x10 or 1x11 unless you do a lot of climbing.
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  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    I only went to 1x10 as my front mech stopped working and realised I only really used the middle chain ring on my rides.

    I don't miss the other two chain rings other than on rides into work where I could do with larger than 34t but it works and is less hassle to keep maintained.

    Once the cassette n chain wear out I will change to a Sunrace mx3 cassette though for the 11-42t range as 11-36 is currently a bit small on some climbs I've done but manageable for the time being.

    So if I was going to be buying a new bike, I'd be looking for a 1x11 setup but you be best off trying them out for just going for either setup.
  • AlShack
    AlShack Posts: 38
    Next time you're out, make a note of what gears you actually use; so what combinations of front/rear cogs you use. Then go home, do some maths and work out what ratios you use in the real world. Have a look around at 2x and 1x setups to see what those ratio ranges they have and therefore which would work for you.

    Then chuck all the calculations in the bin and go out & buy a 1x11 - it's all you'll need ;)
  • dogboy73
    dogboy73 Posts: 440
    Thanks for everyone's replies. Lots of good advice, definitely swinging towards the 1x11 idea, which is good news as I really like the idea of 1x11 so it's encouraging to hear a lot of positive things about it.
    AlShack wrote:
    Next time you're out, make a note of what gears you actually use; so what combinations of front/rear cogs you use. Then go home, do some maths and work out what ratios you use in the real world. Have a look around at 2x and 1x setups to see what those ratio ranges they have and therefore which would work for you.

    Then chuck all the calculations in the bin and go out & buy a 1x11 - it's all you'll need ;)

    I've been thinking about this. For trail riding it's nearly always the middle ring of my current 3x9. I only really use the big ring on roads getting to the trails, but there's enough duplication I can ride comfortably on the big or middle ring. I only really use the granny ring for long, steep climbs. This is more due to a lack of fitness than anything. If I was a bit fitter I'd probably be using small ring + cog 7 (second from lowest) to maintain reasonable speed. In the lowest gear I'm going so slow it's sometimes hard to keep the bike upright! I could walk faster! 1x11 should encourage fitness or not bothering to ride up long, steep climbs at all!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Granny and 3rd gear at the rear (22:26) is a taller gear than a 1x11 with a 34t chainring, so 1x11 would be fine!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Don B
    Don B Posts: 122
    Don't think too long on it, i reckon people over think it. I went to 1x11 from 2x10, using Sram GX rear mech, shifter and chain with an XT Rear cassette.

    I initially had a Shimano chain which snapped after one ride, so changed to a SRAM one which has mostly got rid of the chain coming off when back pedalling.

    Also, I managed to sell the old 2x10 parts on eBay for more than the 1x11 bits cost me
  • glynrs2
    glynrs2 Posts: 4,143
    If you want to compare your current set-up to what you want to change to then use the online calculator at gear-calculator.com.
    First put in your existing setup of chain rings and cassette (sprockets), set your tyre size (please note this is in mm, so or example a 27.5 x 2.2 is 57-584), display in teeth and set units to mph. Use you avaerage trail cadence. Then select compare two set-ups and enter new chain ring size and cassettes and you can directly compare the two.
  • Angus Young
    Angus Young Posts: 3,063
    Definitely 1x.

    I just love not having to devote any brain space to wondering where I am on the front rings. Sounds like such a small thing, you probably think it's nothing, something you do without thinking. But once that second shifter is gone you realise there's this little thing you have to keep active in the back of your mind. I'd never go back to more than 1x. Less rings, nicer ride.
    All the gear, no idea and loving the smell of jealousy in the morning.
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  • Briggo
    Briggo Posts: 3,537
    Where do you ride?

    For me in West Yorkshire (and Dales, Wales, Lakes, Scotland) 1x11 is perfectly fine, I do a lot of climbing on a ride and with a 30 chainring with a 42 out back its enough to winch me up the steepest of rideable ascents.

    The above is on my trail bike, for XC/Marathon racing on my other bike I have a 2x11 setup simply for the extra gear range as has been mentioned for top speed which 1x11 can lack if you've got a chainring for climbing rather than speed as I do.

    If you're located in a less hilly area I'd be tempted to go with a 2x10 simply for the top speed as you might find you could be wanting more gears.