A wheel dilema

thomasmorris
thomasmorris Posts: 373
edited July 2016 in Road buying advice
Recently broke a spoke on my cheap stock wheels which came on my ribble (Rodi Pr Whls Airline 5 Clinchers). I was touring with family, and the wheel dropped out of true enough for the tyre to rub the mud guard. I had to get a train home.

I could replace the spoke, but wheels aren't really worth much to begin with. Plus, I don't think the wheelset is really up to carrying loads (I'm only 62kg, but carrying 8 kg non-suspended weight on a rack). I got them as stock and used them training / commuting / club runs over winter, I've really got what I wanted from them.

I really would like a tubeless rim brake wheel with sufficient spoke count to carry weight / a single spoke breaking not being such an issue. Wide rims aren't really needed as the max tyre I can fit with guards is 25mm. Can anyone make build recommendation along these lines?

The other option, is to transfer my ultegra 6800 from my race bike. These are tubeless and rim brake. The only issue is low spoke count... but they're much better wheels so braking a spoke should be less likely. I could then spend my cash on a pair of wheels for the race bike, priorities here being weight and aero (but still clinchers). Any recommendations here?

Comments

  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    1. Get a spoke = 70kg isn't really much at al - and all wheels break spokes from time to time.
    2. Can you true wheels ? If theres a lot of spokes then you can get by usually with one broken.
  • thomasmorris
    thomasmorris Posts: 373
    I wouldn't build my own wheels, but have changed spokes before and trued wheels. I know to stick another spoke in would be cheapest option, however, my feeling are this:
      1: I only got the wheels as they were the cheapest option on the bike build (cycle to work). I always intended to replace them. 2: They weigh 2.2 kg... I know weight isn't of up most importance on a commuter / touring bike, but still. 3: The hubs are rubbish, sealing terrible, need re-greasing fairly often. 4: I'd like to go tubeless on this bike anyway, which these wheels won't support. 5: Worth £100, to start with, I've done 4000 mile in predominately wet gritty weather with them. Are they worth spending money / time on? 6: The front rim is fairly worn, one spoke has broke at the back; could be bad luck, or could be a sign that more are about to go. Is it not time to accept that I got a decent winter run out of the stock wheels, and change to something more reliable before my next trip?
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    I'm with you on getting new wheels ... I can see your dilema though ..

    I think the decision on which wheels to replace will depend on your intended use.
    Commuting can quickly rack up the miles - and wear - but (if you're like me) you tend to ride lighter and easier - so wheels tend to last quite some time.
    Touring can be tough on wheels - you add X or XXkg load - which is a load more to stop when braking too - plus if it's somewhere nice you can quite often go off track to reach a nice stop.

    If you're predominantly commuting and your touring efforts are minimal then you may be able to get away with the Ultegra wheels - depends on how much braking you need to do on your commute - it's the wet/grit that will kill them (rims) assuming the road surface is relatively smooth - otherwise you could pop a spoke in a hole ...

    However, if you're into touring - more speficically, self supported touring - then I'd consider some high spoke count wheels with easy to source spares (and carry a few spokes too).
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    You could take a look at the RR440 rims per my footer, a near perfect rim for your needs, if they were a smidge wider they'd be perfect. An asymmetric rear rim is a big bonus as it makes the spoke tension more even and prolongs spoke life. These rims in a 32 hole with Miche hubs would be a good wheel IMO.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • thomasmorris
    thomasmorris Posts: 373
    I've found stans alpha 340 on shimano 105.... It says 159 for a pair, that's got to be wrong though surely?

    Or go to cycle-clinic and get miche with archetype? 24/28 or 28/32? Are they tubeless though?
    http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/road-rim-brake-wheelsets/products/h-plus-son-archtype-miche-primato-wheelset-black

    If they are t tubeless what about these in 24/28 or 28/32?
    http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/road-rim-brake-wheelsets/products/handbuilt-borg22-tubeless-compatible-clincher-wheelset
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    I've found stans alpha 340 on shimano 105.... It says 159 for a pair, that's got to be wrong though surely?

    Or go to cycle-clinic and get miche with archetype? 24/28 or 28/32? Are they tubeless though?
    http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/road-rim-brake-wheelsets/products/h-plus-son-archtype-miche-primato-wheelset-black

    If they are t tubeless what about these in 24/28 or 28/32?
    http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/road-rim-brake-wheelsets/products/handbuilt-borg22-tubeless-compatible-clincher-wheelset

    I have a set of the Archetype/Miche wheels from Cycleclinic in a 28/32 build. Can't fault them. Though not specifically designed to run tubeless there are several on here who have successfully converted the Archetypes to run tubeless. However if you want tubeless then go for a tubeless specific rim like the Borg22
  • thomasmorris
    thomasmorris Posts: 373
    Anyone any experience / thoughts about the stans alpha 340 on shimano 105. 32 spokes front and rear. Probably overkill fir the front but will they be ok for the rear? Seem a steel at £ 157