Fitting headset cap - proving tricky

Unamed2.0
Unamed2.0 Posts: 41
edited July 2016 in Workshop
Hi. I am trying to fit a headset cap onto my steerer tube. It's an 1 1/8" Ritchey WCS drop-in one. My issue is that there is a rubber seal running around the inside of the cap which is preventing me from slotting the cap down the steerer tube (and thus end up covering the upper bearing and washer etc). It is a 1 1/8" inch steerer tube (also Ritchey) so it shouldn't be an issue of compatibility.

Anybody have any thoughts or suggestions that I can try at home? Lubrication of any type?! Thanks for any thoughts ...

Comments

  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    You could try a smear of grease, see if that helps. You'd then need to remove any remaining grease from the steerer before attaching the stem.

    It's probably a good thing; the seal should stop the upper bearing filling with water.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Unamed2.0 wrote:
    Hi. I am trying to fit a headset cap onto my steerer tube. It's an 1 1/8" Ritchey WCS drop-in one. My issue is that there is a rubber seal running around the inside of the cap which is preventing me from slotting the cap down the steerer tube (and thus end up covering the upper bearing and washer etc). It is a 1 1/8" inch steerer tube (also Ritchey) so it shouldn't be an issue of compatibility.

    Anybody have any thoughts or suggestions that I can try at home? Lubrication of any type?! Thanks for any thoughts ...

    I have the same headset on one of my bikes. From reading your problem, I take it the issue is the sleeve that sits on top of the head tube is not covering the top bearing correctly ( this is how it reads to me) If you have placed in the metal washer above the bearing then try refitting without it as its not needed. Cover the bearing well with grease without excessively doing so and place the cover back on. If it looks a better fit slide the conical shaped piece and any spacers etc as well as the stem. Place the actual top cap on and tighen it up and it should all compress and cover any gaps before doing up the stem bolts.
  • Unamed2.0
    Unamed2.0 Posts: 41
    Thanks a lot for the replies.

    Yes, sorry - I can see how I might not have been clear. I can't even begin to slide the conical-shaped sleeve onto the steerer tube, as it gets stuck as soon as it hits this rubber seal on the inside of the sleeve i.e. right at the top of the steerer. Perhaps I am being a little too cautious and I need to push it a lot harder, but it is very very tight - so much so it feels like it needs some kind of installation tool to hammer it down (which can't be right, no?).
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I have a Ritchey WCS headset on my CR1-SL (came supplied in the box with the frameset) and I don't remember anything needing forcing / lubricating.

    3 years since I assembled it though...

    Curious now to see if my headset cover has any kind of sealing ring in there
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Is this a new frameset never built or are you just replacing the headset? If its new I have had to sand down steerer tubes before to make headsets fit. Most recent one - also on a scott bike - I had to sand down the tube to get the bottom race far enough down the tube to the actual fork. A bit of wet and dry rubbed down in a twisting circular motion may remove enough to get the seal to slip over. Just wear a dust mask when sanding.
  • Unamed2.0
    Unamed2.0 Posts: 41
    All new. Indeed, I had to use a tool to get the fork crown race seated at the bottom of the steerer. Hadn't thought of having to sand it down, perhaps that is it. Might try with a spot of grease first though.

    Thanks again for the replies.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    FFS don't sand anything down. I suspect you are being too delicate. It's a push-fit over the steerer. Just give it a push - a firm push if necessary. Also, giving the crown race a whack to fit over the fork crown is not unusual either. I have an old main bearing from a Rotax 406 which I use for this purpose. Never fails.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Imposter wrote:
    FFS don't sand anything down. I suspect you are being too delicate. It's a push-fit over the steerer. Just give it a push - a firm push if necessary. Also, giving the crown race a whack to fit over the fork crown is not unusual either. I have an old main bearing from a Rotax 406 which I use for this purpose. Never fails.

    Nothing at all wrong with a light sanding down. I have done it upteen times to remove slight imperfections on a fork steerer tube. And I have also seen snapped tubes caused be a heavy whack to get a crown race fitted. There is absolutely nothing wrong in removing a small amount of surface area. Most are over engineered to get them the right diameter gor the head tube. Its not made to a critical limit where a bit less it would fail.
  • dgunthor
    dgunthor Posts: 644
    little bit of grease will help, had the same issue the other day. could also tap it on gently with a plastic mallet
  • Unamed2.0
    Unamed2.0 Posts: 41
    Just wanted to follow up, if anyone reads this in the future. In the end a little grease smeared round the inside of the headset cover, coupled with a bit more of an assertive approach (by pulling it towards me, with the fork dropouts pressing into my abdomen) and it slotted over. Thanks again to all who replied.

Categories