Brake spring rubbing front tyre

DasBike
DasBike Posts: 22
edited July 2016 in Workshop
I'm having some issues with front brake spring rubbing the tyre, especially when under braking.
Brakes are Shimano 105. The bit I'm talking about is in the image below, the bottom left part of the coil in the picture rubs on the tyre. I'm not entirely sure what adjustments I need to make to brakes to resolve this.
Anyone able to provide some advice? Much appreciated.

maxresdefault.jpg

Comments

  • sandyballs
    sandyballs Posts: 577
    What size tyres are you running and how low are your brake pads?

    Can you upload a pic of your setup?
  • DasBike
    DasBike Posts: 22
    Sandyballs wrote:
    What size tyres are you running and how low are your brake pads?

    Can you upload a pic of your setup?

    Tyres are 700x25 and brakes don't seem to be running though. I have new ones to swap out if that is the issue. I took some photos:
    IMG_4103_1.jpg
    IMG_4104_1.jpg
    IMG_4107_1.jpg
  • wishitwasallflat
    wishitwasallflat Posts: 2,927
    With those calipers you don't have enough clearance for those tyres, ergo they rub. Don't think you can do anything other than run smaller tyres, sorry.
  • DasBike
    DasBike Posts: 22
    wishitwasallflat wrote:
    With those calipers you don't have enough clearance for those tyres, ergo they rub. Don't think you can do anything other than run smaller tyres, sorry.

    It's odd that its only just started to be a problem but I've been cycling with this setup for about 8 months now. The back runs absolutely fine on same tyres.
  • giropaul
    giropaul Posts: 414
    The answer may be then that the brake blocks have worn down, so it he calipers come further in. Front blocks wear much faster than rears. New blocks, and keeping them newish might sort it.
    Having said that, the tyres are pretty agricultural for a road bike and will need more clearance than normal. I would worry about such an aggressive tread picking up small stones and jamming under the fork crown with such tight clearances.
  • DasBike
    DasBike Posts: 22
    giropaul wrote:
    The answer may be then that the brake blocks have worn down, so it he calipers come further in. Front blocks wear much faster than rears. New blocks, and keeping them newish might sort it.
    Having said that, the tyres are pretty agricultural for a road bike and will need more clearance than normal. I would worry about such an aggressive tread picking up small stones and jamming under the fork crown with such tight clearances.

    Thanks, will try out new brake blocks. The tyres are schwalbe marathon plus as I commute in London and don't want to deal with regular punctures. As I mentioned above, its only lately that this setup has resulted in some rubbing.
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    giropaul wrote:
    The answer may be then that the brake blocks have worn down, so it he calipers come further in.

    First picture shows front brake pad and it looks fine.

    As has been said, there is not enough clearance for that tyre.
    Simples.
  • trailflow
    trailflow Posts: 1,311
    You could go mountain biking with those tyres
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Marathon plus have extra protection in so they are very high.
  • DasBike
    DasBike Posts: 22
    cougie wrote:
    Marathon plus have extra protection in so they are very high.

    Any suggestions for a different puncture proof tyre that may be smaller? Thanks
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    If you're just commuting and don't want punctures then why not try solid tyres ... ?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    DasBike wrote:
    cougie wrote:
    Marathon plus have extra protection in so they are very high.

    Any suggestions for a different puncture proof tyre that may be smaller? Thanks

    I've always run 25mm GP 4 Seasons on my winter / wet weather bike and found them to be pretty puncture resistant. Not cheap though.
  • dee4life2005
    dee4life2005 Posts: 773
    Unless you deliberately shift the caliper off-centre and use the adustment screw to square it up. This might allow the spring to sit a mm or two higher, but new blocks might be the best bet.

    On a side note, looking at the tread of the tyres it looks like they should be mounted the other way round, anyone else think this ... should be a rotation arrow on the sidewall - wont cause issues if they are mounted the wrong way round just marginally slow you down. I've done it myself a few times, easily done when mounting a tyre quickly.
    http://app.strava.com/athletes/307297
  • DasBike
    DasBike Posts: 22
    keef66 wrote:
    DasBike wrote:
    cougie wrote:
    Marathon plus have extra protection in so they are very high.

    Any suggestions for a different puncture proof tyre that may be smaller? Thanks

    I've always run 25mm GP 4 Seasons on my winter / wet weather bike and found them to be pretty puncture resistant. Not cheap though.
    dee4life2005 wrote:
    Unless you deliberately shift the caliper off-centre and use the adustment screw to square it up. This might allow the spring to sit a mm or two higher, but new blocks might be the best bet.

    On a side note, looking at the tread of the tyres it looks like they should be mounted the other way round, anyone else think this ... should be a rotation arrow on the sidewall - wont cause issues if they are mounted the wrong way round just marginally slow you down. I've done it myself a few times, easily done when mounting a tyre quickly.

    I played around with the caliper and managed to stop the rubbing but I think I'll get some GP 4 seasons and run them instead. Hopefully a better mix of puncture resistance while not being too chunky/heavy.

    Also yes I notice I've put the tyres on wrong way around. It was quite the battle getting them on so didn't fancy changing them around once I'd noticed!
  • webboo
    webboo Posts: 6,087
    DasBike wrote:

    Also yes I notice I've put the tyres on wrong way around. It was quite the battle getting them on so didn't fancy changing them around once I'd noticed!
    Why don't you take the wheel out then the quick release out. Turn the wheel round and put the quick release back refit your wheel and your tyre tread will be the right way.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Webboo wrote:
    DasBike wrote:

    Also yes I notice I've put the tyres on wrong way around. It was quite the battle getting them on so didn't fancy changing them around once I'd noticed!
    Why don't you take the wheel out then the quick release out. Turn the wheel round and put the quick release back refit your wheel and your tyre tread will be the right way.
    *

    * don't try this with the rear wheel...
  • DasBike
    DasBike Posts: 22
    Webboo wrote:
    DasBike wrote:

    Also yes I notice I've put the tyres on wrong way around. It was quite the battle getting them on so didn't fancy changing them around once I'd noticed!
    Why don't you take the wheel out then the quick release out. Turn the wheel round and put the quick release back refit your wheel and your tyre tread will be the right way.

    Could do, though I have ordered GP 4 seasons so will just change out the tyre when that comes (and make sure I put it on the right way).
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    DasBike wrote:
    Webboo wrote:
    DasBike wrote:

    Also yes I notice I've put the tyres on wrong way around. It was quite the battle getting them on so didn't fancy changing them around once I'd noticed!
    Why don't you take the wheel out then the quick release out. Turn the wheel round and put the quick release back refit your wheel and your tyre tread will be the right way.

    Could do, though I have ordered GP 4 seasons so will just change out the tyre when that comes (and make sure I put it on the right way).

    No significant tread on a GP 4 seasons so it wouldn't matter if it went on back to front. The purists might want the pretty patterns pointing the right way, but they make bugger all difference in the real world

Categories