1x10 Chain Issue

alex100a
alex100a Posts: 84
edited July 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
Following some good advice on the buying section of this forum I eventually managed to get my hands on a used 2012 Giant Trance (my first full suss).

The bike has recently been converted to 1x10 with a 32 Narrow Wide Chainring but during my first ride out this week (back road and byeways) the chain jumped when I hit a pot hole! I'm after some advice on how to over come this happening especially on more extreme conditions. Do I need to get a chain guide? if so can anyone recommend a reasonably priced one?

Also would changing the rear derailleur, which has a long cage, to a medium cage help?

Thanks

Alex

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Does your rear mech have a clutch? These can help keep the chain on over rough stuff, but for the best security a bottom and top chain retaining mechanism is best.
  • alex100a
    alex100a Posts: 84
    No the rear mech does not have a clutch hence I was half thinking of changing it at some point to either an XT or SLX version with one.
  • Relaxitscool
    Relaxitscool Posts: 103
    A clutched rear mech will almost certainly solve this. But also check for chain wear, if its stretched, it may not be engaging with the teeth correctly causing it to jump.

    Regards

    Rob
  • kickaxe
    kickaxe Posts: 446
    Also make sure the chain isn't much too long, usually you can shorten it after going to a single ring up front.
    -Cube Acid 29" 2013
    -A new Giant Trance 3 2015!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Did you shorten the chain, is it a narrow wide ring?

    I do t have a clutched mech and never lost a chain when using a correctly sized chain and a narrow wide
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Dave_P1
    Dave_P1 Posts: 565
    A new rear mech would certainly help to reduce a dropped chain but a front chain guard is probably a cheaper alternative.
  • kickaxe
    kickaxe Posts: 446
    Dave_P1 wrote:
    A new rear mech would certainly help to reduce a dropped chain but a front chain guard is probably a cheaper alternative.

    Exept that most chain guides cost more than a good clutch derailleur

    Derailleur: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... -prod83162

    Chainguide: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/e-th ... prod132652
    -Cube Acid 29" 2013
    -A new Giant Trance 3 2015!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    A chain guide doesn't have to cost £100! A bash guard and deda dog fang for circa £15-20 would do it, or the superstar chain guide (with some care) for about the same.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • kickaxe
    kickaxe Posts: 446
    The Rookie wrote:
    A chain guide doesn't have to cost £100! A bash guard and deda dog fang for circa £15-20 would do it, or the superstar chain guide (with some care) for about the same.

    Can you get me the links for that? Sounds like a good deal tbh
    -Cube Acid 29" 2013
    -A new Giant Trance 3 2015!
  • alex100a
    alex100a Posts: 84
    Thanks for all the replies to my original post and apologies for the delay in responding.

    The guy I bought the bike off had only just had it converted to 1x10 at his local bike shop and I dangerously assumed it had been done properly but upon closer inspection it appears not!

    Firstly the new chain (Shimano HG54), which is directional, has been installed the wrong way around!

    Then I started investigating chain lengths and reckon I could do with taking out 1 if not 2 links out.

    The below photos show the rear mech in the big cog with the rear shock removed. The first assumes 1 link is removed and the 2nd 1 links.

    fm7tyx.jpg

    25h0rkm.jpg

    I would appreciate some advice before I get the chain tool out.
  • ade555
    ade555 Posts: 216
    I would say the 2nd pic that is if your shock is compressed, but also your pulleys on rear mech looks worn.
  • alex100a
    alex100a Posts: 84
    The pics are with the shock removed (compressed).

    I'm thinking of removing 2 links as you suggest.

    As for the pulleys they are worm and another reason I think I might get a new rear mech (instead of just replacing pulleys) with a medium cage and clutch, which should also help things.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Chain looks much to long, the mech should be pulled almost horizontal in big big (allow for chain growth although its very low on the Trance. I suspect whoever converted it didn't shorten the chain at all.

    Free fix to your issues I suspect!

    Dog fang goes on the seat tube and prevents the chain coming off on the inside - you need the same size as for a front mech clamp. Then any bash guard on the outside - if the correct length chain doesn't fix it.
    http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-pa ... i-dog-fang
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • kinioo
    kinioo Posts: 776
    The Rookie wrote:
    Did you shorten the chain, is it a narrow wide ring?

    I do t have a clutched mech and never lost a chain when using a correctly sized chain and a narrow wide

    I second that.

    My rear mech doesn't have clutch (its XT shadow std), I run 1 x 10 + N/W ring...never, ever have had any issue with it !!

    I would check chain, and N/W ring first.

    Chris
  • ade555
    ade555 Posts: 216
    It may sound silly but I would also make sure that your chain is fitted correctly on NW ring, also you mention they fitted the chain wrong way round, what do you mean by that?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Some chains are directional.

    I'm not sure how you can fit something incorrectly on a NW ring though. What do you mean?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • alex100a
    alex100a Posts: 84
    The chain is a Shimano HG54 which is apparently directional and according to the instructions it the wrong way around.

    Not sure how to check the NW. Everything looks ok to me.
  • kickaxe
    kickaxe Posts: 446
    Make sure that the wider link is around a wider tooth, and vice versa
    -Cube Acid 29" 2013
    -A new Giant Trance 3 2015!
  • ade555
    ade555 Posts: 216
    cooldad wrote:
    Some chains are directional.

    I'm not sure how you can fit something incorrectly on a NW ring though. What do you mean?


    What Kickaxe said wide link on wide tooth.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    It's kind of impossible to do it any other way - the chain won't fit.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I've just realised in your photo that the chain was still being sized, read how to do it properly, it shouldn't be routed through the mech at all.

    Some 10 and 11 speeds chains are 'directional' (actually they aren't they are handed but unless you have a left had drive train it amounts to the same thing), the side plates on the frame side have a slight bulge to help shifting by engaging the next bigger gear on the cassette.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.