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gears

crematorcremator Posts: 99
edited July 2016 in Road beginners
H all ok so looked at loads of clips read about gears but can't get my head around how to adjust gears
Its the front ones when I go onto the large cog at front and smallest cog at back the chain rubes on the front cage all of the other gears are fine shifters are 105s and gears are FSA any help please thank U dawn

Posts

  • iPeteiPete Posts: 6,076
    I find videos easiest to follow, give these a try. You just need to understand the High/Low screws and adjust accordingly:

    front
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea03ChN-7Vg
    rear
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bbk5RcH0bbQ
  • crematorcremator Posts: 99
    Thank U yes had a look I don't think I have barrel ajustment on the cable its a cannondale. cadd 8
  • Jerry185Jerry185 Posts: 143
    My advice: never mess with gears, take it to the LBS (local bike shop)
  • CiBCiB Posts: 6,098
    Jerry185 wrote:
    My advice: never mess with gears, take it to the LBS (local bike shop)
    Really? That's like taking your guitar back to the shop to have it tuned. Exactly like it.

    Gear adjustment is one of those things you do while pointing out to the kids where their football is. It's not some dark art that requires paying someone else to do it.

    Loads of advice is out there but essentially it's a case of making sure that each mech moves only where it should move; no more no less, and that the cable tension allows the right amount of movement per change.
  • CiBCiB Posts: 6,098
    cremator wrote:
    H all ok so looked at loads of clips read about gears but can't get my head around how to adjust gears
    Its the front ones when I go onto the large cog at front and smallest cog at back the chain rubes on the front cage all of the other gears are fine shifters are 105s and gears are FSA any help please thank U dawn
    So in the smallest rear / big front combo the chain rubs on the front mech? If so the front mech (FD) just needs to move out a bit to allow enough clearance for the chain; try successive quarter turns of the upper limit screw on the front mech to give the clearance, and stop before you go so far that the chain drops off the outside. Give it a quarter turn; go & try it. Rpt until it works.

    Also check that the mech is parallel to the rings or very slightly toed in on the trailing edge, but just a whisker.
  • Jerry185Jerry185 Posts: 143
    No need to be rude, CiB. I was offering an opinion and you were insulting and derogatory. Perhaps that says more about you
  • bungle73bungle73 Posts: 748
    Jerry185 wrote:
    No need to be rude, CiB. I was offering an opinion and you were insulting and derogatory. Perhaps that says more about you
    Um, no they weren't....................

    For the record I completely agree with them.

    Adjusting gears is easy, once you know how to do it. No need to waste time and money taking it to a shop to be done.
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Jerry185 wrote:
    No need to be rude, CiB. I was offering an opinion and you were insulting and derogatory. Perhaps that says more about you

    Cripes! If you think that's rude you'd better leave the internet well alone!

    And your advice wasn't exactly helpful to the OP, who has come on here asking how to do it.

    You may have an irrational fear of mucking up the gears on your bike, possibly because you've tried and failed in the past, but there's no reason to put the fear of god into somebody else who is keen to have a go.

    It's a bike, not the International Space Station...
  • CiBCiB Posts: 6,098
    Jerry185 wrote:
    No need to be rude, CiB. I was offering an opinion and you were insulting and derogatory. Perhaps that says more about you
    That wasn't rude. If I'd been rude you'd have known. :lol:

    It's ruder to suggest to anyone that wants to learn that it's always better to give up, and rely on paying someone else to do it. Adjusting gears is a trivial task, once you suss how easy it actually is.
  • crematorcremator Posts: 99
    Bloody hell now what have I done lol I do think every one should no how to maintain a bike you can't keep taking it to bike shop every time your gears are not right .ok so when I turn the screw should the chain be on small ring back large front I will give it ago sorry for any trouble it seems to be rubbing on the front part of the cage not the back bit
  • CiBCiB Posts: 6,098
    Chain on big ring front, smallest rear, adjust upper limit screw so that it moves out a bit to give clearance. Do it a bit at a time, then check with a little ride. When it's right drop to the small ring / largest rear cog and repeat in the opposite direction with the lower limit screw. It's easer to go for a ride with a screwdriver and keep stopping to tweak it as riding under load at speed is more real-world than circling round a lawn or a side street.

    You want to end up with it changing up and down smoothly & rapidly without struggling to engage as it changes, but also not dropping off the crank or BB side because there's too much clearance.

    As said earlier, you want the FD & RD to be able to move far enough without hitting the spokes or pushing the chain too far, with the cable tension allowing the right amount of movement per change. Look at what's happening and what you're trying to achieve, rather than replicating steps by rote. It's easy once you know why to do it instead of just what to do.
  • crematorcremator Posts: 99
    edited June 2016
    ok thank you so much will try later ok tried it but still rubbing tightened screw clock wise and anti clockwise but cage dose not move
  • CiBCiB Posts: 6,098
    No probs. Hope it wasn't too rude.

    ;)
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    In my experience FD ajustment is easier if you have a barrel adjuster. On my CR1 the stops on the downtube don't take adjusters so I've fitted some inline ones near the shifters. That means I can fine tune as I ride!
  • CiBCiB Posts: 6,098
    I always found barrels tended to wind back in to min length over time, so once the cable had settled do it at the clamp end on the big ring / smaller cog. The RD's own adjuster gave enough fine adjustment usually.
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Heard the Jagwire ones accused of that but the Shimano ones I have seem to stay put. Only really use the one for the FD, but thought it would look odd if one side had an adjuster and the other didn't...
  • crematorcremator Posts: 99
    no not rude at all find it funny :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
  • crematorcremator Posts: 99
    ok think I have mastered that part now what about if they don't change smoothly and crisply
  • CiBCiB Posts: 6,098
    I'd suggest look at it and wonder why it's not doing it crisply and smoothly. Too much cable slack before it starts to move? Running out of gear change movement before the chain fully engages? Mech or cable not moving smoothly (lube issue)? Is it aligned properly? Did it work before and if s what's different?

    Personally I'd undo the cable from the mech, make sure the lever is at the start of its movement and start again with nicely lubed inners and the mech resting at the small cog / ring end.
  • crematorcremator Posts: 99
    All done thank you so much for all your advice
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