gears
cremator
Posts: 99
H all ok so looked at loads of clips read about gears but can't get my head around how to adjust gears
Its the front ones when I go onto the large cog at front and smallest cog at back the chain rubes on the front cage all of the other gears are fine shifters are 105s and gears are FSA any help please thank U dawn
Its the front ones when I go onto the large cog at front and smallest cog at back the chain rubes on the front cage all of the other gears are fine shifters are 105s and gears are FSA any help please thank U dawn
0
Posts
front
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea03ChN-7Vg
rear
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bbk5RcH0bbQ
Gear adjustment is one of those things you do while pointing out to the kids where their football is. It's not some dark art that requires paying someone else to do it.
Loads of advice is out there but essentially it's a case of making sure that each mech moves only where it should move; no more no less, and that the cable tension allows the right amount of movement per change.
Also check that the mech is parallel to the rings or very slightly toed in on the trailing edge, but just a whisker.
For the record I completely agree with them.
Adjusting gears is easy, once you know how to do it. No need to waste time and money taking it to a shop to be done.
Cripes! If you think that's rude you'd better leave the internet well alone!
And your advice wasn't exactly helpful to the OP, who has come on here asking how to do it.
You may have an irrational fear of mucking up the gears on your bike, possibly because you've tried and failed in the past, but there's no reason to put the fear of god into somebody else who is keen to have a go.
It's a bike, not the International Space Station...
It's ruder to suggest to anyone that wants to learn that it's always better to give up, and rely on paying someone else to do it. Adjusting gears is a trivial task, once you suss how easy it actually is.
You want to end up with it changing up and down smoothly & rapidly without struggling to engage as it changes, but also not dropping off the crank or BB side because there's too much clearance.
As said earlier, you want the FD & RD to be able to move far enough without hitting the spokes or pushing the chain too far, with the cable tension allowing the right amount of movement per change. Look at what's happening and what you're trying to achieve, rather than replicating steps by rote. It's easy once you know why to do it instead of just what to do.
Personally I'd undo the cable from the mech, make sure the lever is at the start of its movement and start again with nicely lubed inners and the mech resting at the small cog / ring end.